places • events • seasonal moments

On my radar
I’ve got my eye on a small exhibition in Lausanne, at the Musée cantonal des Beaux-Arts or MCBA, Plateforme 10.

Called French Painting 1800 – 1945: Anatomy of a Collection, it features the works of Corot, Courbet, Degas, Cézanne, Matisse and Bonnard, all from the museum’s own collection.

This really appeals to my love of French art so I’ll be sure to catch it when I’m there.

• Dates: until August 16, 2026
• Location: MCBA, Place de la Gare 16 (Plateforme 10 Arts District)
• Hours: Tuesday to Sunday 10 :00 AM – 6 PM

On the menu
One of my favourite signs of summer around the lake — fera back in the shops and appearing on restaurant menus again.

If you’re ordering, it’s worth reading carefully: not every ‘fera du lac’ has actually come from Lac Léman. 

You’ll find little fishing boats like this moored in small ports around the lake.

Although there are fewer and fewer of them, the traditional way of fishing still survives here, with nets marked by floating buoys and catches changing with the seasons.

If you’d like to try lake fish yourself, I’d recommend browsing at Du Léman à l’Océan in Evian. Alongside seafood and prepared dishes, they usually have local lake fish in season. They also prepare platters of seafood to take down to the beach.

Around the lake
Evian is preparing for the G7 summit (15-17 June) and there’s already a different atmosphere around the region — extra security, border measures and more activity than usual on both sides of the lake.

If you’re visiting this month, it’s worth checking local arrangements before setting off.

On the water
The Bol d’Or du Léman has just taken place — hundreds of yachts racing the length of the lake.

Fanny Schertzer / Wikimedia Commons

Apparently these beauties are Decision 35s, high performance 35 foot catamarans developed specially for inland waters like Lake Geneva. 

This year saw their offspring, the TF35 ‘flying catamaran’ take to the water. Their hydrofoils allow them to rise clear above the surface of the water and skim across the lake. 

How exhilerating!

If you missed it this year, put it on your list for next June.

Fresh from the Balcony

I’ve given one of my most-read posts a summer refresh — Here Comes the Sun, my guide to beaches around Lake Geneva.

The post June 2026 appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

Sort on time? Here’s the quick version. Every July Evian becomes home to one of the biggest events in women’s golf. The atmosphere is surprisingly relaxed, the setting above Lake Geneva is spectacular and with a bit of planning it’s far more accessible than you might think. 

‘Silence!’ bellows a formidable woman from the edge of the course. A ripple of anticipation runs through the crowd, peering over each other’s shoulders to get a better look.

A young woman steps on to the tee carrying a golf club almost as tall as herself. She settles herself with absolute precision in front of the ball. There’s an audible inhale from the spectators.

She raises the club. It glints like a rapier in the sunlight. You don’t see it strike the ball, but you certainly hear it… cracking like a pistol shot.

The ball soars into the sky seeming to touch the clouds, and lands… ten feet from the hole.

There’s a gasp of astonishment from the crowd, who then shuffle on in unison to the next vantage point.

A major Championship on Lake Geneva

But these young women aren’t just playing for adulation. They’re playing for a massive $9.1 million prize pot.

This is the Amundi Evian Championship, home to the famous Pink Sunday celebration.  It’s one of the five major championships on the LPGA Tour, and one of the most prestigious events in women’s golf.

Held each July in Evian-les-Bains, the tournament attracts the world’s best female golfers to one of the most beautiful championship settings in Europe.

And it’s right here… in Evian, set between Lake Geneva and the mountains.

This isn’t Scottish links golf

Golf has come a long way since it was invented, arguably, in Scotland.

The only thing that’s high velocity on a Scottish links course is the wind, and the occasional sheep. But there is something charming about courses where you can still find honesty boxes for your green fee.

Where you spend most of the day waist high in gorse bushes looking for your ball. And where the horizontal rain fades to a memory in the warmth of an old clubhouse… where you replay and embellish every shot over a soup and sandwich.

It’s a world away from the glamour and sophistication of the women’s LPGA competition on the manicured fairways of Evian Resort Golf Club.

This 4-day event takes place every July and it’s more than just about the golf. It’s a four-day festival

Inside the Championship village 

Evian is all about the style. From the moment you arrive, you realise this isn’t just an elite golf competition; it’s a massive summer garden party.

As a prize winning ‘ville fleurie’, Evian’s famous for its floral displays.  At the golf course the Evian groundsmen fill the flower beds with an abundance of blooms, enveloping the club house in a riot of colour. Mostly pink of course. Why pink? You’ll find out later.

Sponsors and shopping 

Before you even reach the fairways, you navigate a galaxy of luxury sponsor’s tents.

You can buy an official Amundi Evian sunhat (essential for most days) and expensive sunglasses.

And what about that heavy-duty golf umbrella designed to resist the wind when you finally return home to Scotland, or wherever.

You can slip past the Rolex pavilion or perhaps find yourself tempted in by a tanned sales assistant with teeth as dazzlingly white as the canvas of the marquees.

Getting around the course 

Small golf buggies whizz along the pathways that wind around the fairways.   Some are ferrying spectators towards the grandstand bordering the 18th hole.

Others are heading for the champagne tents, and some are simply just soaking up the spectacular views of the mountains and Lake Geneva.

Next to the clubhouse the towering leader boards display the competitor’s names, a wonderfully international mix of young athletes. All vying to be the absolute best in the world.

Nearby, the gleaming trophies stand proudly on their plinths, waiting for that iconic podium moment on the final day.

Pink Sunday

And what a final day it is. There’s really nothing else like it.

Imagine a massive bubble of chewing gum exploding over the course, covering the crowd, the players, the technical staff, and the press. Pink is everywhere.

Because this is Pink Sunday.

It has long been a tradition for everyone to wear pink on the final day of the competition.

Pink and white are the globally recognised colours of the Evian water company (and by extension, the Evian Resort which owns the golf club and hosts the tournament).

Not only is this an incredibly clever piece of corporate marketing, but it also injects a fun, festival feel into the entire day.

The pink theme even follows the eventual winner onto the podium. As she raises the trophy triumphantly overhead she’s showered in pink eco-friendly confetti.

And for some reason, a giant bottle of Evian water always manages to be part of the scene.

When Zinedine Zidane came to Evian

But he’s a footballer, isn’t he?  Yes, but there’s also a more community-focused side to Pink Sunday.

The tournament partners with the European Leucodystrophy Association (ELA), a charity dedicated to supporting families fighting leukodystrophy.

Each year, during the tournament, there’s a charity football match between ‘Evian staff and guests’ and a ‘Players and Caddies’ team.

The LPGA players and their caddies trade their golf shoes for football boots in this legendary charity football match.

They line up against a team of Evian resort staff and celebrity guests — which over the years has included French football royalty like Zinedine Zidane.

Zidane just happens to be a high-profile honorary member of ELA.

When golf gives back 

The corporate stakes are high: the tournament sponsors donate €500 to the charity for every goal scored, which one year resulted in around 36 goals.

Now, given that Evian’s parent company is a multi-billion-euro empire… and the tournament boasts a staggering $ 9.1 million prize pot… a few hundred euros per goal is hardly going to break the corporate bank.

But corporate public relations aside, the match itself injects some genuine, light-hearted fun into an otherwise high-stress week.

So, when you see that sea of pink flooding the greens on Sunday, you’re looking at an event that at the very least — knows how to throw an excellent party, with a nod to a worthy cause.

Can ordinary golfers play in Evian?

If, like me, you’ re not quite up to competition standard yet, ahem, or your purse won’t stretch to the eye-watering green fees of the Evian Golf Club, then don’t despair.

There’s always the wonderful Evian Golf Academy. One of my favourite corners of Evian.

Whether you just want to practise your chipping, work on your swing or play the short course, the Academy offers you the chance to do all of that, in beautiful surroundings — and I’ll be sharing a short guide very soon.

Planning your visit to the Amundi Evian Championship

•  Quick Practical Tips

If you’re planning to head down to the fairways to catch the action live, here’s everything you need to know to survive and enjoy tournament week.

• Tickets & Entry: Tickets must be bought in advance via the official Amundi Evian Championship website. You can buy single-day passes or full four-day tournament badges. Children under 18 usually get in free when accompanied by an adult, making it a great family day out.
• The Pink Sunday Dress Code: Consider yourself officially warned! If you’re attending the final round on Sunday, pack something pink. Whether it’s a bright linen shirt, a pastel cap, a pair of loud trousers, or pink accessories,  you’ll want to fit into the sea of pink.
• Getting to Evian les Bains: if you’re coming from across the lake, the easiest route is the N1 passenger ferry from Lausanne to Evian, which takes about 35 minutes. If traveling by train, Evian’s station has direct links from Geneva and Annemasse.
• Getting to the Course: Parking can be tricky if you drive directly to the golf club during tournament week. Instead use the free tournament shuttle buses that run constantly from the Evian train station and designated public park-and-ride (parking relais) lots around town.
• For more specific information and updates check out the Amundi Evian Championship Official Practical Info page

Whether you go for the world-class sporting drama, the friendly village atmosphere, or just to marvel at a sea of pink against the blue backdrop of Lac Léman, it’s an unforgettable summer day out in the Haute-Savoie.

The post A Spectator’s Guide to the Amundi Evian Golf Championship appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

Set against a backdrop of the French Alps, Évian gazes confidently across Lake Geneva towards Switzerland.

This is a town built on water.

Lake Geneva laps at its feet while the mountains behind provide its source of life…yes …more water.

For centuries people have visited Évian hoping the mineral waters might restore their health, energy and youth. ‘Live Young’ was the motto of the water company for many years.

In fact, Évian water underpins the whole town. It bubbles from fountains, fills the Lido, funds the luxury hotels and waters the flower beds.

But there’s far more to Évian-les-Bains than bottled water. Spend a day wandering its lakeside promenades, visiting the Belle Époque buildings, the cafés and markets and you quickly understand why it’s become one of the most elegant and atmospheric towns on Lake Geneva.

Does it rejuvenate you?

Well, maybe the jury’s out on that one, but I’m pretty sure that a day out or a short stay in Évian will put a spring in your step.

Ferries criss-cross Lake Geneva throughout the day, connecting Évian with towns and cities around the lake including Lausanne and Geneva.

Each day they glide into the jetty and unload eager tourists from Switzerland.

Évian may be expensive by French standards but compared to Switzerland it can feel almost reasonable — which probably also explains the steady stream of Swiss registered cars in the supermarket car parks.

And the joy of Évian is that most of its highlights can easily be explored on foot, in a single leisurely day.

Where Évian meets the lake

Let’s start with the promenades, stretching along the waterfront from the Lido, past the marina and on towards the pebble beaches and cafés of the Petite Rive

This is where your rejuvenation begins … breathing the fresh ozone-filled air of the lake as you stroll along the promenades.  Perfect for relaxing, unwinding and a little people-watching.

Try keeping pace with yachts with their billowing sails or sit and watch swans glide effortlessly past.

On a sunny day, sit beneath the palm trees at one of the little turquoise kiosks, and sip strong French coffee or a chilled glass of rosé.

The best way to see the town is on foot, particularly if, like me, you love discovering narrow backstreets and hidden corners.

But if you prefer a more leisurely approach, there’s always the little tourist train.

Exploring Évian on Le Petit Train

Catch the little tourist train on the quayside opposite the Casino. It offers a 45-minute guided tour of the town which includes the imposing buildings that give Évian its special character.

A Perfect Day in Évian-les-Bains

The Source Cachat and Évian’s famous waters

This is what all the fuss is about. This is the source of Évian’s liquid gold.

The Cachat spring has flowed continuously since 1905. It’s watched over by a graceful statue representing the purity, health and abundance associated with its healing water.

You can fill your bottles with Évian water here for free and there’s often a queue of locals doing just that.

Less well known, and… let’s whisper this… in my humble opinion, better … is the Source Cordelier, just a little further along the road.  Why not try both and see which you prefer.

A Pause at the Buvette Cachat

Now step inside the remarkable Buvette Cachat and admire the sparkling stained-glass windows and intricate wooden ceiling.  It’s an Art Nouveau masterpiece.

In the early 1900’s this was the place to socialise while drinking the mineral waters. There was a reading room, a music hall with orchestras playing and waiting rooms for ferry passengers.

After a seven-year restoration project, the building has finally reopened to the public.

Cafés, Shops and Belle Époque Streets

Hopefully a sip of water from the source has perked you up enough to head along the rue Nationale, the main shopping street in Évian.

Unlike most towns, Évian has retained its small independent shops and avoided the large multinational chains, (apart from a little Monoprix tucked by the tourist office)

The main shopping street is a mix of elegant clothing, bookshops, cafés and patisseries, tempting you in from the street.

Prices in some shops reflect the affluent Swiss clientele, but there are still bargains to be found.

My favourite café is Couleur Café, with its delicious homemade cakes. For lunch try the Pédalo, a Breton pancake restaurant serving sparkling Breton ciders alongside inventive sweet or savoury crêpes.

From the rue Nationale head downhill towards the funicular that will take you up above the town to admire the views.

Évian’s little metro

Opened in 1907, the funicular has often been called Évian’s little metro. Every 20 minutes it trundles its way from the lower station, just behind the Palais Lumière, up to the heights of Évian.

From the top station there are panoramic views of Lake Geneva towards Switzerland.

The wooden seats and stately pace transport you to another era.

It was originally built to carry spa visitors from the town up to the luxurious hotels and villas of the Mateirons district.  Hotels like the Royal and the Hermitage still overlook the lake today.

Nearby, the remarkable Grange au Lac concert hall attracts internationally renowned orchestras and performers.

The train is also completely free.

Art and elegance at the Palais Lumière

Opposite the lower funicular station, you’ll find the book shop entrance to the Palais Lumière.

This is one of the most striking buildings on the waterfront, its huge glass dome reflecting the light from the lake.

Once devoted to thermal treatments, it is now one of Évian’s main cultural centres.

Each year the Palais Lumière hosts large travelling exhibitions devoted to iconic artists, writers and public figures.  Recent exhibitions have been devoted to Picasso, Delvaux, and Man Ray.

This summer’s exhibition focuses on the legendary actress Sarah Bernhardt.

Although the exhibitions are paying, you can still wander through the bookshop and into the lobby. To admire the mosaics and the four seasons as you go.

French Flags and Belle Époque Grandeur

Just next door is the Mairie, instantly recognisable by the French flags fluttering from its façade.

Built in classical French Belle Époque style it’s flamboyant and fun.

Don’t miss the enormous classical sculptures flanking the entrance doors at the side of the building.

If you’ve been swept away by the romance of Lake Geneva and Évian, you can get married here. Inside the Mairie is a stunning glittering gold salon. It’s open to the public on certain days and worth a visit.

At least your wedding photos won’t be boring.

The Casino and Évian’s Belle Époque glamour

The Évian Casino has long been one of the town’s great Belle Époque landmarks.

At the time of writing, the casino’s undergoing restoration following a devastating fire earlier this year.

When fully reopened it’ll once again offer gaming tables, restaurants and bars. Before the fire, the newest restaurant, The Terrace du Baron, had begun building an excellent reputation for fine dining.

Hopefully, it won’t be long before it returns.

Don’t forget the sundowner

Before you leave, head down towards the marina and settle into one of the terraced cafés with a coffee or a glass of wine while watching mildly stressed people trying to moor their boats.

The sunsets from Évian are legendary, so perhaps…. you could just stay an extra day and enjoy even more of what Évian has to offer.

If you’re staying longer

• If a single day in Évian isn’t enough — and honestly, it probably won’t be — here are a few more places worth exploring.
• The Thermes d’Évian – luxurious spa treatments and thermal wellness experiences
• The Lido –floating platforms, mountain views and one of the best summer swimming spots on the lake
• The Petite Rive – relaxed waterfront cafés, pebble beaches and a slower pace of life
• Villa Châtelet – an elegant historic villa with beautiful grounds
• The Théâtre – check local listings for concerts, performances and cultural events
• The Golf Academy – one of the most scenic golfing settings anywhere around Lake Geneva
• The Royal Hotel & Hermitage – Évian’s grand Belle Époque palace hotels, overlooking the lake in extravagant style
• Chill out time – good for watching the sunsets

Sunset hour by the lake – absolutely non-negotiable

How to Get to Évian

Evian is surprisingly easy to reach from both France and Switzerland.

Regular ferries cross Lake Geneva between Évian with Lausanne throughout the day.

From Geneva Airport you can drive in around an hour and twenty minutes.

Trains run from Geneva and Bellegarde via Annemasse and Thonon-les-Bains.

In summer, lake steamers and ferries make arriving by water particularly memorable.

If you’re staying in nearby resorts such as Thollon les Memises, Bernex or Lugrin, Évian also makes an ideal day trip.

The post Évian-les-Bains: The Most Elegant Town on Lake Geneva? appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

Maybe you’re curious to see villas and gardens hidden from the road, or little secluded beaches that the locals keep to themselves. Perhaps you want to explore small ports that once sheltered fishing boats from storms.

On a hot summer’s day, when the lake is like a mirror, the only breeze to be found is out on the water. Sooner or later, most people want to get afloat.

We could, of course, build a raft from the driftwood that washes down from the mountains. But quite honestly, there are much more stylish ways to get afloat.

Quick Guide: Best Ways to Get on Lake Geneva

–  Best for views & atmosphere: CGN paddle steamers
–  Best for history & charm: The Savoie
– Best for independence: Small power boats
– Best for budget & ease: Ferries
– Best for families: Pedalos and paddleboards

CGN Paddle Steamers

The Swiss registered CGN Belle Epoque fleet operates eight paddle-steamers from around 1900 on Lake Geneva, and they’re stunning.

Their sleek white hulls glide effortlessly along the lake, linking the main waterside towns on both the French and Swiss shores.  Their giant paddles churn the water like a witch’s cauldron.

As the paddle-steamer approaches the jetty there’s a long blast on the horn. Clouds of white steam billow from the funnels and the Swiss flag flutters proudly from its stern.

Children jostle on the jetty, hoping to be first along the wobbly gangplank and grab the best deckchairs on the upper decks. Day-trippers head to the Belle Epoque restaurant, with its plush carpet, varnished wood and polished brass. The panoramic windows frame the mountains that seem to rise straight from the lake.

CGN offers everything  from ‘Wine Tasting on the Deck’ to the ‘History and Culture of the French Riviera’. There are breakfast cruises,  sunset cruises and just plain ‘put your feet up and relax’ cruises.

Not a bad way to spend a day.

The Savoie (Historic Sailing Boat)

If a paddle steamer is a little too hi-tech for you, there’s always the Savoie.  A replica of a 19^th century wooden trading vessel, permanently moored in Evian.

The Savoie sails most weekends from May until October.  Whether she unfurls her magnificent double sails depends heavily on the ‘meteo’.

Even without sails it’s a wonderful way to be out on the water.  You can sit on the deck, listen to the creaking of the wooden hull as it lists gently, and hear echoes of the lake’s trading past.

Power Boats on Lake Geneva

Small power boats fill the marinas of the lake.  It’s still possible to pick up a bargain on the ‘Bon Coin’ but finding a mooring is like gold dust.

We were lucky enough to find a small day boat that came with a mooring. With an RYA Powerboat Level 2 certificate and ICC (International Certificate of Competence) we could get out on the water whenever the sun shone.

I’m still not entirely sure where the ‘Competence’ bit came in.

We quickly discovered how difficult it is to manoeuvre a boat in a packed marine. Steer left and it goes right, steer right and it goes left. Basically, it just has a mind of its own —which makes the whole parking situation something of a spectator sport.

“Just let it drift” … was the less-than-calm instruction. “No, don’t pull that rope…just don’t touch anything…just…oh for goodness’ sake” (or words to that effect).

As the boat wedges itself — not lengthways but sideways — between two perfectly moored boats. Much to the amusement of the onlookers.

Exit one slightly frazzled crew member.

Rental Power Boats (No Licence Needed)

If you don’t want the commitment, you can still rent a small, speed-limited powerboat without a license from a kiosk on the front in Evian. They seat 4 comfortably and you can cruise slowly along the promenades, admiring the views.

However, if you’re simply after the experience of being on the water at Lake Geneva then I’d honestly recommend the Savoie or CGN paddle steamer.

Ferries Across Lake Geneva

There’s always the ever popular commuter ferries that ply their way back and forth from Evian to Lausanne, and link towns all around the lake.  They can be pricey, and it’s best to avoid peak commuting times if you want to get a seat.

If you’re planning a daytrip to Lausanne or the vineyards of the Vaud then your ferry ticket can even include the metro that takes you from the quayside up into the city. Lausanne, as you’ll quickly discover, is very hilly.

Sailing and Yachts

Sailing schools dot the lake.  The one in Evian sits next to the marina and offers sailing lessons for children as young as four.  A colourful line of small catamarans and Lasers stretches along the jetty, all available to rent.

As for the larger yachts, I’m afraid I can’t help much there — but the yacht club might be a good place to start.

Paddleboards and Pedalos

For something a little more laid back, why not try paddle boarding?  While the Lake can feel a little intimidating in places, there are plenty of small beaches where you can rent paddle boards by the hour and enjoy a dip.

One of the best spots is Excenevex, a long sandy beach that shelves gently into the water. Stay close to the shore and you’ll never be in deeper than your waist — and the water’s noticeably warmer too.

Pedalos can be rented from most of the main beaches around the lake.

Which option should you choose?

If it’s your first visit – CGN
If you like independence – rent a boat
If you’re short on time – ferry
If it’s a hot day – paddleboards and pedalos
If you want something quieter – Savoie

However you choose to get out there — drifting lazily on a paddleboard, gripping the wheel of a slightly wayward day boat, or gliding across the lake on a Belle Epoque steamer — the magic is the same.

The shoreline looks different from the water. The mountains feel closer, the villages quieter. And before you know it, you’re not just looking at the lake anymore — you’re part of it, in a good way.

Practical tips for getting on the water

Best time of day:

Every day is different on the lake, and it also depends on the time of year. Assuming you’re visiting in summer, and from our own experience, avoiding the heat of early afternoons is a good plan.

You have little protection from the sun and, if you factor in the reflection from the water, you can quickly get sunburnt.  A breeze can also make it seem deceptively cool. Many people head out for an hour or so around 4pm and there can be less people in and out of the ports in the mornings.

Weather warning:

One thing you quickly realise is that the wind does exactly as it pleases. You start to read the clouds, watch for ripples in the distance, and feel the wind on your face.

There’s a system of orange flashing lights at strategic points all around the shoreline. Slow flashes mean you have time to get back to your home port before the storm hits. Rapid flashes mean head for the nearest port as quickly as you can.

From the balcony in Thollon, we could see the flashing lights and have time to bring in the dinner plates.

The best weather website for the lake at Evian is ‘Meteo Marine’. Looking at the forecast is vital before venturing out on the lake.

Booking Ahead (CGN):

All ferry information is available on the CGN website

Peak season notes:

Like any holiday destination it’s always best to book in advance to be guaranteed your place, especially for weekends or public holidays.

Rough price guide:

The main short cruises on the Savoie in Evian are currently:

Adults: around €13-18
Children: (6-12): around €8-10
Under 6’s: free

They also run longer themed cruises like sunset/music evenings: roughly €35-60 and full ‘Grand Lac’ day cruises with meal included: around €80

CGN prices vary depending on distance, route and whether you choose a simple crossing or one of the longer Belle Epoque cruises.

As a rough guide, expect to pay around €45-50 for a return crossing from Evian to Lausanne.  Longer lunch or sightseeing cruises can range from around €90-120 per person.

It’s always worth checking the CGN website in advance for current timetables and seasonal offers.

The post How to Get Out on Lake Geneva: Paddle Steamers, Boats and Ferries appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

And fair enough. They’re beautiful.

High above the lake, tucked into the mountains, there’s a small Alpine village that doesn’t need to make a fuss — it’s just one of the best places around.

Thollon-les-Mémises.

If you’ve ever stood by the lakeside and found yourself looking up at the mountains, wondering what’s up there …this is it — and if you’re discovering Thollon for the first time, think of this as a gentle introduction.

Still wondering whether it’s worth the detour — or what there actually is to do — the answer is more than you might think.

The view over Lake Geneva

There are views…and then there are views.

From Thollon, the whole of Lake Geneva opens out below you – wide, silvery, and constantly changing.  You can see right across to Switzerland — not just on a clear day, but every day — with Lausanne sitting quietly on the opposite shore and the boats tracing slow, deliberate paths across the water.

It’s one of those places where you find yourself stopping mid-sentence just to look.

And then stopping again five minutes later.

And again.

It’s a ski resort – and it depends when you go

Yes, Thollon is a ski resort.

But what it feels like depends entirely on when you’re there.

Come during the school holidays – Christmas, New Year, February – and it’s full-on. Car parks overflowing. Queues for the lifts. Children everywhere. That slightly frantic energy that builds up as everyone tries to make the most of their week in the mountains.

It can feel busy. Properly busy.

Then January arrives… and everything changes.

Suddenly it’s quieter. You recognise faces. There’s space again – on the slopes, in the cafés, even in the car park.

March sits somewhere in between. A bit more relaxed, but still with a sense of the season ticking along.

And then, right at the end, those last sunny weekends bring everyone back out again. One final burst -ending with a giant village party- before it all winds down again.

Same place. Completely different experiences.

If you’re after peace and quiet, avoid the school holidays. If you don’t mind a bit of chaos, you’ll fit right in.

It’s quite hard to beat.

Summer in Thollon has a life of its own

If winter belongs to the slopes, summer belongs to the lake.

And when the weather turns – properly warm, blue skies, that clear Alpine light – people head down. Not up.

The beaches along Lake Geneva fill quickly. Towels spread out early, children in and out of the water. It’s a different energy altogether.

Up in Thollon the lifts open again at the beginning of May, but this time for walkers. The mountain changes character completely — green replacing white, wildflowers appearing almost overnight along the paths

You can walk for hours here.

Sometimes properly, boots on, slightly out of breath.

Spend the morning up in the hills and be down by the water in the afternoon. It’s not about choosing between the mountains and the lake.

You get both.

The in-between seasons are when you really see it

This is the bit most people miss.

The weeks between winter and summer, when the snow retreats slowly up the mountain and the village seems to pause, take a breath, and reset.

Shops close for a while. The gondola stops. The carparks empty.

And suddenly you hear everything.

Water running everywhere as the snow melts. Birds you didn’t notice before. It’s quieter yes – but not in a sad way. More like the village is stretching after a long season and getting ready to begin again.

If you want to understand a place, come when nothing much is happening.

It’s just above Evian – but feels a world away

One of the nicest surprises about Thollon is how close it is to everything… and yet how separate it feels.

Evian is just down the road – lakeside cafés, boats coming and going, that slightly polished Riviera feel.

But a short drive up the mountain and you’re somewhere completely different.

Cooler air. Slower pace. Fewer people. Bigger views.

You can dip in and out of both worlds in a single day – morning coffee by the lake, afternoon up in the mountains, evening watching the light fade and the sunsets over the water.

It’s a very easy place to settle into.

So…is Thollon Worth Visiting?

If you’re looking for somewhere in the French Alps that combines mountain air, lake views and a slightly more understated kind of charm – then yes.

Very much so.

It doesn’t try too hard. It doesn’t need to. But it stays with you.

And once you’ve been, you tend to find yourself looking up at those mountains from the lakeside and thinking…

I know what’s up there.

The post 5 Things You Didn’t Know About Thollon-les-Mémises (above Lake Geneva) appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

Maybe here in the beautiful Haute Savoie.

Yes, the circus is coming to town and the Alps are buzzing with excitement

The 2026 Tour de France runs from 4-26 July and starts with a dramatic Grand Départ in Barcelona, before sweeping back to France and finishing in Paris.

The official route is 3,333 km over 21 stages.

It includes legendary Alpine giants such as Alpe d’Huez and the Col du Galibier, the highest point (“roof”) of the Tour at 2,642 m.  It’s without a doubt one of the world’s toughest endurance races.

With 23 teams this year and eight cyclists in each team, 184 riders in total, the atmosphere on the mountain roads and lakeside stretches will be even more electric.

Each year millions of people line the route of the Tour de France to experience the exhilaration and sheer razzmatazz of this extraordinary event.

Not only are there the 184 cyclists, but there are also over 4 500 support and technical staff accompanying the race.

The Tour returns to my corner of Lake Geneva

This year the Tour de France travels from Barcelona through the Pyrenees, the Alps and finally to Paris – but what caught my eye was Stage 16, when the riders race along the lakeside road between Évian and Thonon, a road familiar to anyone who knows this corner of France.

Stage 16 Evian – Thonon is scheduled for Tuesday, 21 July 2026

The day before, Monday 20th July, is the Tour’s rest day in the Haute Savoie. By the time Tuesday arrives the whole area will be buzzing. There’ll be team buses and support cars galore, roads might already have restrictions and camper vans will be parked up everywhere.

The cafes and bars in each town and village in the Haute Savoie will be full of lively discussions about who’ll wear the yellow jersey this year.

By Tuesday, 21 July, after the rest day, the lakeside road between Évian and Thonon will hum with anticipation as the riders set off one by one against the clock.

Plan to arrive on Monday evening if you want the best roadside spots!

Other beautiful route highlights

This year’s route is wonderfully mountainous and has been described as a crescendo route, building drama towards the Alps and Paris. Worth watching are:

•  the Pyrenees in week one
• Gavarnie-Gedre summit finish
• Plateau de Solaison (first time)
• Alpe d’Huez twice
• final Paris finish

The Razzmatazz

Preceding each stage of the race is the ‘not to be missed’ Caravane.  You’ll hear the Caravane arriving long before you see it. With it’s fanfare of popular summer hits, played at full blast, it’s a 20 km long procession of over 160 sponsors’ floats and cars.

The official Tour describes it as the “Tour and it’s partners” putting on a two-hour show before the riders.

To add to the Carnival atmosphere the sponsors throw around 16 million freebies, from keyrings and caps to sauce sachets, into the waiting crowds. The time it takes to pass the crowds is in stark contrast to the blur of the peloton a couple of hours later.

It’s all one giant party.

People sit for hours in stripey deckchairs beside the road, children wait excitedly with bags to fill with goodies. Helicopters swirl overhead filming the procession of giant product and sponsors vehicles.

In the distance you can hear the roar of the crowd as the riders appear and ….whooosh….they’ve gone in the blink of an eye.

Who’s Who

Even if you’re not a cycling devotee, it helps to know who the stars of the show are. It can be difficult to work out who’s in the overall lead and who’s  won each individual stage of the race.

Tour de France Prize 2026

The Tour ends triumphantly in Paris on July 26th 2026, after 21 days of gruelling cycling. On the final leg, the cyclists head up the crowd-filled Champs Elysées to the Arc de Triomphe where the overall winner is crowned champion.

A total of €2.3 million in prize money is divided among all cyclists in the various categories. For all the glamour, the yellow jersey winner receives €500,000 euros – usually shared among teammates, mechanics and support staff, which feels quite fitting as it’s without doubt a team effort.

Each stage winner takes home €11,000, the green jersey winner €25,000, polka dot €25,000 and the white jersey €20,000.

Of course, the real winners are the vast crowds that turn out to watch the theatre of it all – the caravan, the helicopters, the flags and the sudden flash of colour as 184 riders sweep past.

Where can I see the Tour?

Yes you could sit at home and watch it all on TV from the comfort of your sofa. But where’s the fun in that? Or you could plan ahead a little.

Check the official website of the Tour de France 2026 and the local tourist office websites.  They’ll tell you the exact route of each of the 21 stages, the starting and finishing times, and also the times of the local road closures.

Top Tips for Watching the Tour de France

• To get the best out of your day you’ll need to do a little homework.
• Check the official Tour de France website in late May for detailed maps of the route.
• You can also find all information you need in the detailed ‘2026 Tour de France Official Programme and Race Guide’  which is available to pre-order.
• While spectators tend to line almost the whole route, you’ll see more of the cyclists on uphill mountainous stretches. They tend to cycle more slowly and you’ll see more of them as they come toward you.
• Arrive early.  The Gendarmes close the roads early, often a couple of hours before the Caravane arrives, so it can be difficult to get to where you want to be.  You can find the times of road closures on the local tourist office websites.
• Take a fold-up stool or light portable chair with you, you could be standing for several hours otherwise.
• Remember to take a packed lunch and plenty of snacks and drinks.  French restaurants are fairly strict and only tend to open from 12 noon – 2 pm. You may not want to lose your viewing spot to look for food.
• Pack a sun hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, camera, binoculars, and maybe a light raincoat or poncho. The weather in the mountains can be a bit unpredictable.
• Check the weather forecast before you leave home

Oh, and don’t whatever you do, forget to take your goody bag. You never know when 26 sauce sachets and a novelty hat will come in handy.

The post Tour de France 2026 in Evian appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

Everyone’s heard of Geneva. Famous for its iconic fountain, home of the Red Cross and countless other international organisations, Geneva is one of the world’s most cosmopolitan, and expensive cities.

But, there are two sides to every story.

While the city of Geneva dabbles its toes in the waters at the western end of the lake the opposite end of the lake reaches out towards the soaring peaks of the French and Swiss Alps.

One of the largest inland lakes in Western Europe, Lake Geneva (or Lac Léman in French)  stretches for 73 km and covers an area of 580 km².

Peppering the northern shores are numerous small picturesque Swiss towns. Rolling hills and lush vineyards sweep gently down to the water’s edge.

On the southern side of the lake lies the French department of the Haute Savoie. Its magnificent snow-capped mountains offer breathtaking views and endless adventure.

A Natural Border

Lake Geneva forms a natural border between France and Switzerland. The borderline runs along the middle of this croissant-shaped lake for most of its length.

The Swiss side of the lake can be eye-wateringly expensive.

The Haute Savoie, however, on the southern French side, is considerably cheaper, but no less beautiful. Its lakeside and alpine villages offer a variety of inexpensive accommodation in both winter and summer.

Discover the shores of Lake Geneva

Here in the Haute Savoie, you can still enjoy the stunning scenery, the fabulous food, and the art de vivre of lakeside living, but at a fraction of the prices in Switzerland.

Stretching from the vibrant city of Geneva all the way to Mont Blanc, you can explore the medieval cobbled streets of Yvoire.

Why not take the waters at the chic spa town of Évian-les-Bains?

Play on the family-friendly ski slopes of Thollon les Mémises or tackle the more challenging runs in the Portes du Soleil from Châtel or Abondance.

Take a trip on the lake to wonder at the tumbling rock face in Meillerie.

Splash out and visit Switzerland, sampling the wines of Lavaux. Walk in the footsteps of Byron at Chateau Chillon.

Into the wild blue yonder

The post Welcome to Lake Geneva appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

Autumn in the Haute Savoie, is there a more beautiful place on earth? As summer fades to a distant memory, we’re still enjoying soft breezes and warm days. 

The skies are still azure blue, the sun still shining and the hillsides are a riot of colour. The thick forests of the Haute Savoie have cast off their assorted green hues and are clad in jewel-like rich golds, vibrant reds, and ambers.  It’s a last celebration of nature at its finest and one that, in my book, deserves an Oscar.

I can smell Autumn dancing in the breeze

On the Autumn menu

Autumn also has other gifts to offer.  Now that the grape harvests are over, it’s the turn of the humble mushroom, the fat succulent apple, and the soft golden pear to take centre stage. Not forgetting of course, the centuries-old French tradition of hunting, not my cup of tea, but extremely popular in the Haute Savoie.

Wild about the game

A recent conversation in our local supermarket went a bit like this…

‘Squirrel?  Nobody eats squirrel’!

‘Yes they do, look, it says there ‘chevreuil’, see…. ‘squirrel’.

Cue long-suffering look from other half. ‘That’s deer, a roe deer in fact’ he says rolling his eyes. ‘Are you sure’ I mutter peering closely at the label. Of course, he was right… as always. Autumn is when all sorts of strange things appear on the menus of local restaurants. It’s hunting season in France or ‘La Chasse’. Here in the Haute Savoie, the season lasts from 11 September 2022 to 15 January 2023.

Restaurants proudly advertise their ‘Carte de Chasse’ detailing a variety of ‘gibier’ or wild game, most with incomprehensible names. There’s the ‘Sanglier’ or wild boar which according to the hunters are overrunning the world, and baby wild boar or ‘Marcassin’ which look a lot less cute when they’re lying on a plate.

There are ‘chamois’, the majestic mountain goats you might have spotted clinging to a rock face.  There are the elusive ‘Pedrix’ or partridge, very tasty with honey and dried fruit apparently, not to mention the poor old pheasant, ‘le Faisan Sauvage’ who really doesn’t stand a chance.

Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness – John Keats

Basically, just about anything that moves in the forest from mid-September till February has a chance of ending up on a plate. Which is why we don’t walk or hike through the woods during the autumn months. But…..we do still enjoy all the other wonderful things that Autumn in the Haute Savoie has to offer.

Autumn Mushroom Foraging

Mushrooms! Hundreds of delicious mushrooms.  There’s a saying in English ‘to know your onions’ which means to know a lot about something, to be an expert. Here, it’s not onions that are important, it’s mushrooms.

Foraging for mushrooms is a favourite French pastime, (how they don’t all get shot in the forests is a mystery to me) but with over 3000 different varieties, many of them deadly, it pays to know your mushrooms.

The most popular types of foraged mushrooms in France are Girolles, Chanterelles, Ceps, Bolets and Morilles. If you’re hell-bent on picking your own then any French pharmacy will identify them for you free of charge. You’re also advised to take a photo of your mushrooms before you cook them so if you do keel over after eating them you can show the photo to the Anti-Poison Centre.

The etiquette of mushroom picking

Mushroom foraging has a certain etiquette. Far from wandering the countryside and filling your pockets with mushrooms, there are certain rules that should be followed. No foraging on private land without permission for one, and there are limits to the quantity you’re allowed to pick. Apparently, you should only use a wicker basket and the mushroom should be cut with a special curved blade. Who knew that the humble mushroom could be so exotic?

An apple a day…

While we’re on the subject of food…it’s also apple season in France.

There are apple festivals in many Haute Savoie villages around this time of year. At St Paul en Chablais they celebrated their ‘Fete de la Pomme’ last Sunday and it didn’t disappoint.

Small white tents dotted like mushrooms around the community centre sheltered everything from rural arts and crafts to beekeepers, from cheese sellers to jam makers.  Apart from the children carving small wooden toys with chisels and bandsaws, other highlights were the super-talented local orchestra rattling out a medley of big band sounds.

All of this accompanied by gallons of freshly pressed apple juice and a very quaffable ‘pommier’ made with white wine and apple syrup, a heady mixture that, I thought, made the band sound even better.

All this talk of autumnal food has reminded me of my favourite apple dessert, yes you’ve guessed, it’s the ubiquitous Tarte Tatin.  There are lots of delicious apple tart and apple cake recipes online. You might like this one by Raymond Blanc.

Autumn the year’s last loveliest smile

So, while Paris in the Spring offers romance, elegance, and sophistication, here in the Haute Savoie in Autumn you can be shot in the woods, poisoned by mushrooms and let your children run riot with a variety of wood carving tools.  What’s not to like?

 

The post Autumn in the Haute Savoie – A feast of Nature appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

A relaxing walk from Thollon to Col de Creusaz across rolling ‘alpages’ gives you fresh air, picnicking possibilities, and magnificent views of Évian, Lake Geneva, and the Swiss countryside. As well as a rewarding meal or drink in L’Alpage at the end.

This hike takes you to the Alpage restaurant at the Col de Creusaz. It can be complemented with an equally gentle walk around Mont Bénand or an altogether more challenging circuit of the dramatic Mont César.

The walk to Col de Creusaz and the Mont Bénand circuit are suitable for all with the exception of pushchairs. However, the optional Mont César circuit is more demanding and includes a near-vertical climb of several metres on a ladder.

Detailed hiking map

This walk, together with Thollon and all of the surrounding area, can be seen in greater detail on the relevant IGN Map 3528ET Morzine/Massif du Chablais/Portes du Soleil. The map is widely available in local sports shops, bookshops, and supermarkets as well as online.

Other walks and hiking tips

If you enjoyed reading about this hike, you might be interested in looking at some other hikes or more general tips for walking in the mountains. I plan to add more walks or hikes in the future, so please check back in to see what’s new.

• Walk from Thollon to Pic Boré
• Important tips for hiking in the mountains

The post Thollon-les-Memises to Col de Creusaz appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

An invigorating walk to the Pic Boré, offering spectacular views of Lake Geneva, the Chablais, and the Swiss Alps.

This hike takes you to the meeting point of 3 communes – Thollon, Bernex, and Novel. It also offers an attractive alternative route back to Thollon passing a pretty waterfall.

It can be made considerably easier by taking the télécabine at the beginning and end of the walk. However, the final climb to the peak makes it unsuitable for pushchairs, small children, or anyone with walking difficulties.

Detailed hiking map

This walk, together with Thollon and all of the surrounding area, can be seen in greater detail on the relevant IGN Map 3528ET Morzine/Massif du Chablais/Portes du Soleil. The map is widely available in local sports shops, bookshops, and supermarkets as well as online.

Other walks and hiking tips

If you enjoyed reading about this hike, you might be interested in looking at some other hikes or more general tips for walking in the mountains. I plan to add more walks or hikes in the future, so please check back in to see what’s new.

• Walk from Thollon to Col de Creusaz
• Important tips for hiking in the mountains

The post Thollon-les-Memises to Pic Boré appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.