An Insider's Guide to Thollon-les-Mémises

Everything you need to know about Thollon-les-Mémises — a family-friendly Alpine resort above Lake Geneva*, near Évian-les-Bains.

Where to stay and eat, skiing, summer hiking, getting there and those extraordinary lake views.

Table of Contents

Thollon-les-Mémises at a Glance

Where: French Alps, above Lake Geneva, near Évian-les-Bains
Altitude: Around 1,000 m in the village; ski area rises to just under 2,000
Ski season: December-March
Best for: Families with young children, beginner-intermediate skiers, hikers and relaxed mountain-and-lake holidays
Distance to lake/beach: 10 minutes by car
Village layout: Chez-Cachat – Thollon village – Le Nouy – Chez les Aires – La Station (walkable in under 10 minutes) with Lajoux, Le Maravent and Grand Roc further out.
Nearby resorts: Morzine, Châtel, Avoriaz (Portes du Soleil), Bernex, Abondance

All Lakes Need a Balcony

Ask most seasoned alpine skiers where Thollon-les-Mémises is and you’ll probably get a blank stare.

This small, unpretentious French village sits high above Lake Geneva — sometimes quite literally in the clouds.

When we lived here, the cloud would occasionally roll over the balcony rail and drift into the sitting room; on other days, the clouds lay far below the village, leaving Thollon in brilliant sunshine beneath azure-blue skies.

So why a balcony?

Because Thollon sits tucked beneath the beautiful Balcon des Mémises — a mountain ridge that forms a natural balcony high above Lake Geneva.

In the early evening, the ridge glows a soft dusky pink, catching the last rays of the sun as it sets over the lake.

It’s here that you’ll find some of the area’s best walking trails in summer and the ski slopes of Thollon-les-Mémises in winter.

On most days the mountain air is so clear that the view stretches far across Lake Geneva and into Switzerland beyond.

Why Visit Thollon-les-Mémises

It’s close to the Portes du Soleil resorts like Morzine and Châtel, with their glossy magazine spreads and eye-watering lift pass prices.

But Thollon is different.

Over the years, it’s gained a reputation as an affordable, easy-going place that’s ideal for families with young children, beginner to intermediate skiers, and summer hikers — or simply anyone who loves the romance of the mountains.

What sets it apart from most other places is its dual personality.

In summer the gondola can sweep you up the mountainside to explore Thollon’s hiking trails, try a bit of paragliding or simply enjoy the spectacular views across Lake Geneva.

Or, if you prefer to swim, sunbathe and hide out in a beach bar, the lakeside is only a 10-minute drive down the hill.

There are also excellent golf courses nearby for those who need a complete break.

In winter you can swap swimsuits for skis.

From December to March, Thollon becomes a bustling little family ski resort, with gentle slopes, hot chocolates and plenty of tartiflette.

It’s this combination, together with Thollon’s easy-going friendliness that creates the magic. This is what keeps people coming back here year after year.

And if you’re wondering where to stay, where to eat, how to get here or when to visit, I’ve covered all of that below.

By the way…. did I mention the views?

Getting Your Bearings: Thollon Village and Its Hamlets

Thollon-les-Mémises isn’t really one compact village – it’s a scattering of hamlets strung along the road as it climbs from Lake Geneva into the hills above Évian-les-Bains.

Driving up from Évian, you pass through Chez-Cachat, before you come to the original village of Thollon itself, home to the old village church, the Mairie — the village town hall — the post office and the local primary school.

The old village was, and still is, a working agricultural community rather than a resort.

Continue through Le Nouy, where you’ll find Thollon’s two village hotels — the Bon Séjour and the Bellevue — plus a busy boulangerie, and the Sherpa, the village’s only supermarket.

There’s no longer a cash machine in Thollon, so if you need cash it’s worth stopping on the way.

The nearest ATMs are in Saint-Paul-en-Chablais and at the Super U in Vinzier.

Next is Chez les Aires, and finally you arrive at what everyone means when they casually say Thollon.

This is the purpose-built resort hub, officially La Station, sitting at 1,000 m, where the gondola, ski school and rental shops, and most of the accommodation and restaurants are all within a few minutes’ walk of each other.

La Station: The Heart of Thollon-les-Mémises Resort

Compact is the word for La Station. You can walk end to end in under five minutes, which is a massive plus for anyone travelling with young children.

There’s no shuttle bus to wrangle a buggy onto, no sprawling resort to navigate after a long ski day.

Best of all, when your little munchkin says ‘Mum, can you carry my skis?’ you can quite honestly reply ‘no, carry your own — it’s only a two-minute walk back to the apartment.’

What a result!

Everything radiates out from the base of the Télécabine des Mémises, which carries visitors up to between 1600 – 1900 metres.

Around the station, you’ll find the ESF ski school desk, ski-hire shops and a cluster of restaurants and bars.

What Thollon is Really Like

Don’t come expecting a chocolate-box Alpine centre with cobbled lanes — it’s really not that at all.

Thollon’s charm is more about the welcome and that extraordinary view over the lake than architectural drama.

First and foremost, it’s a family-friendly ski resort. Its superpower is that it’s also a great base for summer holidays too, particularly if you have a car.

Apart from driving down to the beaches by the lake, you can easily take day trips to Annecy or Yvoire for example, or into Switzerland.

Visit Montreux and Château de Chillon, see where Freddy Mercury recorded some of his best music, or loiter along the terraces of Lavaux’s finest vineyards.

It’s the views, however, that do most of the work here — and they do it sensationally well.

Getting to Thollon-les-Mémises

Getting to Evian-les-Bains, the main town that sits on the shoreline below Thollon, is the easy part: the final climb up to Thollon takes a little more planning and travelling on from Evian without a car becomes more challenging.

Like many rural communities the world over, Thollon is not brilliantly served by public transport.

There are buses running during the busy seasons, but they run on a rather laid-back, ‘maybe… maybe not’ sort of timetable, and not always at the most convenient hours.

If you don’t have a car, a taxi is often the simplest way to reach Thollon.

But first, let’s look at how to get to Evian.

By plane

Geneva is the obvious airport, roughly 70-90 minutes away by car and well served from the UK and across Europe.

You can take the train directly from the airport into Geneva, change platforms at Cornavin station and catch the Leman Express to Evian for less than 20 euros.

Occasionally you’ll also have to change at Annemasse, from one platform to another, before reaching Evian.

Before we had our own car, we sometimes hired a car at the airport.

Geneva airport is quite quirky as part is in Switzerland and part in France (please don’t ask me why).

The trick is usually to rent your car on the French side as it works out much cheaper.

By train and boat

This is my favourite way to arrive, although more difficult if you have a lot of luggage and no-one to carry it for you … I can hear my husband rolling his eyes.

Fly or take the train to Geneva and then travel along the Swiss shore to Lausanne before crossing Lake Geneva by ferry to Evian.

The journey is easy enough, but the ferry timetable varies through the day so it’s worth checking before you travel.

Why’s this my favourite? The view of Mont Blanc from the train window, the little metro down to the lakeside, the outdoor chess on the quayside — but most of all, for the view of the mountains of the Chablais rising above Evian as you cross the lake.

See if you can spot the sun glinting on windows in Thollon from the ferry.

If you’re travelling with heavy luggage, though, this is definitely the scenic option rather than the easiest one.

By bus

Yes well, I suppose we have to talk about the buses.

There is a seasonal EVA’D shuttle bus linking Evian-les-Bains and Publier with Thollon during the school holidays, stopping at several points through the village and resort.

It’s useful, but I’d still check the current timetable before building a tight travel plan around it. If the times don’t work, a taxi from Evian is usually the simplest alternative.

By car

This is how most visitors actually arrive, and it’s by far the easiest option.

Having a car also gives you the freedom to explore further afield, whether that’s a day trip to Chatel, Morzine or Avoriaz in the Porte du Soleil, or across the Swiss border to Montreux or Lavaux.

The climb from Evian winds up the hillside, towards the Plateau du Gavot, where the famous Evian water comes from, and through a couple of little hamlets, until the resort proper appears.

If you’re coming in winter, hire a car fitted with winter tyres.

If you’re bringing your own car, make sure it’s properly equipped for mountain conditions; snow chains can also be useful after heavy snowfall.

I’m all for a belt and braces approach to planning a trip.

My top tip: keep an eye out for wildlife on the road from Evian to Thollon.

We’ve previously swerved wild boar, ducked a herd of deer and hurdled a snake on our way up the mountain. Well, my husband did anyway… I was on the floor with my eyes shut at the time.

Parking

Compared with the parking scrums you’ll find in bigger-name resorts, Thollon’s a relief.

There’s a large free car park near the foot of the gondola, ideal for day visitors or self-caterers loading and unloading ski gear, plus further spaces around the tourist office and La Station.

Most self-catering apartments and chalets in the Station include parking as standard, but it’s worth confirming this when you book since spots can still fill up during the busiest school holidays.

If you stay down in the historic village of Thollon, where the two hotels are, rather than in La Station, you’ll need a car for almost everything.

There’s little within easy walking distance down there — and I can already hear that ‘can you carry my skis’ question. The answer’s still… ‘no’.

Where to Eat in Thollon-les-Memises: Restaurants and Bars

Food in Thollon-les-Memises is more hearty and Savoyard than fussy – tartiflette, fondue, and beef flambeed at the table are winter favourites, while fish from Lake Geneva appears more often in the summer months.

Most of Thollon’s restaurants cluster around La Station so a night out rarely involves more than a short walk.

Les Balcons du Lac – mountain restaurant with a view

At the top of the gondola, Les Balcons du Lac is the standout – a newer mountain-top restaurant with arguably one of the best dining views in the Alps, sweeping across Lake Geneva towards Switzerland.

There’s both a self-service section and a proper sit-down restaurant, plus a side balcony cleverly angled over the beginner slopes so parents can eat while keeping an eye on the kids below.

The XV – friendly dining in La Station

Run by chef/host Arnaud, a passionate rugby fan, the XV has a reputation for good food and a friendly welcoming atmosphere. In the summer the outdoor terrace is a delight.

The Carnotzet – A family favourite

Also on the main street, this restaurant has recently reopened, and is in my opinion, fast becoming one of the best in the village.

This unpretentious little restaurant has always been great for families and serves a selection of burgers and child friendly dishes.

I had the lamb shank when I was there recently and it was a melt-in-the-mouth delicious.

The Tibetan – Savoyard and a sunny terrace

Long known locally as the old St Nicolas restaurant before a change of ownership, this restaurant is a firm favourite for classic Savoyard cooking.

The highlight on it’s winter menu is probably the Potence, a flambeed beef dish that has more than a touch of the theatrical about it.

It also has a suntrap terrace that fills quickly – book a day or two ahead once the resort gets busy.

The Ourson – après-ski, burgers and tartiflette

This little bar/restaurant, sandwiched between the cinema and the XV, is owned and run by Stephanie. In summer there’s a terrace that catches the evening sun and in winter this is a popular apres-ski bar.

The menu has a fine selection of delicious burgers and tartiflette style dishes, all at reasonable prices.

Scoubidous – pizzas, pool and a lively atmosphere

Scoubi’s is tucked away in the gallery next to the XV.

With it’s large wall mounted TV, it’s central pool table and a couple of gaming machines, it’s particularly popular with teenagers —and anyone hoping to relive their youth.

The pizzas are, in my opinion, among the best in the village and very reasonably priced.

Hôtel Bon Séjour – traditional family-run dining

Hôtel Bon Séjour, on the road between the old village and La Station, has been in the same family since 1933.

The restaurant serves generous, traditional French set menus in a pleasingly old-fashioned dining room.

Popular with locals, it’s particularly good with families, and children are genuinely welcome.

Where to Stay in Thollon-les-Mémises

Accommodation in Thollon-les-Mémises is mostly warm, family-run and unfussy rather than polished and five-star.

Don’t expect private spas or infinity pools – expect the kind of prices that feel like a throwback to how Alpine holidays used to be.

Hotels

The two classic hotel choices are Hôtel Bon Séjour and Hôtel Bellevue, both traditional, family-run places on the road between the old village and La Station.

Hôtel Bellevue has an indoor pool and sauna, plus a garden for enjoying an apéro after a busy day.

Neither is about luxury: both are more about a warm welcome, generous breakfasts and easy access to the both the old village and the slopes.

As they sit below La Station, a car is useful for getting around.

Self-catering apartments and chalets

This is where most visiting families end up, and the Station has a healthy spread of apartment blocks and privately let chalets, many an easy walk from the gondola.

Self-catering suits Thollon’s relaxed character well, and it’s often possible to find good-value family apartments here, even during peak school holidays, for considerably less than in the bigger Portes du Soleil resorts.

Standards can vary quite a bit, so it’s worth looking closely at recent photos and reviews before you book.

Some apartments and chalets are beautifully kept and very comfortable; others can feel rather dated, and a few may not be as well looked after as you’d hoped.

Check the size carefully too — 18, 20 or even 25 square metres can feel surprisingly small once you add luggage, ski gear and a family.

Camping and camper vans

There isn’t a dedicated campsite in Thollon itself, although there are a handful of camper-van spaces in the central car park at La Station.

Contact the tourist office to book or for more details.

For summer trips especially, there are campsites elsewhere in the Lake Geneva area, which can make a low-cost base for hiking and lake days.

Wherever you stay, book within the Station itself if easy walking access to lifts, shops and restaurants matters to you – accommodation in the older village or lower hamlets will mean a car for almost every outing.

Practical Tips for Families

A handful of last things worth knowing before you pack:

Money:
Cards are accepted almost everywhere, but it’s still worth carrying some cash for smaller mountain restaurants, market stalls and emergencies.

There is no longer a cash machine in Thollon itself, so pick some up before you arrive or in a nearby village.

Ski hire:
Rental shops sit close to the gondola base; booking ahead over Christmas and February half-term is sensible, as it would be anywhere in the Alps.

Language:
English is spoken by most tourist-facing businesses though a few French phrases will go a long way in the smaller, family-run places.

Sun, not altitude:
At around 1,000 metres in the village and just under 2,000 at the top of the gondola, Thollon isn’t especially high by Alpine standards — but the mountain sun can be deceptively strong.

Pack sunscreen in every season, including those hazy winter days.

One last thing:
Check opening dates if you’re visiting in the shoulder seasons.

The lifts and several restaurants close between seasons, so it worth confirming with the tourist office (info@thollonlesmemises.com) before planning an April or October trip.

When to Visit Thollon-les-Memises

Thollon isn’t a one-season resort and knowing what each part of the year offers will help you time your trip right — whether that’s lake days in July and August, skiing with small children, or a quiet spring walk with the crowds gone.

Thollon in summer

Although I love Thollon in the winter, I think it may actually be at its best in summer rather than in January.

It’s a proper two season resort and the lake plays as large a role in summer as the mountain does in winter, with warm, reliably sunny stretches and beaches just a short drive below the village.

Summer hiking and mountain views

The gondola keeps running through the summer months, taking hikers, mountain bikers and sightseers up to the Pas du Léman – a viewing platform with amazing views across the lake to the Jura and into Switzerland.

It’s a quick way reach the Balcon des Mémises without having to climb the long zig-zag path up the mountain side.

There’s also the restaurant, the Balcons du Lac, up top if you fancy lunch with a view.

From the summit, trails fan out toward the peaks including the Pic des Mémises, Pic Boré and Pointe de la Pétalous, ranging from easy family ambles to more serious ridge routes.

Walk across the Crête de Mémises you may come across the horses that roam freely on the alpages in summer.

Mountain biking in Thollon is limited but nearby Bernex offers everything from gentle family trails to steeper runs back down for daredevil riders.

Lake days and things to do nearby

Then there’s the lake itself.

Down around Evian and along the shoreline you’ve got swimming beaches, sailing and water sports, all close enough that a morning in the mountains and an afternoon by the lake is a genuinely realistic plan for the same day.

That combination – real Alps, real lake, both within easy reach – is what keeps regular visitors coming back summer after summer.

Spring and Autumn: The Quiet Season

Thollon doesn’t pretend to run flat out all year round, and that’s part of the appeal.

In spring, roughly April to June, and autumn, September to November, things wind down considerably – lifts, some restaurants and a fair amount of accommodation reduce their hours or close for a well earned rest.

Time a visit for when things are open though, and you get Thollon at its most unguarded – locals going about ordinary life, terrace tables free of any queue, that same lake view minus the crowds.

Spring skiing can stretch on surprisingly late thanks to those north facing slopes and the new snow machines.

While early autumn is glorious walking territory, the summer heat gone and the trees turning gold.

Just double check opening dates before committing to a shoulder season trip – a quick check with the tourist office beats arriving to find the gondola locked.

One word of caution about autumn: hunting is part of rural life here, and during the season you may hear gunshots around the woods and surrounding countryside.

When we lived in Thollon we found it unwise to walk in the woods during hunting season. Although officially restricted to certain days (including weekends), in practice gunshots could be heard at any time.

Dogs and game can also stray onto the roads, so it’s worth taking extra care when driving. It was one of those aspects of mountain life we found hardest to get used to.

Thollon in Winter

Let’s be honest: nobody comes to Thollon chasing the extreme skiing of Chamonix or the glamour of Val d’Isere.

What Thollon has instead is around 50 km of gentle, largely north-facing pistes spread between roughly 1370 and 1975 metres, linked by around a dozen lifts.

It’s ideal for beginners, intermediates and families who’d rather have a relaxed day on the snow than a white-knuckle one.

The longest descent is around 2 kilometres on the Vieilles Cases run – undoubtedly one of the most picturesque runs anywhere in the Alps.

Because the pistes face largely north, the snow tends to hold up well into spring, often better than in some smaller, lower resorts nearby.

A major investment in snowmaking also helps to maintain cover through the season.

A black run that once ran down into the village has now closed.

Ski Pass prices and value

What genuinely sets Thollon apart is the value.

An adult day pass for the 2025/2026 is €30, considerably less than you’ll pay in many of the bigger-name Alpine resorts nearby.

Multi-day passes bring the daily cost down further, with reduced rates for children and seniors.

Prices change season to season, so check the current tariff before you travel.

The resort has been singled out in the past as one of the best value ski destinations in France, it’s also recently joined the Magic Pass scheme, opening access to a much wider network of affordable Swiss and French mountains on the same ticket.

Is Thollon good for families?

For families, this is where the resort earns its reputation:

The ESF ski school is based right by the gondola and runs lessons for children and adults at all levels, making Thollon a particularly easy place for families learning to ski together.

There is also childcare close to the tourist office and car park for children aged 6 months to 6 years old. Care is available by the hour, half-day or full week.

Children must be fully vaccinated, and you’ll need to bring the vaccination certificates with you if you’re intending to use the creche.

Opening dates and booking arrangements vary, so check the current details before you travel.

There’s a dedicated sledging and snow play area close to the beginner slopes, positioned so parents can watch from a nearby terrace rather than trekking across the resort.

The mountain-top restaurant even has a balcony angled toward the nursery slopes for exactly this reason.

Snowshoeing and other winter activities

Beyond downhill skiing, there are snowshoeing routes across the Crete des Memises as well as tracks shared by walkers, dogs and sledgers.

If anyone in your group wants bigger terrain for a day, the wider Portes du Soleil area is an easy drive from Thollon.

That makes the village a relaxed, good-value base, with the option of heading further afield whenever you fancy a change.

Thollon isn’t glamorous. It’s a small, friendly mountain village with extraordinary views, easy access to Lake Geneva, gentle skiing, summer walking and the sort of place where everything is close enough to be manageable.

It has its quirks, and it isn’t perfect, but perhaps that’s why people become so attached to it.