This is my Complete Lake Geneva Travel Guide for the hikers, the swimmers, the sailors and the shoppers. It’s for the adventurers, the romantics and the dreamers.
It’s for you and me.
Let’s travel together on and around this vast lake, discovering the towns and villages that hug its shores.
We’ll look at the mountains that follow the lake from Geneva down towards Italy. Visit the terraced vineyards of Lavaux in Switzerland — a UNESCO World Heritage Site — and the ancient forests of the Haute Savoie in France.
We can explore the legendary castles, admire Belle Ėpoque villas on both sides of the lake and discover the beaches that define its shoreline.
And best of all… we’ll have fun while we do it.
In writing my Complete Guide to Lake Geneva, I’ve had to make choices — otherwise this would be the length of an old encyclopaedia.
I’ve chosen the main towns that Lake Geneva is known for. I’ll give you the lowdown on other smaller towns and villages and other places of interest in later posts.
Lake Geneva at a Glance
- Best time to visit: June-September for beaches, swimming and festivals like the Montreux Jazz Festival: December-March for skiing in the surrounding mountains.
- Getting there: Fly into Geneva Airport, or take the train to Geneva’s Gare Cornavin, with excellent rail connections across Europe
- Getting around: By train, CGN lake ferry, or car — most towns don’t require a car
- Top towns to visit: Geneva, Nyon, Lausanne, Montreux, Evian-les-Bains, Yvoire
- Don’t miss: Geneva’s Jet d’Eau fountain, the medieval village of Yvoire, Château de Chillon near Montreux, the vineyards of Lavaux
- Good to know: Accommodation is generally cheaper on the French side of the lake, but factor in ferry costs if you plan to cross regularly
Where to Go
On the northern side of the lake is Switzerland, where the trains run on time and the chocolate is… divine.
Along the Swiss shore, head to Nyon for the Roman remains, or Lausanne, home of the Olympic headquarters. Or visit the Lavaux vineyards for some of the best views on the lake.
Across the water, on the southern side, the French Haute Savoie offers the same lakeside charm at a fraction of the cost.
Wander the medieval streets of Yvoire, sip the waters at the elegant spa town of Evian-les-Bains or base yourself in Thollon-les-Mémises, with its family-friendly slopes and easy lake access.
For something further afield, the dramatic rock face at Meillerie is best seen from the water and for the history lovers like me, you can walk in Lord Byron’s footsteps at Château de Chillon.
Whichever side you choose, you’re never far from a new village that’s worth the detour.
Towns and Villages
Geneva
If you’re visiting on holiday, or for business, you’ll most likely arrive via the international airport — and you can already get a sense of this lake from the aircraft window.
Bordered by snow-capped mountain peaks for most of the year, extending to Mont Blanc in the distance, the vast expanse of glittering water stretches out beneath you. There’s so much to explore here.
Geneva is a vibrant, cosmopolitan city, home to institutions like the UN and the Red Cross.
It can be forgiven for having a slightly austere feel to it but lift the corner of the rug and you’ll find a fantastic city full of quirky little backstreets, shops, tree-lined squares water fountains, excellent restaurants and a laid-back atmosphere that will make you want to stay longer.
Geneva also enjoys its own beaches.
Plage des Eaux-Vives is relatively new. It’s a free 400 metre stretch of sand and pebbles near Parc La Grange. It comes complete with its own ‘Anneau Aquatique’ – a striking ring-shaped platform floating right out over the water.
Perfect for soaking up the view of the famous fountain while you sunbathe.
Or there’s the Bains des Pâquis right in the city, perfect for a spot of sunbathing or a quick lunch between sightseeing.
And I have to mention the iconic fountain. the Jet d’Eau, it’s sensational.
Each time I come to Geneva I have my fingers crossed that it’s on. The rare occasion when no-one’s flipped the switch that morning always feels a bit disappointing — but luckily, that’s hardly ever the case.
Getting Around the Lake
Let’s work our way clockwise round the lake.
If you don’t have a car then the next best thing is to take the train.
Trains from Geneva serve all the towns on the north shore of the lake and the Leman Express runs regular local services from Geneva in both directions — on the Swiss side to Coppet, and on the French side to Evian.
There are also excellent local trains and buses connecting these to towns further along the lake or further inland too.
Nyon
Is Nyon worth visiting? Yes, absolutely.
Nyon is a picturesque town with a rich history. The Romans founded it as Colonia Iulia Equestris and you can still see the statues and Roman columns left behind right in the town.
Above the lake sits the fairy-tale Château de Nyon, with the beautiful, arcaded Place du Marché close by — a lovely spot for a coffee.
If you’re a football fan like me, you probably already know that this is home to UEFA’s headquarters, tucked away on the lakeshore.
I’m still hoping to bump into Arsène Wenger here one day.
For something different, the Musée du Léman tells the story of the lake itself, including the extraordinary account of the 563 AD tsunami. A wave up to 13 metres high struck Lausanne within minutes while a smaller wave later swept over Geneva’s city walls, destroying its bridge and mills.
Nyon deserves a guide all of its own, and I’ll be writing one soon — but for now, it’s a wonderful place to break your journey around the lake.
Lausanne
Next along the shore is Lausanne — officially the ‘Olympic Capital’ and home to the IOC since 1915.
The Olympic Museum on the lakefront at Ouchy is a must for sports fans. I came out ready to buy a thin-tyred bike and train for a triathlon, it never happened but you can dream!
Lausanne is also a genuine cultural hub, packed with museums and art galleries and if, like me, you enjoy a bit of shopping therapy, it has some great shops in its old town streets.
One thing you’ll notice about Lausanne is that it’s very hilly. There is, however, an excellent metro service with trains running from the lakeside every 3 minutes or so, plus lifts and escalators dotted about the town.
So, there’s no excuse not to make this a stop on your tour of the lake.
There’s a great guide to Lausanne on my website — Lausanne: A City of Athletes — so head there for the full story. For now, know that this is a city built on hills, with a lake at its feet and an energy that makes it one of the highlights of the whole Geneva shoreline.
Let’s hop on the local train now and head along the shoreline, past the vineyards of Lavaux and the sleepy hill side villages to the home of music on the lake, Montreux.
Montreux
When I was growing up in the UK, Montreux always seemed impossibly glamorous. Now, having visited many times… I still think it is.
It has a completely different feel to Lausanne, with its own micro-climate that lets palm trees thrive on the lakeshore.
No wonder it’s called the Swiss Riviera.
The lakeside promenade is the heart of it — a long, flower-lined walk perfect for an evening stroll or for joining the locals on a Sunday morning. Then why not sit in one of the cafés and people-watch until lunchtime.
Music lovers will already know Montreux as the home of the world-famous Montreux Jazz Festival, held every July, as the inspiration for Deep Purple’s Smoke on the Water, and as the place where Queen recorded some of their most iconic albums.
Freddy Mercury’s statue now stands on the lakefront.
Just along the shore sits Château de Chillon, forever associated with Lord Byron and now one of the most photographed castles in Switzerland.
Montreux is elegant yes, with its imposing Belle Époque hotels, but it’s far from stuffy. It has that little Swiss quirkiness that gives it character.
My top tip: check the prices before going into restaurants and cafés —they can seem exorbitantly expensive to us mere mortals.
Even better, take a picnic with you and sit on one of the little pebbly beaches along the promenade.
From Switzerland into France
We’ve now almost halfway around the lake, at the far eastern end. Behind Montreux is the Rocher-de-Naye and the Swiss Alps. Facing Montreux across the lake are the French Alps and the Mémises.
It would be easy if there was a direct train link from Montreux around the lake and back into the Haute Savoie, but although it’s on the cards it hasn’t happened yet.
In the meantime, the train from Montreux only goes as far as Saint Gingolph on the Swiss-French border, and even that takes over an hour (with a change in St Maurice).
Without a car, the easiest way to reach our next stop, the elegant French spa town of Evian-les-Bains is to take the train or bus back to Lausanne and cross the lake on one of the regular ferries.
Evian
The Haute Savoie has a much different feel to it — more rugged, less manicured, less affluent… but for untamed scenery, you can’t beat it.
Evian’s fame is built on water. Ever since the end of the 18th century people have been drawn to Evian for the health-giving properties of its natural spa water. The water is filtered down from the Mémises and the Dent d’Oche mountains that form the dramatic backdrop to the town.
The influx of affluent visitors at the end of the 19th century created an economic boom. Its reflected in the Belle Époque villas and the imposing waterfront buildings such as the Palais Lumière and the Casino. The town still has an air of faded glory today but that only adds to its charm.
Many Swiss people choose to live in the Haute Savoie and commute daily from Evian back to Switzerland to work. Known as ‘frontaliers’ they benefit from much higher Swiss salaries and lower French costs.
As a result, the prices in Evian have risen to reflect their spending power. Not as heart stopping as Montreux but still higher than the surrounding Haute Savoie.
With its bustling marina, its flower lined promenades and its incredible sunset spots, Evian is also well worth a visit.
Yvoire
Nestled along the shoreline between Evian and Geneva is the little medieval town of Yvoire and it’s one of the prettiest villages around the lake.
Fortified in the 14th century, Yvoire crumbled for centuries – its castle sat roofless for over 350 years – before being restored to its former glory in the 20th century.
This little pedestrianised town offers narrow cobbled streets that roll down towards the lake, stone archways and window boxes full of vibrant pink and red geraniums. No wonder it’s classified as one of France’s ‘Plus Beaux Villages’.
Pass through the old gates and you’ll see the 14th century château (privately owned, so no interior visits, but it’s a lovely backdrop) and the Jardin des Cinq Sens, a beautiful little walled garden devoted to the five senses.
If you love gardening, unusual plants and somewhere to sit and relax, then it’s worth the €15 entrance fee.
Yvoire is also known for its fish, particularly féra, a local lake fish that you’ll see on menus all around the town – and it’s delicious.
Grab a table at one of the harbour side restaurants and watch the boats come in.
Yvoire is tricky to get to without a car. You can take a bus from Thonon or catch the ferry over from Nyon or Lausanne. See the practical info at the end of this post for more information.
My top tip: Yvoire is incredibly popular, particularly with coach trips. The tiny streets fill up fast during the day. It’s best to come early in the morning when you can hear the birds sing and get the best light for your photos, or early evening when the crowds have gone.
Lake Geneva Beaches
With roughly 120 beaches dotted around the lake you’re never far from a spot to spread a towel out or take a dip.
Most beaches are pebbly, backed by grassy areas perfect for picnicking and sunbathing though there’s sand too if you want the classic bucket and spade experience.
On the Swiss side, Plage de Vidy-Bourget is a firm favourite, with 500m of sand and plenty of room to stretch out.
Over on the French side Excenevex steals the show – shallow water that’s ideal for water sports, backed by a long stretch of golden sand.
There are lovely beaches all around the lake, but I have a soft spot for those on the Haute Savoie side.
Beach life here has a more relaxed bohemian energy –tiny beach bars, oversized parasols, cushions to sink into and an aperitif as the sun goes down. Flip-flops are of course, compulsory.
So, grab your towel and come with me – let’s find somewhere to catch the sun and slow down for a while.
The Best Time to Visit Lake Geneva
Lake Geneva is a genuine year-round destination. But each season has something completely different to offer, so it’s worth knowing what to expect.
What to expect in Summer
This is peak season, with July and August being the most popular months. The towns along the lake fill with holiday makers and second homeowners, the beaches get busy, and the cafés and restaurants spill over with visitors.
The CGN Belle Époque paddle steamers run at their fullest schedule, criss-crossing the lake between Geneva, Lausanne, Montreux and Yvoire.
It’s also festival season – the Montreux Jazz Festival takes over in July, and towns throughout the region hold their own summer markets and events.
The weather can be extremely warm, and hot summer days are often followed by dramatic thunderstorms in the evening. Watching the lightning circle the lake on a warm summer night is always one of my favourite things.
Summer’s the best time for swimming, sailing, and lazy afternoons on one of those 120 odd beaches – but also the busiest, so places like Yvoire are best visited early or late in the day, as mentioned.
What to expect in Winter
Winter transforms the lake completely.
The towns are quieter, many of the seasonal businesses close for a few weeks, and the Belle Époque paddle steamers mostly stay docked, replaced by a much-reduced ferry timetable.
But what you lose in bustle, you gain in atmosphere – crisp air, snow-dusted mountains framing the water, and a calm, reflective lake.
Winter’s also when the mountains around the lake come into their own.
Just above the shoreline, resorts like Thollon-les-Mémises on the French side and Leysin on the Swiss side offer family-friendly skiing with the lake down below you – get skiing and lakeside scenery in the same breath.
Further afield, the wider Portes du Soleil region opens up access to some of the best skiing in the Alps, all withing easy reach of the lake.
It’s a quieter, moodier side to Lake Geneva – but for many, it’s just as beautiful as summer, if not more so.
Cruising the Lake: The CGN
Whatever time you visit, the CGN (Compagnie Générale de Navigation) is worth knowing about. Operating since 1823, it’s the oldest lake navigation company in Switzerland, and its fleet include genuine Belle Époque paddle steamers – some over a century old – alongside more modern boats.
In summer, services run at their most frequent, linking towns on both shores and making it easy to hop between, say, Lausanne and Evian, or Nyon and Yvoire, without a car.
In winter, services are reduced and focus mainly on commuter routes, though a handful of scenic Sunday cruises and fondue dinner cruises still run for those wanting the experience without the summer crowds.
Whichever season you choose, a boat crossing is one of the loveliest ways to see the lake – so it’s worth building at least one into your trip.
Timetables change with the seasons, so it’s always worth checking the current schedule on the official CGN website before you travel.
Getting There
Most people arrive at Lake Geneva through Geneva Airport, which sit right on the edge of the city and is served by direct flights from most major European hubs, plus a good number of long-haul connections.
It’s one of the easiest airports in Europe to land at and be lakeside within the hour – from the terminal, it’s a short taxi or train ride straight into central Geneva.
Geneva’s main train station, Cornavin, connects directly to Paris, Lyon, Milan and beyond via high-speed rail, and once you’re in the region, local trains make it easy to reach Lausanne, Montreux, Nyon and Vevey without ever needing a car.
You can check current times and book tickets directly via SBB, Switzerland’s national rail timetable, which covers the full Swiss timetable including trains, buses and boats.
You’ll also find special offers on the SBB site including the Swiss Travel Pass which offer one simple pass for train, bus and boat travel.
Driving is also a straightforward option particularly if you’re planning to explore both the Swiss and French sides of the lake or venture up into the mountains for a ski trip.
The Swiss motorway network is excellent, and A 40 links neatly into the French Haute Savoie. Just bear in min that Switzerland requires a vignette (a small annual road tax sticker) for motorway driving, so factor that in if you’re using a car. You can buy the Swiss Vignette online.
However you arrive, the lake itself does a lot of the orienting for you – most of the towns in this guide sit right along its shore, so once you’re lakeside, getting around is refreshingly simple.
Where to Stay
This is one of the trickiest decisions for Lake Geneva, because where you base yourself really shapes your trip.
Broadly speaking, staying on the French side – around Evian, Thonon or Yvoire – tends to be noticeably cheaper than staying in Switzerland, sometimes significantly so for similar quality accommodation. If budget is a factor, this is worth serious consideration.
But there’s a catch: if your plan involves regularly crossing the lake by ferry to explore the Swiss side, those crossings aren’t cheap, and the cost can add up quickly over a longer stay.
So, it’s worth doing the maths before you book – a few nights’ savings on French accommodation can be eaten into quickly by daily return ferry tickets, especially if you’re travelling as a family or a group.
If you’re planning to stay French side but only cross occasionally, it still works out well. If you want to hop between shores most days, staying Swiss-side, or basing yourself somewhere with good train/bus links instead of relying on the ferry, may work out better overall.
A Few General Pointers
Geneva is a good base if you want a city feel, easy airport access, and day trips in multiple directions
Lausanne or Montreux suit those who want lake views with a bit more Swiss charm and easy train access along the shore.
Evian or Thonon work well for a lower-cost base with easy access to the French villages and countryside, especially if you have a car
Yvoire is lovely for a night or two, but it’s genuinely tricky to reach without a car – there’s no train station, and your best bet is a bus from Thonon (Line J stopping at Yvoire Pré Ponce) or the seasonal CGN ferry from Nyon or Lausanne. Fine as a day trip or short stay if you’re happy to work around the schedules, but not the easiest choice as your main base if you don’t have your own transport.
Whichever side you choose, this guide’s town-by-town sections should help you weigh up the character of each place – this is just the budget and logistics layer to think about first.
A Final Word
So, there you have it – my Complete Guide to Lake Geneva. From the Roman remains of Nyon to the Olympic spirit of Lausanne, the glamour of Montreux to the quiet charm of Yvoire, this lake has a way of giving you exactly what you came for, whether that’s adventure, romance, or simply a bit of peace and quiet.
I hope this has given you enough to start planning – and maybe even tempted you to add a few detours of your own. For those towns that deserve a closer look, keep an eye out for my dedicated guides that I add to regularly.
Until then – happy travels, and I’ll see you on the water.
