I can’t offer you a lap of the circuit… but I can offer something almost as entertaining.

A wander through the city – when barriers are going up, the crowds haven’t quite arrived, and the whole place feels like it’s gearing up for something a little dramatic.

Start at the Places des Armes

Begin in Place des Armes, a short walk down from the Palais.

It’s lively in the mornings – proper local life rather than polished Monaco. Market stalls, bright fruit, the small of warm socca and pissaladière drifting through the square.

Cafés spill out under the arches, the shaded tables already taken by people who clearly know what they’re doing.

If you want one of those tables, book ahead. Or accept your fate and sit in the sun like the rest of us..

A few Monaco observations

• Men in tight suits….no socks ‘de rigueur’
• Sunglasses that probably cost more than your holiday
• An unexpected obsession with mashed potato

Yes, really.

Monaco may be the land of yachts and supercars, but its also the kingdom of the mashed potato. It’s everywhere. On every menu. And, slightly annoyingly, it’s excellent.

Grand Prix build-up

Even in April, Monaco is already preparing for its most important event of the year – the Grand Prix.

Grandstands rise in neat blue rows. Metal barriers line the streets. The whole town begins to feel like a stage set.

And the strange thing is – even without a race car – you can still feel the excitement.

Drive the circuit in an ordinary car (a humble Fiat 500 will do just fine) and suddenly you’re noticing the bends, the climbs, the impossibly tight corners. You start to imagine the noise, the speed, the crowds leaning over the barriers.

It’s a car lover’s paradise – the kind of place that makes you want to ditch the glitz and head straight for the Route des Grandes Alpes.

Outside the casino, every day feels like a private motor show.

Cars glide in, gleaming, engines purring. Doors click shut, and for a moment you’re not quite sure who’s on display – the cars or their owners.

Lunch, here, is a performance.

Cafés, casinos and slight disappointments

Opposite the square, the Café de Paris is perfect for people watching. The rich, the famous, and the wannabes.

Over a cappuccino. Add a glass of fresh orange juice. Sit back and enjoy the theatre. You could easily convince yourself you’re in a film.

Then, of course, there is the famous casino.

You can peek inside – and you probably should – but manage your expectations.
‘The Man Who Broke the Bank at Monte Carlo’ turns out to be ….a rather oversized cartoon figure surrounded by giant Monopoly money.

Not quite the glamour I’d imagined.

A touch of old Monaco

Monaco does have history beneath the gloss.

Grace Kelly lived here. Married Prince Rainier. Became part of the story.

The royal palace, perched above the town, is open to visitors. It doesn’t reveal much of royal life, but inside – frescoes, marble, quiet opulent rooms – there’s a surprising sense of calm. An oasis away from the noise below.

Yachts (of course)

You can’t come to Monaco and ignore the yachts.

These aren’t boats. They’re floating worlds. Fully crewed, multi-million pound, five-star residences. Monaco doesn’t really do understatement.

They line the harbour in front of the Yacht Club – white, gleaming, slightly unreal. Strolling past them you can’t help wondering who owns them…and what their lives look like.

A changing coastline

To the east, Monaco is still growing.

A new stretch of reclaimed land is being transformed into a sandy beach with sun loungers, backed by restaurants and bars. It’s a long way from the relatively natural unspoilt beaches of Lake Geneva but it’s clean, bright, and unmistakably designed to please.

It’s already popular, and certain to be more so in the summer months.

Getting around

Monaco is surprisingly easy to navigate:

Hop-on-hop-off bus: about €26 for the day
Local buses: cheap and frequent
Walking: often the best option (if you don’t mind hills)

If you’re staying in Menton for example – the coastal train takes about 15 minutes, and the views are worth the journey alone.

A walk worth doing

If you have the time (and the energy), walk along the coastal path into Monaco.

It takes around two hours and passes some stunning spots – including the Eileen Gray house and villas once stayed in by Winston Churchill while he painted the beauty of the Riviera.

There’s a café at Beaulieu about halfway. You’ll need it.

Bring water, good shoes, and sun protection. This is not a stroll to underestimate.

And finally…

Yes, Monaco can feel excessive. There’s constant building work. Too many people. Too much money on display. And yet…

It still has glamour… it still has atmosphere… and it still has sunshine.

Would James Bond like it?  I don’t think he’d be shaken.

But he’d definitely be stirred.

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