You’ve arrived at Lake Geneva. The sun’s glinting on the rippling surface, its vast expanse stretching out before you. Villages and towns dot the shoreline; vineyards sweep down to the water’s edge.
Maybe you’re curious to see villas and gardens hidden from the road, or little secluded beaches that the locals keep to themselves. Perhaps you want to explore small ports that once sheltered fishing boats from storms.
On a hot summer’s day, when the lake is like a mirror, the only breeze to be found is out on the water. Sooner or later, most people want to get afloat.
We could, of course, build a raft from the driftwood that washes down from the mountains. But quite honestly, there are much more stylish ways to get afloat.
Quick Guide: Best Ways to Get on Lake Geneva
– Best for views & atmosphere: CGN paddle steamers
– Best for history & charm: The Savoie
– Best for independence: Small power boats
– Best for budget & ease: Ferries
– Best for families: Pedalos and paddleboards
CGN Paddle Steamers
The Swiss registered CGN Belle Epoque fleet operates eight paddle-steamers from around 1900 on Lake Geneva, and they’re stunning.
Their sleek white hulls glide effortlessly along the lake, linking the main waterside towns on both the French and Swiss shores. Their giant paddles churn the water like a witch’s cauldron.
As the paddle-steamer approaches the jetty there’s a long blast on the horn. Clouds of white steam billow from the funnels and the Swiss flag flutters proudly from its stern.
Children jostle on the jetty, hoping to be first along the wobbly gangplank and grab the best deckchairs on the upper decks. Day-trippers head to the Belle Epoque restaurant, with its plush carpet, varnished wood and polished brass. The panoramic windows frame the mountains that seem to rise straight from the lake.
CGN offers everything from ‘Wine Tasting on the Deck’ to the ‘History and Culture of the French Riviera’. There are breakfast cruises, sunset cruises and just plain ‘put your feet up and relax’ cruises.
Not a bad way to spend a day.
The Savoie (Historic Sailing Boat)
If a paddle steamer is a little too hi-tech for you, there’s always the Savoie. A replica of a 19th century wooden trading vessel, permanently moored in Evian.
The Savoie sails most weekends from May until October. Whether she unfurls her magnificent double sails depends heavily on the ‘meteo’.
Even without sails it’s a wonderful way to be out on the water. You can sit on the deck, listen to the creaking of the wooden hull as it lists gently, and hear echoes of the lake’s trading past.
Power Boats on Lake Geneva
Small power boats fill the marinas of the lake. It’s still possible to pick up a bargain on the ‘Bon Coin’ but finding a mooring is like gold dust.
We were lucky enough to find a small day boat that came with a mooring. With an RYA Powerboat Level 2 certificate and ICC (International Certificate of Competence) we could get out on the water whenever the sun shone.
I’m still not entirely sure where the ‘Competence’ bit came in.
We quickly discovered how difficult it is to manoeuvre a boat in a packed marine. Steer left and it goes right, steer right and it goes left. Basically, it just has a mind of its own —which makes the whole parking situation something of a spectator sport.
“Just let it drift” … was the less-than-calm instruction. “No, don’t pull that rope…just don’t touch anything…just…oh for goodness’ sake” (or words to that effect).
As the boat wedges itself — not lengthways but sideways — between two perfectly moored boats. Much to the amusement of the onlookers.
Exit one slightly frazzled crew member.
Rental Power Boats (No Licence Needed)
If you don’t want the commitment, you can still rent a small, speed-limited powerboat without a license from a kiosk on the front in Evian. They seat 4 comfortably and you can cruise slowly along the promenades, admiring the views.
However, if you’re simply after the experience of being on the water at Lake Geneva then I’d honestly recommend the Savoie or CGN paddle steamer.
Ferries Across Lake Geneva
There’s always the ever popular commuter ferries that ply their way back and forth from Evian to Lausanne, and link towns all around the lake. They can be pricey, and it’s best to avoid peak commuting times if you want to get a seat.
If you’re planning a daytrip to Lausanne or the vineyards of the Vaud then your ferry ticket can even include the metro that takes you from the quayside up into the city. Lausanne, as you’ll quickly discover, is very hilly.
Sailing and Yachts
Sailing schools dot the lake. The one in Evian sits next to the marina and offers sailing lessons for children as young as four. A colourful line of small catamarans and Lasers stretches along the jetty, all available to rent.
As for the larger yachts, I’m afraid I can’t help much there — but the yacht club might be a good place to start.
Paddleboards and Pedalos
For something a little more laid back, why not try paddle boarding? While the Lake can feel a little intimidating in places, there are plenty of small beaches where you can rent paddle boards by the hour and enjoy a dip.
One of the best spots is Excenevex, a long sandy beach that shelves gently into the water. Stay close to the shore and you’ll never be in deeper than your waist — and the water’s noticeably warmer too.
Pedalos can be rented from most of the main beaches around the lake.
Which option should you choose?
If it’s your first visit – CGN
If you like independence – rent a boat
If you’re short on time – ferry
If it’s a hot day – paddleboards and pedalos
If you want something quieter – Savoie
However you choose to get out there — drifting lazily on a paddleboard, gripping the wheel of a slightly wayward day boat, or gliding across the lake on a Belle Epoque steamer — the magic is the same.
The shoreline looks different from the water. The mountains feel closer, the villages quieter. And before you know it, you’re not just looking at the lake anymore — you’re part of it, in a good way.
Practical tips for getting on the water
Best time of day:
Every day is different on the lake, and it also depends on the time of year. Assuming you’re visiting in summer, and from our own experience, avoiding the heat of early afternoons is a good plan.
You have little protection from the sun and, if you factor in the reflection from the water, you can quickly get sunburnt. A breeze can also make it seem deceptively cool. Many people head out for an hour or so around 4pm and there can be less people in and out of the ports in the mornings.
Weather warning:
One thing you quickly realise is that the wind does exactly as it pleases. You start to read the clouds, watch for ripples in the distance, and feel the wind on your face.
There’s a system of orange flashing lights at strategic points all around the shoreline. Slow flashes mean you have time to get back to your home port before the storm hits. Rapid flashes mean head for the nearest port as quickly as you can.
From the balcony in Thollon, we could see the flashing lights and have time to bring in the dinner plates.
The best weather website for the lake at Evian is ‘Meteo Marine’. Looking at the forecast is vital before venturing out on the lake.
Booking Ahead (CGN):
All ferry information is available on the CGN website
Peak season notes:
Like any holiday destination it’s always best to book in advance to be guaranteed your place, especially for weekends or public holidays.
Rough price guide:
The main short cruises on the Savoie in Evian are currently:
Adults: around €13-18
Children: (6-12): around €8-10
Under 6’s: free
They also run longer themed cruises like sunset/music evenings: roughly €35-60 and full ‘Grand Lac’ day cruises with meal included: around €80
CGN prices vary depending on distance, route and whether you choose a simple crossing or one of the longer Belle Epoque cruises.
As a rough guide, expect to pay around €45-50 for a return crossing from Evian to Lausanne. Longer lunch or sightseeing cruises can range from around €90-120 per person.
It’s always worth checking the CGN website in advance for current timetables and seasonal offers.
