Forget the North Coast 500 with its nose-to-tail traffic jams. Forget Route 66.
Are you looking for a Road Trip that combines sensational scenery, challenging roads, and a touch of old-fashioned glamour?
Then the sensational Alpine route to the South of France, the Route des Grandes Alpes, is for you.
The Route des Grandes Alpes
Stretching for 720 km from the shores of Lake Geneva to the French Riviera, this Alpine route crosses 17 mountain passes. It snakes its way through rocky gorges and across ice-blue rivers, winds over snow-covered peaks, and meanders gently through lush, flower-strewn meadows.
Along the way, it passes through some of the most beautiful stone-built villages in France.
Finally, it winds its way steeply down through heavily scented pine forests to the orange and lemon groves of the shimmering Mediterranean at Menton.
Such audacity!
What audacity it has taken to conceive it, what temerity to undertake it, and what genius to complete it!’
French President, Albert Lebrun, 1938
The idea of a Route des Grandes Alpes was conceived in 1903 by the Touring Club de France, a social club devoted to promoting tourism and travel.
The aim was to encourage tourists to visit the remoter areas of France. Creating employment for impoverished areas and providing a challenging drive for the exciting newly emerging motor car enthusiast.
Interrupted by the First World War, the road wasn’t fully opened until 1937. The final sections over the Col de l’Iseran (alt. 2769m) and the Col du Bonhomme were then completed.
The Mythical Route to the South of France
It was the cyclists of the 1890s who paved the way for the early motorists.
Cycling took off around the turn of the century and became hugely popular in France. Scores of magazine articles were published offering advice, equipment lists, maps, and plans for the intrepid cyclist.
The book, ‘The Mythical Route des Alpes’ that accompanied a recent exhibition in Evian Les Bains offers the following advice:
The fastest ways to cycle up the ascent: find a kid to push the bicycle, attach it to a mule, or hold on to the Alpine coaches that travel along the route.
As for the dizzying descents, they’re made easier and cease to be dangerous if one uses a small branch, which is attached to the bicycle and drags along the ground several metres behind, acting as a brake
The dangers of mountain roads
If you weren’t so keen on the white-knuckle ride by bicycle and couldn’t afford a car you could travel in style with the P-L-M Railway Company (Paris-Lyon-Mediterraneé).
Over 5 or 6 days you could follow the Route des Alpes from Nice to Evian Les Bains using the PLM’s network of trains and open-top coaches. The coaches held a maximum of 14 and comfort was assured by the Chesterfield-like bench seats, a top speed of 25km/h, and shock absorbers.
Despite the guarantees of comfort and safety, there were one or two incidents where coaches were lost over the side of the narrow mountain roads and the unfortunate passengers were either injured or killed.
Looking for an alpine adventure
Since those heady days of the 1930s, the road has been continually improved. It’s still very narrow in places, such as the Col de Cayolle. There are sections where you need a good head for heights, particularly in the passenger seat when the mountain seems to drop vertically from the edge of the road.
If you’re looking for adventure, however, then the Route des Grandes Alpes combines a breath-taking variety of scenery with fascinating places to visit.
I can guarantee that it will be a truly unforgettable experience.
The Route des Grandes Alpes to the South of France
The main stages of the Route take you:
- from Evian les Bains or Thonon les Bains to the Col des Aravis
- then from Col des Aravis to the Col de L’Iseran.
- From the Col de L’Iseran to the Col du Galibier
- on to the Col du Galibier and the Col de Vars
- the Col de Vars to the Col de la Cayolle
- and finally from the Col de la Cayolle to Menton
Stage 1 – Evian or Thonon les Bains to the Col des Aravis
The traditional starting point of the ‘Grande Route’ is Thonon Les Bains, the historic capital of the Chablais, which sits on the southern edge of Lake Geneva.
Once a thriving fishing port, Thonon maintains its link with the industry with its Ecopeche museum, housed in one of the colourful fisherman’s cottages on the quayside.
A funicular runs from the shopping streets of the main town down to the lower lakeside promenades where you can eat al fresco under colourful umbrellas and shady plane trees.
Beginning in Thonon the Grande Route follows the rushing waters of the River Dranse, and heads up towards the Valley d’Abondance, famed for its firm flavoursome cheese from cows that graze the alpine meadows.
The Devil’s Gorge
Continuing on, the twisting, winding road passes the entrance to the Gorges du Pont du Diable. Discovered in 1892 the gorges are the result of thousands of years of glacial erosion.
From the visitor centre, a forest walk descends down to a cave-like entrance. The original wooden ladders and balustrades have long since been replaced by strong metal walkways from which you can admire the sculpted, flowing, rockface and the icy river running 50 metres below.
The gorges have been part of the UNESCO Chablais Geopark since 2012 and are well worth a visit.
A Home for Retired Ski-lifts
The Route des Grandes Alpes continues to climb, passing through the popular ski resorts of Morzine and Les Gets.
The challenging and undulating golf course at Les Gets has a hole where you’re advised to line up your tee shot with the summit of the distant Mont Blanc.
Les Gets is also home to the world-renowned Museum of Mechanical Musical Instruments.
On we roll to Taninges. Ever fancied owning your own ski lift? Taninges is the place for you. Sitting in the roadside yard of the brocante/bric a brac in Taninges are dozens of vintage chairlifts and ski gondolas all looking for a new home.
What better souvenir of the Alps?
From Taninges the road continues up to the rolling alpine meadows of Le Reposoir, where the Carmelite Monastery of Reposoir nestles against a backdrop of jagged snow-capped mountains.
The quaint wooden chalets and constant clanking of cowbells so typical of the Alps, along with the crisp pure mountain air add to the exhilarating experience.
Loving the Lycra
There are hardly any cars on the route, sometimes none for miles, but there are swarms of athletic cyclists and bikers of all ages.
On the terrace of the café at the Col des Aravis, a nimble woman in her mid-70s slipped into a seat next to me. Fully clad in racing lycra she’d just completed the 2000 metre cycle to the top.
I wheezed my way through lunch and a delicious Myrtle Tart, and ambled back to the car, blaming my lack of fitness on the lack of lycra… obviously.
Stage 2 – Col des Aravis to the Col de L’Iseran
From the Col des Aravis the road descends to the pretty touristy town of Flumet.
Built on a rocky outcrop above the confluence of two mountain torrents, the terraces of several small restaurants and houses hang precariously over the gorge.
This is where you start to discover if you have a head for heights. From Flumet the route rises towards the famous ski resort of Val d’Isere. It continues climbing steeply to the Col de L’Iseran. At 2770 metres this is the highest point on the trip.
The panoramic views of the snow-capped mountains are spectacular. This wind-swept pass is one of those only open during the summer months, nevertheless, it’s always really cold up here.
Don’t forget to pack an extra jumper or two so you can step out on top of the world and let the wind blow the cobwebs away.
Stage 3 – Col de l’Iseran – Col de Galibier
Often featured in the Tour de France, this stretch of road is painted with colourful advertising slogans, designed to be visible by drone or helicopter during the race.
Clumps of vintage car enthusiasts grind their way up these passes on their way to the Cote d’Azur, adding to that South of France glamour, albeit of a bygone age.
Into the Alpine Wilderness
We head on through the empty wild landscape of the Haute Maurienne. Evidence of climate change is plain to see.
The rocky tails of retreating glaciers sit like exclamation marks in the history of these valleys. The ebb and flow of ice over the millennia has defined not only the valleys and mountain ranges but the communities too.
Numerous traces of Neolithic and rich Iron Age settlements have been discovered in these remote areas demonstrating man’s ingenuity and adaptability.
The Most Beautiful Alpine Villages in France
One of the most beautiful villages to be found today in this area, an official ‘Plus Beaux Villages de France’ is Bonneval-sur-Arc in the Vanoise region.
Tucked in the cleft of a valley Bonneval has restored and maintained its many quaint stone-built cottages and narrow alley-ways.
Once a thriving agricultural community its main source of income is now tourism. Like most alpine villages it has a small network of ski runs in the winter.
During the summer it relies on second homers and travelers on the Route des Grandes Alpes for its income.
In the harsh winters of the 1960s, the village was completely cut off for weeks and baguettes were airlifted in by helicopter.
Hannibal and Napoleon
From Bonneval sur Arc the Grande Route snakes on through Bessans and Lanslevilard. It begins its steep climb to the Col du Mont Cenis (alt. 2084m).
This mountain pass is proud of its historical connections. Some believe this was the pass used by Hannibal to cross the Alps with his elephants. There’s a monument to this achievement by the roadside.
What is certain is that the pass has been a major trading route connecting the Savoie and Italy since the Middle Ages. Napoleon built the road that crosses the pass in 1806 to move his troops more efficiently.
It is still used by pilgrims following the Via Francigena from Canterbury via Turin, to Rome.
Telegraph Road
This is a popular stretch of road for cyclists and motorbikers alike. It demands your full attention. The 70 km downhill drive to the foot of the Col de Telegraph passes through some of the Route’s most spectacular scenery.
It’s worth stopping every now and then to soak in the magnificence of the snow-capped mountains and wallow in the peace and quiet… well at least until the next posse of bikers arrives.
Not far from here is the picturesque and popular little ski resort of Valloire. So pretty that we made a mental note to come back in the winter to explore some of its 150 km of ski slopes and beautiful stone-built houses.
Valloire also plays host to many major international skiing and ice-skating competitions.
The Tour de France
Ahead of us now is the steepest part of the Route. This takes us up to the windswept Col de Galibier (2,642 metres).
This stretch of road is the most gruelling part of the Tour de France. The Tour’s founder, Henri Desgrange (1865-1940) is celebrated in a large monument beside the road.
Stage 4 Col de Galibier to the Col de Vars
The Col de Galibier marks the boundary between the Savoie and the Department of the Hautes Alpes. It’s worth stopping in the small car park to soak in the breathtaking views.
The mountain ranges stretch far into the distance.
Alpine Gardens
A few kilometres further and we cross the Col de Lautaret at 2,057 metres. For the keen gardeners among you, there’s an alpine garden here that is home to 2000 alpine plants from around the world.
The Grande Route never ceases to surprise.
Crossing the summit of the Col we’re met by a man and woman walking beside a heavily-laden donkey. She looks exhausted. They’re continuing the pilgrim tradition of crossing the Alps on foot with a donkey or an ass. It’s hard enough in the car!
Are We Nearly There Yet?
How many passes have we done so far? I think it must be 10 or 11. Here’s the absolutely stunning Col de Izoard.
This is where the scenery changes completely. Gone are the brooding snow-capped mountains and in their place are honey-coloured rocky outcrops, like scattered rows of broken teeth.
The pine trees have given way to more stately larch and cedar, the air is softer and the rock glows in the golden sunlight.
The winding hairpin bends are dotted with groups of adrenaline-fuelled cyclists that fly past us at the speed of light.
Although the mountain ranges accompany you down to the fringes of the Mediterranean it’s from this point onwards that you really begin to feel you’re in the South of France.
Stage 5 Col de Vars – Col de Cayolle
Arriving in the small town of Vars we searched forlornly for a lunch stop.
Vars is a bustling winter resort, linked to Risoul and the ‘Forêt Blanche’ ski area. Out of season, it’s a ghost town. Its restaurants, like many ski resorts, stay closed until summer visitors arrive in July and August.
Further on towards the Col de Vars we found a picturesque roadside restaurant only to discover it was full. Those in the know book well in advance.
Lunchtime in France can be tricky. Lunch is generally served from 12 noon till 2 pm, but you’ll often find the chef has gone home at 1.30.
Trading Routes
With the pedal to the floor, we hurtled into the town of Barcelonette. Sitting at 1100 metres in the Ubaye Valley, Barcelonette is only 10 minutes from access to 280 km of alpine skiing.
The elegant Belle Epoque villas give it a more sophisticated air than its near neighbours. Part of the Provence-Alpes-Cote d’Azur region Barcelonette has been a strategic trading and administrative centre since pre-Roman times.
Clustered around the market square are small bars and restaurants serving excellent plats du jour with a southern French twist.
Nerves of Steel
Are you still with me? We’re nearly there now. What else does this incredible road have to show us? The Col de Cayolle! Most of this road has been challenging.
With its precipitous drops, its steep winding climbs, and its eagle nest views. The Col de Cayolle however, is something else. Petrifying would be the word.
This narrow single-track road was one of the last sections of the Grande Route to be opened. It runs for 29 km alongside the river Var and connects Barcelonette to St Martin d’Entraunes.
As you enter the col there are ominous signs warning of rockfalls and the road is scattered with small rocks as we drive cautiously along.
Then looming in the distance, we spot…a motorhome…a large motorhome. There’s no room to pass each other. It’s impossible to turn the car around. The only solution is to reverse around the hairpin bends. A sheer rockface on one side and a steep drop on the other. What fun. I’m so glad we decided to turn down a glass of wine with lunch.
It is, however, spectacular. This section of the Grande Route is only open from the end of May. If you have nerves of steel it’s an unforgettable experience and it leads us nicely to the striking red rocks of the Gorges de Dalius.
A Geography Teacher’s Dream
This entire trip has been a geography teacher’s wildest dream. At each stage, the geology has changed. From the ancient sedimentary rock of the Alps to the retreating glaciers, to the rolling black lava north of Entraunes, the gateway to the Mercantour National Park.
Stage 6 Col de Cayolle to Menton
The last stage of our journey sees us entering the Alpes Maritimes Department at the Col de la Cayolle. It takes us through several rock tunnels, passing close to Valberg, another deserted ski resort like Vars.
We cruise over the Col St Martin and down to Saint-Martin-Vésubie. Although beautiful at the time of our journey this area suffered catastrophic damage at the hands of Storm Alex in October 2020.
Welcome to the South of France
Carrying on we come to the Col de Turini, housing the most impressive set of hairpin bends. These are so tight and go on for so long that you start to feel seasick after a while.
The road continues to twist and wind its way down between the soaring peaks. Ancient olive groves cascade down the hillsides overlooked by pretty hilltop towns and villages.
From there we head to the small picturesque medieval town of Sospel, famed for its cathedral and the old toll bridge with a central tower straddling the Bévéra river.
During this final stage, there is a real sense of leaving the mountains as the cols become gentler. Bright yellow flowers of laburnum trees line the banks and overshadow the road.
Then, through the trees, in the far distance, you catch your first glimpse of the shining Mediterranean.
Magnificent Menton
The original Route in the 1930s ended in Nice. These days the road takes you to Menton close to the Italian border.
With its azure blue skies, waving palm trees, and the painted houses of the old town, Menton is a riot of colour.
We stayed for a few days at the Royal Westminster Hotel on the seafront before heading back to Evian via Italy and the Great Saint Bernard pass.
An alpine trip of a lifetime
We traveled in mid-June, a week or so after the ploughs had cleared the highest passes of snow.
The smell of freshly mown Alpine meadows and swathes of wildflowers followed us through the mountains. The majestic pine and larch forests eventually morphing into the lemon and orange groves of the South of France.
Watch the weather
The weather was spectacularly good. from the coolness of Lake Geneva to the fresh invigorating breezes of the mountain tops and the sunny warmth of the Mediterranean.
This meant we could stay on the original Route des Grandes Alpes for its entire length.
As with any mountain areas, the weather is never guaranteed. In bad weather, you may need to drop down from the high road and look for alternative routes.
Take your time to enjoy the alpine sites
Our trip took us 2 days to complete. If you split the journey into 4 or 5 days you’d have time to visit some of the amazing sites along the way.
The Gorge du Pont du Diable, the Grande Chartreuse Abbey and the fort at Briançon are all worth the detour.
The little restaurants and cafes that dot the mountain tops offer light lunches, snacks, and welcome toilet breaks.
A variety of accommodation is available in most of the villages along the way. We had one overnight stop in a small village, Bonneval-sur-Arc in the Vanoise region.
The Route des Grandes Alpes combines breathtaking scenery with sensational sites to visit to create a truly unforgettable experience.
If you do just one road trip in your life,
make it this one.
Great blog Lyndsay, lovely trip!
Thank you 💙