Allow a full day at a relaxed pace including coffee, lunch and photo stops.

Trains run frequently back to Montreux (around every 30 minutes), so you can shorten the walk at several points along the route.

Difficulty: Easy-moderate (distance rather than hills)
Accessibility: Flat, suitable for all fitness levels, buggy friendly
Distance: 18 km
Time: 5-6 hours depending on stops
Start: Montreux quays
Finish: Lutry station
Best for: Scenic walking, cafés, photography, architecture and relaxed exploring
Refreshment stops: Montreux · Clarens · Vevey · Lutry
Top tips: Comfortable walking shoes, sun hat and sunscreen — even outside midsummer it can feel surprisingly warm beside the lake. Take a bottle of water with you for the Lavaux section.

Falling for the Swiss Riviera

I’m in love with the Riviera. Not the slightly brash, ostentatious one where film stars jostle and pout on the red carpet.

No, I’m in love with its altogether more sophisticated cousin… the Swiss Riviera.

So, where’s the magic?

It’s right here.

It’s in the mountains that rise straight from the lake, crowns skimming the clouds. It’s in the crystal clear mountain water, the eerie siren calls of the paddle-steamers and the faded glory of the honey coloured villas.

With the glittering waters of Lac Léman and the French Alps beyond, backed by the Rochers- de-Naye, this is scenery on an epic scale.

But there’s more than just a great view.

The Swiss Riviera Walk

There’s something special in the air here.

Something that has drawn people to this particular spot for centuries — writers like Rousseau, Byron, Scott Fitzgerald and Hemingway; artists like Turner and Courbet; and, of course musicians like Freddy Mercury and David Bowie.

Let’s set aside the usual Montreux highlights for a day and discover what makes this place so special.

So come with me on this beautiful Swiss Riviera walk.

Where to from here?

Let’s walk west from Montreux towards Lutry, where the Riviera gradually gives way to vineyards tumbling down to the water’s edge.

We’ll leave the busiest spots behind and explore palm-lined promenades, elegant lakeside towns and some of the quieter corners of the Swiss Riviera.

Along the way I can promise you coffee and cake, plenty of pauses to drink in the views and  — perhaps best of all — an apéro at the end of the day.

Why don’t we start early and beat the crowds?

Quais de Montreux

We’ll begin at the famous Freddie Mercury statue in front of Montreux market hall.

Freddie lived and worked in Montreux for many years, relishing the peace he found here. Fans still leave flowers and little tributes at the foot of his statue.

But today we’re walking on.

Palm trees probably aren’t the first thing you’d associate with Switzerland, but they line the promenade here.  Thanks to its own micro-climate, the Swiss Riviera has a sunny Mediterranean feel that seems completely at odds with the Alps towering behind it.

Heading west we pass rose gardens and the grand Belle Époque hotels of Montreux. Their yellow awnings give a light, bright twist to their imperial grandeur.

I love this section of the Swiss Riviera walk , it feels like a mini open-air sculpture garden.

See how many bronze sculptures of composers and animals you can spot hidden among the flower beds.

And the cherry on top here? The little yachts and boats that moor just off-shore.

If you only take one photo on this walk, take it here.

Coffee stop: Clarens 

Strolling on we come to Clarens. It feels much quieter here.  The soft colours of the Belle Epoque villas and their slightly overgrown gardens give it a more laid back feel.

Clarens has long attracted  artists and writers. Painters like Turner and Courbet came here, while writers including Rousseau and Byron found inspiration on these shores.

Byron visited Clarens in 1816 and is said to have travelled with a well-thumbed copy of Rousseau’s La Nouvelle Heloise, curious to see the landscape that had inspired the novel.

In a way, he was among Europe’s very first tourists.

I love the fact that, even 200 years later, you can still clearly recognise the places they wrote about.

It’s like sharing a secret.

Anyway, enough culture for now, let’s talk tea! There’s a little tea-room, the Tea-room Leduc, on Rue du Grammont just off the promenade that is well worth the detour.

The smell of fresh coffee greets you as soon as you open the door. Pull up a chair and let’s treat ourselves to a pastry before heading on.

Open: Tuesday to Friday 7:00 – 14:00 — Saturday 7:00 – 12:00
Closed Monday

Villa ‘Le Lac’, Corseaux 

Mention Le Corbusier to almost any architect and their eyes light up. One of the pioneers of modern architecture, his influence can be seen all over the world.

His tiny house, Villa ‘Le Lac’, designed for his parents in 1923, sits directly beside the promenade. From the outside it’s surprisingly modest —  a long low white building with ribbon like windows and almost no decoration at all.

Inside though, it’s painted with vibrant colours that soften the clean lines, but furnished in a way that I’d describe as… spartan.  But then again, I do like a bit of sparkle.

This little house turned out to be more influential than it first appears and became an early expression of many of Le Corbusier’s later ideas.

Is it worth a visit?  Mmm… perhaps, if architecture or interior design is your thing — or if you want to impress the next architect you meet.

If you fancy a look inside, visits currently run on Saturdays and Sundays 14:00 – 17:00

La Tour-de-Peilz

From here onwards, the Swiss Riviera walk becomes quieter.

We pass the 13^th century Savoy castle sitting directly on the waterfront, its towers reflected in the lake.

The castle was once home to the William Beckford, author of the Gothic novel ‘Vathek’.

Back in the day Beckford was described as ‘the richest man in Britain’. He was also wildly eccentric and no stranger to scandal.

To escape the press and his critics, he relocated to Switzerland where he continued to host lavish balls and parties.

Today the castle is the Swiss Museum of Games, which somehow feels appropriate.

This is also where the Riviera begins to change. There are fewer visitors, more locals and maybe a glimpse of everyday Switzerland.

The scenery, though, is every bit as beautiful and the breeze from the lake just as refreshing.

Vevey and the giant fork 

If all this walking is making you feel hungry, you’re in exactly the right place. Rising out of the water like a giant exclamation mark is an 8-metre (26 feet) stainless-steel fork.

It was installed as part of a temporary exhibition, but the locals loved it so much that it’s stayed.

The fork is one of the Riviera’s most photographed landmarks. On misty days, with snow-dusted mountains behind it, you can see why.

Vevey is also home to Nestlé and the Alimentarium, Nestlé’s food museum.

It would be fair to say that Switzerland has a thing about good food. And chocolate is no exception. I was surprised to discover that milk chocolate was invented by Daniel Peter and Nestlé here in Vevey.

Place du Marché

Beyond the fork, one of the most striking things about Vevey is Place du Marché —one of Switzerland’s largest arcaded squares, opening directly onto the lake.

On Tuesdays and Saturdays, the market fills with local cheese and charcuterie stalls.

On Saturday mornings you can buy wine by the glass from local producers and sip as you shop.

Every 20 – 25 years the Marché in Vevey hosts the extraordinary the Fête des Vignerons — a huge celebration with music, wine and hundreds of performers.

The best bit is buying a small glass (wine is often served in very small glasses in Switzerland) and filling it as many times as you like from the various stands, which I think rather defeats the point of the small glass.

Vevey has always drawn people in.

Charlie Chaplin lived for 25 years just outside Vevey at Corsier-sur-Vevey. His former home, Manoir de Ban, is now a Hollywood style ‘studio experience’ showcasing his life’s work and recreating the atmosphere of the silent movie days.

Before modern transport, women from Haute Savoie rowed across Lac Léman to buy and sell goods in Vevey before rowing home again the same day. Much more exhausting than our Swiss Riviera walk.

Lunch in Vevey

Please tell me it’s lunchtime! Time to rest our feet and soak up a little local life.

I’ve got two good lunch options in Vevey for you, both just a few minutes from the lake.

The Café – Restaurant du Port on Rue d’Italie specialises in lake fish — particularly perch and fera — and has a large sunny terrace. It’s unpretentious and reasonably priced.

Open: Daily June – August
Sept – May: Closed Mondays (15:00)

Or there’s Gueuleton Vevey on Rue du Léman — a popular spot serving fish from the lake,  sharing platters, Vaudois charcuterie and local Chasselas by the glass.  (My tip is to check the prices before booking)

Sounds delicious… although I suspect I’ll skip the sharing bit.

Into the Lavaux vineyards

Leaving Vevey behind, the character of the walk changes almost without you noticing. The cafés and busy promenades fade into the sweeping terraces of one of Switzerland’s most famous landscapes.

The Lavaux vineyards are among the steepest vineyards in the world. Luckily we don’t have to climb them today on our Swiss Riviera walk.

There are said to be over 10,000 terraces with a phenomenal 400 km of dry stone walls.

One of my favourite facts about Lavaux is that it’s known as the ‘land of the three suns’. The vineyards are warmed not only by the sun overhead but also by its reflection from Lake Geneva and by the heat stored in the dry stone terrace walls.

It’s a unique combination that helps produce exceptional wines here, particularly the light refreshing Chasselas that you’ll find everywhere.

If you have the time, wander up into one of the little wine villages. Behind the heavy wooden doors you’ll often see the wine presses and depending on the season, local winemakers hard at work.

I’ll be honest, by this stage my feet are beginning to remind me I’ve been walking for several hours. On a warm day this stretch can feel surprisingly long, but keep going, we’re almost there.

The first glimpse of Lutry’s little harbour is a welcome sight and the promise of a cold drink is all the motivation we need.

 Lutry

And here we are — at the end of our walk, with it’s little ports, waterside cafés and stunning views.

And, unofficially at least, the end of the Swiss Riviera.

The palms and Belle Epoque villas give way to the sweeping vineyards of Lavaux and to Lausanne further along.

Those are adventures for another day — but if you’d like a taste of what’s around the corner, then take a look at ‘Lausanne — a City of Athletes’ or if sampling the local wine is more your thing, then see ‘Lavaux — A Stairway to Heaven’.

In the meantime, let’s take a moment to look back along the full sweep of the Riviera.

We did it!

Eighteen kilometres of the Swiss Riviera walk, along one of Europe’s most beautiful lakefronts. And now all that remains is the reward.

Apéro: Les Copains d’Abord

Les Copains d’Abord is known as the best bar on the Lutry quai, it serves craft beer, local wine and tapas right beside the water.

There’s nothing quite like that feeling that you’ve earned your glass of wine or your Aperol after a day’s walking.

This is our chance to wind down, look through our photos and reflect on life on the Swiss Riviera.  And the best part?  The train back to Montreux is only 5 minutes away.

Photo Credit: Vevey Market Hall: Photo by Jmh2o, via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
Photo credit: Tour de Peilz: Patrick Nouhailler’s

The post Explore the Swiss Riviera: A Walk from Montreux to Lutry appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

Discover a few of the sensational Christmas markets to be found close to Evian Les Bains.

Listen carefully and you might just be able to hear the jingle of Christmas bells, the Ho, Ho, Ho of a battalion of Santas, and the occasional chorus of angels. Yes, it’s Christmas!  Well, not really, it’s only November, but it’s never too early to start to get into the Christmas spirit.

As the temperature drops and snow begins to fall in the mountains, villages, and towns around Lake Geneva are switching on their Christmas lights (LED’s of course) and opening their Christmas markets.

photo by Jill Wellington on Pexels

Looking for the perfect Christmas present?

Where better to find presents for all those hard-to-buy-for friends and relatives? You know the ones I mean? The ‘Oh, I don’t want anything this year’ or the ‘I’ve got everything I need, don’t get me anything’ type of person…yes… you know who you are.  So, if you’re like me and can’t bear the thought of wrapping an empty box then Christmas markets are for you.

photo by Pixabay

From hand-carved marmots to embroidered vests, from knitted waistcoats to gilded soap, you can find beautiful, original, and often quirky gifts made by local artisans, and at prices, even an elf can afford.

Let’s not forget the mulled wine, the warm mince pies or the Savoyard equivalent, the freshly baked gingerbreads, the melt-in-your-mouth cinnamon biscuits, and of course, the tartiflette and the bratwurst…

Here are a few of my favourite Christmas markets

Thonon Les Bains and Les Féeriques

Last year’s ‘Les Féeriques’ was a huge success and this year’s Christmas festivities are even bigger and better. With over 700 Christmas trees spread around the town, it promises to have oodles of atmosphere.  The market is hosting 60 traditional chalets selling artisanal gifts and locally produced specialties at the ‘Belvedere’, which has stunning views overlooking the lake.

The ever-popular ice rink is being enlarged and a Christmas-themed ‘Son et Lumiere’ will illuminate the impressive façade of the town hall.  Close to the town hall, you can also find the magical walkway, the ‘Enchanted Forest’ to add to that festive season experience.

There’s no time like the present

photo by Humphrey Meluba on Pexels

Concerts will be held at the market on 16th December and, low and behold, Santa himself will arrive on 17th December. Despite being incredibly busy at this time of year he’s managing to find time to stay in his chalet at the market until 24th December.

Running from 1^st December until 1^st January this is one not to miss. There’s also a Xmas funfair at Luna Park, Place de Crete, Thonon in case you haven’t had enough fun.  (I can hear the groan from my other half already). Moving swiftly on….

Magnificent Montreux

The daddy of them all.

Montreux puts on a spectacular show at Christmas and has one of the largest and most atmospheric Christmas markets.

photo by Darcy Lawrey on Pexels

Whether you go during the day when Montreux is framed by majestic snow-capped mountains, or in the evening when the twinkling Christmas lights are reflected on the surface of the lake beneath the star-studded sky.  It’s truly magical.

Dear Santa ….

There’s a large covered indoor market with plenty of traditional eateries, stalls, and activities for children of all ages. There are also over 150 small chalets, festooned with fairy lights, selling everything from scented candles to marzipan fruits. Crackling fires roast sweet-smelling chestnuts, a Swiss favourite.

Strung out like tinsel beneath the pine trees (and the occasional palm tree) the stalls stretch for a kilometer along the lakeside promenade.

When you’re shopped out there are plenty of small cafes. You can curl up on the sheepskins or huddle beneath warm blankets for a cinnamon-scented hot chocolate or a spicy mulled wine.

Undoubtedly the highlight of this market is the famous ‘Flying Santa’. Complete with reindeer, sledge, and a sack load of presents Santa makes a dash above the lake three times a day until December 24th. Hopefully, by then he’ll have got my address right and will be dashing to the other side of the lake!

There’s also an ‘Elves Workshop’ in the grounds of the Montreux Casino just in case you need to check that he really did get your letter this year.

photo by M.V. Jantzen

If you’re looking for a Christmas market that guarantees a heart-warming, fuzzy feeling then this is the one. It would be hard not to find the perfect present here.

Photo on Pixabay

The Montreux market is open from November 18th – December 24th, 2022, and from 11 am – 8 pm on weekdays and to 10 pm on Fridays and Saturdays. It opens at 10 am at weekends.

Santa’s Mountain Workshop – Rochers de Naye

If all that excitement isn’t enough for you then there’s always a visit to Santa’s Mountain Top Workshop. Situated at the peak of the snow-covered Rocher-de-Naye it’s accessible only by mountain railway from Montreux. You can find more details here.

Photo by Pixabay

Return fares for adults are CHF 32 and CHF 19 for children (6-16). depart Montreux hourly from 9:17 am to 3:47 pm. Booking in advance is recommended.

Dreaming of a white Christmas

Medieval Christmas at Château Chillon

The magnificent Château Chillon, close to Montreux, is celebrating a mediaeval Christmas this year.  With a forest of Christmas trees, donkeys, and rabbits, there’ll be choral music and dancers. There’s also an opportunity to make your own figgy pudding (or medieval equivalent) and a fairly lethal mediaeval spiced wine drink. There’ll also be candle-making workshops and heaps of other activities for the children.

Discover more about the mediaeval Christmas at the château here

Three weekends 3-4, 10-11, and 17-18 December 2022

Evian Les Bains and the ‘Flottins’

Photo by Georges Ménagers on Flickr

Every year the small lakeside town of Evian in the Haute Savoie welcomes the ‘Flottins’.  These mythical elves wash down into the lake from their homes in the mountains during winter storms. Lake Geneva is full of floating wood at this time of year.

Photo by Georges Ménagers on Flickr

The ‘Flottins’ collect the wood and create a temporary village in the main square in Evian for the festive season.  Its floodlit mythical beasts, wooden dens, intricate towers, and fantastical animals are made from the flotsam of the lake. It’s a place of wonder and excitement for young and old.

Each day the Flottins gather around small fires and tell tales of magic and mystery to wide-eyed children. Adults can sip their hot wine and enjoy an Elixir des Flottins. Listening to music from a piano suspended over the village.

This year’s theme is ‘Monstres Lacustres et Autres Poiscailles’, definitely fishy, with sculptures of sardines suspended over the lake, and sharks, whales, and sirens adding to the fun.

Father Christmas will arrive on 14th December at 18h00. He leaves again on 24th December at 17h30, just in time to get those presents delivered.

The Flottins return to their snow-covered mountain homes in style on 2nd January. They wave goodbye from on board the old sailing ship, the Savoie.

There are many other wonderful Christmas markets, large and small, in the villages and towns around Lake Geneva.  As there’s far too many to tell you about here I’ve highlighted the ones I really love.

I hope you have the chance to enjoy them this year too.

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