Maybe you’re curious to see villas and gardens hidden from the road, or little secluded beaches that the locals keep to themselves. Perhaps you want to explore small ports that once sheltered fishing boats from storms.

On a hot summer’s day, when the lake is like a mirror, the only breeze to be found is out on the water. Sooner or later, most people want to get afloat.

We could, of course, build a raft from the driftwood that washes down from the mountains. But quite honestly, there are much more stylish ways to get afloat.

Quick Guide: Best Ways to Get on Lake Geneva

–  Best for views & atmosphere: CGN paddle steamers
–  Best for history & charm: The Savoie
– Best for independence: Small power boats
– Best for budget & ease: Ferries
– Best for families: Pedalos and paddleboards

CGN Paddle Steamers

The Swiss registered CGN Belle Epoque fleet operates eight paddle-steamers from around 1900 on Lake Geneva, and they’re stunning.

Their sleek white hulls glide effortlessly along the lake, linking the main waterside towns on both the French and Swiss shores.  Their giant paddles churn the water like a witch’s cauldron.

As the paddle-steamer approaches the jetty there’s a long blast on the horn. Clouds of white steam billow from the funnels and the Swiss flag flutters proudly from its stern.

Children jostle on the jetty, hoping to be first along the wobbly gangplank and grab the best deckchairs on the upper decks. Day-trippers head to the Belle Epoque restaurant, with its plush carpet, varnished wood and polished brass. The panoramic windows frame the mountains that seem to rise straight from the lake.

CGN offers everything  from ‘Wine Tasting on the Deck’ to the ‘History and Culture of the French Riviera’. There are breakfast cruises,  sunset cruises and just plain ‘put your feet up and relax’ cruises.

Not a bad way to spend a day.

The Savoie (Historic Sailing Boat)

If a paddle steamer is a little too hi-tech for you, there’s always the Savoie.  A replica of a 19^th century wooden trading vessel, permanently moored in Evian.

The Savoie sails most weekends from May until October.  Whether she unfurls her magnificent double sails depends heavily on the ‘meteo’.

Even without sails it’s a wonderful way to be out on the water.  You can sit on the deck, listen to the creaking of the wooden hull as it lists gently, and hear echoes of the lake’s trading past.

Power Boats on Lake Geneva

Small power boats fill the marinas of the lake.  It’s still possible to pick up a bargain on the ‘Bon Coin’ but finding a mooring is like gold dust.

We were lucky enough to find a small day boat that came with a mooring. With an RYA Powerboat Level 2 certificate and ICC (International Certificate of Competence) we could get out on the water whenever the sun shone.

I’m still not entirely sure where the ‘Competence’ bit came in.

We quickly discovered how difficult it is to manoeuvre a boat in a packed marine. Steer left and it goes right, steer right and it goes left. Basically, it just has a mind of its own —which makes the whole parking situation something of a spectator sport.

“Just let it drift” … was the less-than-calm instruction. “No, don’t pull that rope…just don’t touch anything…just…oh for goodness’ sake” (or words to that effect).

As the boat wedges itself — not lengthways but sideways — between two perfectly moored boats. Much to the amusement of the onlookers.

Exit one slightly frazzled crew member.

Rental Power Boats (No Licence Needed)

If you don’t want the commitment, you can still rent a small, speed-limited powerboat without a license from a kiosk on the front in Evian. They seat 4 comfortably and you can cruise slowly along the promenades, admiring the views.

However, if you’re simply after the experience of being on the water at Lake Geneva then I’d honestly recommend the Savoie or CGN paddle steamer.

Ferries Across Lake Geneva

There’s always the ever popular commuter ferries that ply their way back and forth from Evian to Lausanne, and link towns all around the lake.  They can be pricey, and it’s best to avoid peak commuting times if you want to get a seat.

If you’re planning a daytrip to Lausanne or the vineyards of the Vaud then your ferry ticket can even include the metro that takes you from the quayside up into the city. Lausanne, as you’ll quickly discover, is very hilly.

Sailing and Yachts

Sailing schools dot the lake.  The one in Evian sits next to the marina and offers sailing lessons for children as young as four.  A colourful line of small catamarans and Lasers stretches along the jetty, all available to rent.

As for the larger yachts, I’m afraid I can’t help much there — but the yacht club might be a good place to start.

Paddleboards and Pedalos

For something a little more laid back, why not try paddle boarding?  While the Lake can feel a little intimidating in places, there are plenty of small beaches where you can rent paddle boards by the hour and enjoy a dip.

One of the best spots is Excenevex, a long sandy beach that shelves gently into the water. Stay close to the shore and you’ll never be in deeper than your waist — and the water’s noticeably warmer too.

Pedalos can be rented from most of the main beaches around the lake.

Which option should you choose?

If it’s your first visit – CGN
If you like independence – rent a boat
If you’re short on time – ferry
If it’s a hot day – paddleboards and pedalos
If you want something quieter – Savoie

However you choose to get out there — drifting lazily on a paddleboard, gripping the wheel of a slightly wayward day boat, or gliding across the lake on a Belle Epoque steamer — the magic is the same.

The shoreline looks different from the water. The mountains feel closer, the villages quieter. And before you know it, you’re not just looking at the lake anymore — you’re part of it, in a good way.

Practical tips for getting on the water

Best time of day:

Every day is different on the lake, and it also depends on the time of year. Assuming you’re visiting in summer, and from our own experience, avoiding the heat of early afternoons is a good plan.

You have little protection from the sun and, if you factor in the reflection from the water, you can quickly get sunburnt.  A breeze can also make it seem deceptively cool. Many people head out for an hour or so around 4pm and there can be less people in and out of the ports in the mornings.

Weather warning:

One thing you quickly realise is that the wind does exactly as it pleases. You start to read the clouds, watch for ripples in the distance, and feel the wind on your face.

There’s a system of orange flashing lights at strategic points all around the shoreline. Slow flashes mean you have time to get back to your home port before the storm hits. Rapid flashes mean head for the nearest port as quickly as you can.

From the balcony in Thollon, we could see the flashing lights and have time to bring in the dinner plates.

The best weather website for the lake at Evian is ‘Meteo Marine’. Looking at the forecast is vital before venturing out on the lake.

Booking Ahead (CGN):

All ferry information is available on the CGN website

Peak season notes:

Like any holiday destination it’s always best to book in advance to be guaranteed your place, especially for weekends or public holidays.

Rough price guide:

The main short cruises on the Savoie in Evian are currently:

Adults: around €13-18
Children: (6-12): around €8-10
Under 6’s: free

They also run longer themed cruises like sunset/music evenings: roughly €35-60 and full ‘Grand Lac’ day cruises with meal included: around €80

CGN prices vary depending on distance, route and whether you choose a simple crossing or one of the longer Belle Epoque cruises.

As a rough guide, expect to pay around €45-50 for a return crossing from Evian to Lausanne.  Longer lunch or sightseeing cruises can range from around €90-120 per person.

It’s always worth checking the CGN website in advance for current timetables and seasonal offers.

The post How to Get Out on Lake Geneva: Paddle Steamers, Boats and Ferries appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

Maybe here in the beautiful Haute Savoie.

Yes, the circus is coming to town and the Alps are buzzing with excitement

The 2026 Tour de France runs from 4-26 July and starts with a dramatic Grand Départ in Barcelona, before sweeping back to France and finishing in Paris.

The official route is 3,333 km over 21 stages.

It includes legendary Alpine giants such as Alpe d’Huez and the Col du Galibier, the highest point (“roof”) of the Tour at 2,642 m.  It’s without a doubt one of the world’s toughest endurance races.

With 23 teams this year and eight cyclists in each team, 184 riders in total, the atmosphere on the mountain roads and lakeside stretches will be even more electric.

Each year millions of people line the route of the Tour de France to experience the exhilaration and sheer razzmatazz of this extraordinary event.

Not only are there the 184 cyclists, but there are also over 4 500 support and technical staff accompanying the race.

The Tour returns to my corner of Lake Geneva

This year the Tour de France travels from Barcelona through the Pyrenees, the Alps and finally to Paris – but what caught my eye was Stage 16, when the riders race along the lakeside road between Évian and Thonon, a road familiar to anyone who knows this corner of France.

Stage 16 Evian – Thonon is scheduled for Tuesday, 21 July 2026

The day before, Monday 20th July, is the Tour’s rest day in the Haute Savoie. By the time Tuesday arrives the whole area will be buzzing. There’ll be team buses and support cars galore, roads might already have restrictions and camper vans will be parked up everywhere.

The cafes and bars in each town and village in the Haute Savoie will be full of lively discussions about who’ll wear the yellow jersey this year.

By Tuesday, 21 July, after the rest day, the lakeside road between Évian and Thonon will hum with anticipation as the riders set off one by one against the clock.

Plan to arrive on Monday evening if you want the best roadside spots!

Other beautiful route highlights

This year’s route is wonderfully mountainous and has been described as a crescendo route, building drama towards the Alps and Paris. Worth watching are:

•  the Pyrenees in week one
• Gavarnie-Gedre summit finish
• Plateau de Solaison (first time)
• Alpe d’Huez twice
• final Paris finish

The Razzmatazz

Preceding each stage of the race is the ‘not to be missed’ Caravane.  You’ll hear the Caravane arriving long before you see it. With it’s fanfare of popular summer hits, played at full blast, it’s a 20 km long procession of over 160 sponsors’ floats and cars.

The official Tour describes it as the “Tour and it’s partners” putting on a two-hour show before the riders.

To add to the Carnival atmosphere the sponsors throw around 16 million freebies, from keyrings and caps to sauce sachets, into the waiting crowds. The time it takes to pass the crowds is in stark contrast to the blur of the peloton a couple of hours later.

It’s all one giant party.

People sit for hours in stripey deckchairs beside the road, children wait excitedly with bags to fill with goodies. Helicopters swirl overhead filming the procession of giant product and sponsors vehicles.

In the distance you can hear the roar of the crowd as the riders appear and ….whooosh….they’ve gone in the blink of an eye.

Who’s Who

Even if you’re not a cycling devotee, it helps to know who the stars of the show are. It can be difficult to work out who’s in the overall lead and who’s  won each individual stage of the race.

Tour de France Prize 2026

The Tour ends triumphantly in Paris on July 26th 2026, after 21 days of gruelling cycling. On the final leg, the cyclists head up the crowd-filled Champs Elysées to the Arc de Triomphe where the overall winner is crowned champion.

A total of €2.3 million in prize money is divided among all cyclists in the various categories. For all the glamour, the yellow jersey winner receives €500,000 euros – usually shared among teammates, mechanics and support staff, which feels quite fitting as it’s without doubt a team effort.

Each stage winner takes home €11,000, the green jersey winner €25,000, polka dot €25,000 and the white jersey €20,000.

Of course, the real winners are the vast crowds that turn out to watch the theatre of it all – the caravan, the helicopters, the flags and the sudden flash of colour as 184 riders sweep past.

Where can I see the Tour?

Yes you could sit at home and watch it all on TV from the comfort of your sofa. But where’s the fun in that? Or you could plan ahead a little.

Check the official website of the Tour de France 2026 and the local tourist office websites.  They’ll tell you the exact route of each of the 21 stages, the starting and finishing times, and also the times of the local road closures.

Top Tips for Watching the Tour de France

• To get the best out of your day you’ll need to do a little homework.
• Check the official Tour de France website in late May for detailed maps of the route.
• You can also find all information you need in the detailed ‘2026 Tour de France Official Programme and Race Guide’  which is available to pre-order.
• While spectators tend to line almost the whole route, you’ll see more of the cyclists on uphill mountainous stretches. They tend to cycle more slowly and you’ll see more of them as they come toward you.
• Arrive early.  The Gendarmes close the roads early, often a couple of hours before the Caravane arrives, so it can be difficult to get to where you want to be.  You can find the times of road closures on the local tourist office websites.
• Take a fold-up stool or light portable chair with you, you could be standing for several hours otherwise.
• Remember to take a packed lunch and plenty of snacks and drinks.  French restaurants are fairly strict and only tend to open from 12 noon – 2 pm. You may not want to lose your viewing spot to look for food.
• Pack a sun hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, camera, binoculars, and maybe a light raincoat or poncho. The weather in the mountains can be a bit unpredictable.
• Check the weather forecast before you leave home

Oh, and don’t whatever you do, forget to take your goody bag. You never know when 26 sauce sachets and a novelty hat will come in handy.

The post Tour de France 2026 in Evian appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

Everyone’s heard of Geneva. Famous for its iconic fountain, home of the Red Cross and countless other international organisations, Geneva is one of the world’s most cosmopolitan, and expensive cities.

But, there are two sides to every story.

While the city of Geneva dabbles its toes in the waters at the western end of the lake the opposite end of the lake reaches out towards the soaring peaks of the French and Swiss Alps.

One of the largest inland lakes in Western Europe, Lake Geneva (or Lac Léman in French)  stretches for 73 km and covers an area of 580 km².

Peppering the northern shores are numerous small picturesque Swiss towns. Rolling hills and lush vineyards sweep gently down to the water’s edge.

On the southern side of the lake lies the French department of the Haute Savoie. Its magnificent snow-capped mountains offer breathtaking views and endless adventure.

A Natural Border

Lake Geneva forms a natural border between France and Switzerland. The borderline runs along the middle of this croissant-shaped lake for most of its length.

The Swiss side of the lake can be eye-wateringly expensive.

The Haute Savoie, however, on the southern French side, is considerably cheaper, but no less beautiful. Its lakeside and alpine villages offer a variety of inexpensive accommodation in both winter and summer.

Discover the shores of Lake Geneva

Here in the Haute Savoie, you can still enjoy the stunning scenery, the fabulous food, and the art de vivre of lakeside living, but at a fraction of the prices in Switzerland.

Stretching from the vibrant city of Geneva all the way to Mont Blanc, you can explore the medieval cobbled streets of Yvoire.

Why not take the waters at the chic spa town of Évian-les-Bains?

Play on the family-friendly ski slopes of Thollon les Mémises or tackle the more challenging runs in the Portes du Soleil from Châtel or Abondance.

Take a trip on the lake to wonder at the tumbling rock face in Meillerie.

Splash out and visit Switzerland, sampling the wines of Lavaux. Walk in the footsteps of Byron at Chateau Chillon.

Into the wild blue yonder

The post Welcome to Lake Geneva appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

I’d love to tell you how I plunged into the lake in a squeaky rubber suit and snorkelled my way to the bottom on a voyage of discovery.

But despite my love of sailing, I have a strong aversion to deep, dark, ice-cold water.

And besides….you never quite know what might be down there.

Luckily, others are less hesitant. So if, like me, you’re curious about what lies beneath the surface of Lake Geneva,  let’s find out.

How big are we talking?

But before we go any further, it helps to understand just how vast this lake really is.

Stretching over 73 km in length and 14 km across at its widest point, Lake Geneva holds an almost unimaginable volume of water – around 89 trillion litres.

And then there’s the depth.

At its deepest point, the lake plunges to around 310 metres.  To put that into perspective, imagine stacking around 70 double-decker London buses on top of each other.

A sinking boat would take roughly two and a half minutes to reach the bottom….dropping at around 7km/hr.

That’s deep.

Fed by the Rhône in the east, it’s said that a single drop of water can take up to 11 years to travel from one end of the lake to the other at Geneva.

Please don’t ask me who took the time to measure that.

This is no ordinary lake – and we’ve only just scratched the surface. From the balcony in Thollon, the lake looks calm enough…

The perils of the deep

The lake itself was formed over 150,000 years ago, as the Rhone Glacier retreated – and over the centuries, it’s seen more than its share of tragedy.

Sudden winds, poor visibility, and heavily laden vessels have all played their part. Even on calm days, the lake can be deceptive.

Over time, accidents, misjudgements, and bad weather have left their mark – quietly accumulating on the lakebed below.

And some of those stories still lie deep beneath the surface, waiting to be discovered.

The water, like a witch’s oils,

Burnt green, and blue and white

Samuel Taylor Coleridge – The Rime of the Ancient Mariner

With the development of underwater exploration, it’s now possible to catch a glimpse of some of the more recent objects resting on the lakebed.

So, what’s at the bottom?

Ammunition

For a start, there’s something less romantic than sunken yachts on the lakebed.

Around 1,500 tonnes of live ammunition were dumped here by the Swiss between the 1940s and 1960s. Much of it lies in a relatively small area – roughly 10 square kilometres – at depths of around 50 metres, towards the shallower Geneva end of the lake.

In recent years, divers have identified shells and bombs of various kinds resting quietly on the lakebed.

And that’s only part of the story.

The SS Rhône

One of the saddest wrecks has to be the steamship, the SS Rhône.

On 28 November 1883, the Rhône was travelling from Evian to Lausanne. On the opposite side of the lake, a smaller vessel – the Cygne – had set off from Vevey towards Thonon via Evian.

The weather was so wild that the Captain of the Cygne almost didn’t sail. Some passengers chose not to board.

In the end, he set off anyway, heading directly to Thonon. But halfway across the lake, the weather eased, and he altered course towards Evian as originally planned.

According to records,  in the heavy winds the Cygne veered off course – and struck the larger Rhône which was following its usual route across the lake.

The result was devastating.

Fourteen lives were lost.

Today, the wreck of the SS Rhône lies at a depth of around 300 metres between Evian and Lausanne – hidden far below the surface of an otherwise peaceful lake.

The SS Hirondelle

The Rhône is not the only story the lake holds.

Heavily laden with 350 passengers, many returning from market day in Vevey to Clarens or Montreux, the Hirondelle sank in a shallower part of the lake near Peilz.

Sailing close to the shoreline, the Hirondelle encountered a small boat approaching from the opposite direction.

Hesitating, the helmsman attempted to steer the steamer between the bank and the smaller vessel – but instead struck the rocks lining the shore.

Passengers scrambled ashore or onto the other boat and, remarkably, no lives were lost.

In the rush to abandon the stricken vessel, little was left behind.   Furniture, carpets, tables, and mirrors were stripped from the boat – along with a barrel of wine, a large ham, and even the captain’s binoculars.

A lucky day for some.

Of the four steamships that lie at the bottom of the lake, the SS Hirondelle is the most accessible to experienced divers.

Another vessel lies much deeper. The hull of the redundant SS Aigle II/Simplon was  deliberately scuttled  in 1935 and now rests in the deepest, darkest part of the lake.

Steam yachts

The SY Nemo, (with ‘SY’ standing for Steam Yacht) sank in 1875, having arrived on Lake Geneva from England only a year before.

Several wealthy individuals living along the shoreline of Lake Geneva – or Lac Léman – owned private steam yachts. A dashing combination of sail and steam, they were fitted out with velvet seats, polished brass, mirrors, and burnished wood: the height of luxury at the time.

Here’s a challenge for you.

At one point, the Swiss underwater exploration site www.sub-rec.ch. was offering a reward of 500 euros for help tracing the UK shipbuilder of the SY Nemo.

Whether or not it’s still unclaimed, it remains a rather tempting mystery.

Railway carriages

And then, improbably – railway carriages, lost overboard during a storm in 1859. Their rusting bones can still be found on the lakebed towards Le Bouveret.

Airplanes

You might expect to find wartime aircraft here – but surprisingly, there’s little evidence of planes from the Second World War.

What has been found, however, are remains of a De Havilland Vampire from 1951 along with several civilian  aircraft.

There’s even a photo of a 1920s-30s bi-plane – wrecked, but not sunk – at Ouchy.

Other smaller boats

In addition to the larger steamers, there are countless smaller boats too – casualties of storms, accidents, and forgotten summers. You can find underwater photographs of several small  boats on the www.sub-rec.ch site.

You can also find more details on the official site of the Register of the underwater wrecks of Switzerland

Our own wreck

There’s a dinghy, similar to a Wayfarer, permanently submerged under our small boat in the local marina. Even the prospect of claiming salvage rights hasn’t tempted me down there yet.

On a clear day, however, you can scare the living daylights out of your children with stories of the Black Pearl,  from Pirates of the Caribbean, rising from the deep.

The post Getting to the bottom of it – a deep dive into Lake Geneva appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

It’s no surprise people have always wondered what lies beneath the surface.

In  1964, for a brief moment, you could find out for yourself.

This is the story of the Auguste Piccard – the world’s first tourist submarine – and the extraordinary people behind it.

Above image by Paebi, feature image by Kecko, both on Wikimedia Commons

The world’s first tourist submarine

Built for the Swiss National Exhibition, Expo 64 in Lausanne, the Auguste Piccard was a ‘mesoscaphe’ – a mid-depth submarine designed not for war or research, but for ordinary people. It offered something completely new.

From the lakeside at Le Bouveret, visitors could board and descend into the dark waters of Lake Geneva.

Over the course of the exhibition, more than 33,000 passengers made the journey.

Forty passengers at a time descended into the murky depths, accompanied by two glamorous hostesses – Madeleine and Monique.

This was no austere scientific expedition.

Passengers were seated in comfort, attended by hostesses, and treated to a glimpse of a hidden world below the lake’s surface.

It was, quite simply, the hottest ticket in town.

Even Walt Disney took an interest.

There were stranger passengers too – including two chimpanzees from the Knie Circus – and a fashion show was filmed on board for Swiss TV.

For a moment it felt as if the future had arrived.

A short-lived dream

Despite its success, the submarine’s time on Lake Geneva was brief.

It operated for just a few months in 1964, with a short return the following summer. In total, it completed over 1,000 dives – and then, just as suddenly, it was gone.

The Auguste Piccard was sold and eventually ended up in Texas, where it sat for years, rusting and forgotten.

From lake to legend

But that wasn’t the end of the story.

In 1981, the submarine was brought back into service – this time in a far more ambitious role. It was rented by an American salvage company searching for the legendary Spanish galleon San José, often called the ‘mother of all shipwrecks’.

Sunk in 1708 and believed to hold billions in treasure, the wreck became the centre of a complex international dispute – with Spain, Colombia,  Peru and others all laying claim.

The Auguste Piccard became part of that story.

From quiet alpine lake to Caribbean treasure hunt – not a bad second act.

Home at Last

Eventually, a group of volunteers brought the submarine back to Switzerland.

After years of restoration, it found a permanent home at the Transport Museum in Lucerne, where it can still be seen today.

Dondui Wikimedia Commons

The Extraordinary Piccards

Behind it all was an extraordinary family.

Auguste Piccard, physicist and explorer, pushed the boundaries of human exploration – from the upper atmosphere to the depths of the ocean.

His achievements were remarkable:

• first man to reach the stratosphere
• pioneer of deep-sea exploration
• first to see the curvature of the earth
• inspiration for the bathyscaphe

His son Jacques would go even further, reaching the bottom of the Mariana Trench.

And his grandson Bertrand circumnavigated the globe in a solar-powered aircraft.

Exploration, it seems, runs in the family.

Auguste Piccard in Deutsches Bundesarchiv for Wikimedia Commons

It’s in their DNA to go beyond the obvious and achieve the impossible

So…the Star Trek connection?

If the name Piccard sounds familiar, it should.

The exploits of Auguste and his twin brother Jean so impressed Star Trek creator Gene Roddenberry that he named his most famous captain after them.

Jean-Luc Picard.

From Lake Geneva to the final frontier.

Hergé is also said to have immortalised Auguste in Tintin, in the absent-minded brilliance of Professor Calculus.

Helgi Halldórsson Wikimedia Commons

A final thought

For a brief moment in 1964, visitors to Lake Geneva could step into a submarine and explore a hidden world beneath the surface.

It didn’t last long.

But like all great ideas, it left a trace – in science, in exploration and even in fiction.

Exploration is a state of mind. If we want to innovate and achieve impossible goals, we have to understand that the only obstacle to success is our mindset. It is the accumulation of beliefs and habits that keep us prisoners of old ways of thinking.

Bertrand Piccard

The post Lake Geneva and The Birth of Submarine Tourism appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

OK, so I have a small confession, might as well get it over with now…
I’m a beach lover and always have been.

Give me a warm sandy beach, big straw hat, and a good book, throw in a Pina Colada and that’s it, heaven on earth.

But what about the hiking, the skiing, and the sweaty mountain activities. Fabulous… but there’s a time and place for everything…

With the weather warming up nicely, the time is definitely now, and the place… well, any one of the 120 beaches that you’ll find around the shores of Lake Geneva.

Who has time to discover all those?

Look no further. Here’s my guide to some of the best beaches on Lake Geneva in our little corner of paradise, the Haute Savoie.

Memories are made in flip-flops

I’m only including the beaches that have parking close by and toilet and refreshment facilities in this list.

There are many other places where you can teeter down to the lakeside from the side of the road and be entirely on your own. Those are the ones for you to discover for yourself when you get here.

Happiness is a day at the beach

The soft sands of Excenevex

Let’s start with the most popular lakeside beach at Excenevex.  Situated a few kilometres south of the medieval town of Yvoire, Excenevex (pronounced Ex-en-vay) is the only natural sandy beach on the shores of Lake Geneva.

The beach curves around a small bay and, with its shallow waters extending way into the lake, it’s ideal for paddleboarding, kayaking, and swimming.

Sandy toes, sun-kissed nose

Adding to the beach vibe is a long boardwalk which makes it easy to cart all the equipment (think children) out to your perfect spot.

There are numerous cafes and restaurants, catering to all budgets.

My favourite is Vedetts, the Leman Beach Club, which serves delicious salads at lunchtime under crisp white umbrellas. In the evening Vedetts turns into a party venue. You can check out their offerings on their Facebook page.

All restaurants here fill up fast on sunny days so perhaps best to take a picnic and avoid the queues.

There are also children’s playgrounds and a rainbow selection of pedalos to rent.

Port de Séchex – off the beaten track

I love it when I discover somewhere I’ve never been before. Séchex is a hidden gem.  Tiny in comparison to its nearby neighbour, Excenevex. The little hamlet of Séchex has a small pebble beach curving around a tiny bay that’s ideal for swimming in its shallow waters.   Although there’s no natural sand there’s a grassy sunbathing area in addition to the beach.

There’s no children’s playground here and no lifeguards but there are public toilets. There are also 3 or 4 fabulous-looking restaurants on the water’s edge and plenty of car parking.

Beach. Sleep. Repeat

The tranquil Anthy sur Leman

The beach at Anthy is also relatively small but is backed by a large grassy area with picnic tables and a small café for refreshments.  A large popular restaurant, Le Goeland, is situated towards the end of the beach, with roadside parking.  There’s also a little children’s playground.

The white beach at Corzent

From Anthy you can walk along the lakeside to the beautiful beach of Corzent, its white pebbles shine in the sunlight giving it a real Mediterranean feel.  There’s a small café at one end of this little beach and a well-regarded restaurant ‘Les Pieds Dans L’Eau’ at the other.  There’s limited parking along the roadside but there are larger car parks on the edge of Corzent in the direction of Thonon. Toilets are also available.

The beach at Corzent is also home to Leman Windsurfing, a charitable association renting windsurfers, paddleboards and foils on an annual basis to members. Storage of equipment also available to members. See their Facebook page for more details or contact Leman.windsurf@gmail.com

The Plage de St-Disdille

Situated at the Parc de la Chataigneraie near Thonon les Bains is a beautiful little beach with a cordoned-off swimming area that makes it perfect for small children with inflatable unicorns.

The beach itself is pebbly but bordered by boulders that make ideal seats for watchful parents.  A large grassy area behind the beach has a children’s playground and picnic tables making this an ideal spot for barbecuing.

The real gem here is the beach bar and restaurant, L’Oxxy, which adds a Caribbean vibe to the lakeside. You can also rent paddleboards and pedalos here.

If you arrive by boat, someone will come by pedalo from the restaurant to collect you and bring you to shore. How cool is that!

Good Times and Tan Lines

Time to reflect at Amphion

The ever-popular beach at Amphion, called the ‘Plage du Miroir’, has recently had an upgrade. This pebbly beach is backed by a large green grassy area where sunbathers and picnickers are set up for the day.

Popular activities here are pétanque and volleyball and paddleboarding.

There’s also a new ‘Wellness’ area at one end of the beach, with Norwegian sauna cabins for those who like to sweat a little more.

Want to burn off some of your child’s energy before yet another dip in the lake? Well this year, to the delight of the under 5’s, a herd of mechanical ponies has appeared under the trees. They can be rented out to any budding jockey who can squeeze into the seat.

The new restaurant and bar have a large terrace complete with a sandpit for the children. At weekends a DJ plays summer hits in the afternoons that have the salsa dancers on their feet.

Straw brollies and palm trees add to the holiday vibe.

There is now also access to the beach here for people with reduced mobility.

Petite Rive de Maxilly

A long stretch of easily accessible pebbly beach runs alongside the lake to the east of Evian. Bordered by a promenade and large grassy spaces. The Petite Rive is popular with picnickers and sunbathers alike.

Several restaurants have outdoor terraces along the promenade. My favourite is the friendly and unpretentious Rive-Sud (Natalie’s) which serves great salads and refreshments under lime green brollies. Just a stone’s throw from the beach.

The Rive Sud often has live music in the evenings, check out their facebook page for details.

If you need me, I’ll be at the beach

…and so there we have it. Just a brief selection of a few of our local, and favourite beaches. I hope you have the chance to check them out for yourself this summer…and don’t forget, I’m the one in the big hat, with the book and the pina colada

The post Here Comes the Sun – a guide to some of the best beaches on Lake Geneva appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

 The south-facing slopes of Lake Geneva, between Lausanne and Montreux, are dotted with small medieval villages.  At this time of year, with the wine harvest in full swing, the narrow village streets are buzzing with activity.  You can easily spot the wine merchants and winegrower houses,  by the intricate wrought iron signs hanging outside.

Wine is sunlight, held together by water

A Stairway to Heaven

Stretching for 30 km between Lausanne and Montreux, the undulating south-facing slopes on the north shore of Lake Geneva are home to some of the steepest vineyards in the world.

It may be hard to believe, but there are said to be over 10,000 terraces in Lavaux, on 40 levels, all held in place by 400 km of white stone walls.  Little wonder then that Lavaux has been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1973.

The toast of the Roman Empire

The story has it that the vineyards were first established here by the Romans. Wine was considered essential to daily life in Rome and was drunk by both men and women, from slaves to the aristocracy.

With over 180 million litres being produced in ancient Italy each year there’s no doubt that the Romans were experts in viticulture.   As the Romans expanded across Europe, they took their vines with them, establishing vineyards around their settlements and trading routes.

Home is where the wine is

Where the Romans left off, however, with the fall of the Empire, the religious orders of the day took over. In Lavaux, Cistercian and Benedictine monks began to cultivate the slopes extensively. Many of the terraces still found today on these sun-baked slopes date back to the 11th century.

What makes Lavaux so special?

The mild climate of the Swiss Riviera aided by the reflected sun from the surface of Lake Geneva/Lac Léman combined with the heat of the medieval stone walls provide ideal conditions to produce both white and red wines. In fact, this relatively small area accounts for nearly a quarter of all Swiss wine.

Wine is bottled poetry

Everyday traffic is banned from the small winding roads that run through the Lavaux vineyards so it’s the perfect place to stroll from village to village, 14 in all. You can admire the spectacular views of the lake and the mountains that dominate the south and eastern shores, or take a picnic and enjoy the vibrant sunsets, with a glass of wine of course…

From Grape to Wine

Cultivation of the vines that cling to these steep slopes is challenging. Harvesting grapes on such vertiginous terrain requires plenty of imagination. Some vineyards bring the grapes from the slopes using miniature cog railways which snake their way gently down the hillsides. Others use boxes suspended on cables like miniature rudimentary ski-lifts.

The boxes of white Chasselas or dark ruby coloured Pinot Noir and Gamay grapes are taken from the vineyards on small trucks to the nearby wineries. They’re poured by chute into the shadowy depths of deep cellars or emptied into converted garages to be pressed ready for fermentation, and later bottled and stored.

Life is too short to drink bad wine

What to drink?

Lavaux is home to 460 producers of fine wines.  Most Swiss wine is consumed in Switzerland itself. You might not be familiar with even some of the more famous names.

The most famous of the vineyards in Lavaux is the vast domain of Dézaley in the commune of Puidoux.  Spread over 54 hectares (133 acres) Dézaley also has the steepest slopes, some with gradients of 90%.

The star of Dézaley is the Dézaley Grand Cru AOC, a fresh, fruity white wine produced from the Chasselas grape.  Close your eyes and imagine the smell of almonds and fresh toast, with a hint of tea and honey and you’ve got it!

The other Grand Cru of Lavaux is Calamin which comes from the slopes above the pretty lakeside village of Cully. Like Dézaley, Calamin wines are made with the Chasselas grape which, according to the experts on wine-searcher.com, makes the perfect accompaniment to cheese fondue, a dream made in heaven.  Who are we to argue?

Wine Tastings

At the Lavaux Vinorama near the lakeside village of Rivaz there are over 300 local wines to sample, ranging from light white wines to robust, elegant reds all from the surrounding Lavaux vineyards.  Here you can combine a comprehensive wine tasting along with a guided tour of the vineyards. You can also visit the cellars of some of the local wine producers.

Many wine producers open their cellars to visitors and offer tastings of not only the wine they produce but other local specialties too.  Some also offer guided walks through the vineyards where you can learn about how the grapes are grown and harvested.

There’s still time in October to catch one of the many fascinating guided tours, see here for details

Buying Swiss Wine

Never seen Swiss wine for sale in your local supermarket? That’s because only 1% of the wine produced in Switzerland is exported.

Much of the wine, particularly from the larger vineyards, is sold by auction at the beginning of December but there are wine tastings everywhere.  In all the villages, the wooden doors of small wine merchants lie open welcoming the merely curious as well as potential customers who fill up their cars by the box load.

Getting there

The Lavaux vineyards are easy to get to by train, car or ferry.

You can get to the Lavaux vineyards by train from Lausanne or Montreux costing around CHF 4 – 7. The trains stop in several of the quaint Lavaux villages such as Pully, Lutry, Villette, Cully, Epesses, Rivaz, and St Saphorin.

You can also get to Lavaux on the CGN ferries. On the lake’s north shore, the ferries stop at Lausanne, Lutry, Cully, Rivaz, and Vevey. If you are using the ferries in the summer months and you prefer not to walk, you can link up with the Lavaux Express and Lavaux Panoramic scenic “trains” which take visitors on guided tours around the Lavaux vineyards.

If you travel by car, remember that many of the roads among the vines are closed to all but viticultural traffic. There is some limited parking available on the outskirts of the villages. Pay attention to time limits as parking restrictions are well-policed!

What else

Even if wine is not your thing, Lavaux is well worth the visit. There are over 50 different hiking trails that meander across the vineyards from village to village.

My top tip is to start early in the day, wear a hat, and don’t forget your sunscreen.  The heat radiating from the stone walls and the sun reflected off the lake can be really intense. In the height of summer, it’s often too hot to walk far. We caught the local bus back to our starting point. It’s a great excuse to cool down with a sparkling glass of chilled white wine.

Happiness is a well-stocked wine cabinet, and a closet full of shoes

The post The Vineyards of Lavaux – A Stairway to Heaven appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

Spending Time in Geneva

Looking for a grand day out?  Or perhaps, a short weekend break?

Then look no further, Geneva combines beauty and sophistication with intrigue and fun.

You’d be forgiven for thinking that Geneva’s a slightly stuffy, boring metropolis geared to business travellers and nothing else.  After all, it has a reputation as a city of international bankers, luxury watches, and world-renowned organisations.

…. but boring?  That couldn’t be further from the truth.

Geneva’s a vibrant, quirky, quaint little city that’s easily discoverable on foot. The old town has kept much of its traditional architecture and its sense of history.

Curving around the western end of the crescent-shaped Lake Geneva, this low lying city is cradled in Spring by the snow-capped mountains of the Jura and the Salève and watered by the clear mountain river, the Arve, and by the Rhone.

My Favourite Things to do in Geneva

Here are just some of the things you can do to get a real feel for this legendary city.

Walk out along the jetty to the famous ‘jet d’eau’ and take selfies

Stand under one of the world’s most famous fountains and dodge the spray.  Built in 1886 the plume of water rises to a staggering 140 meters.

Check the direction of the wind before venturing too close, you could end up soaked to the skin.

Fun fact

As you walk along the jetty try to spot the small metal box inserted in the wall which contains the button (yes it really is a very small button) that switches the jet on and off

Top Tip

There are days when the fountain isn’t operating but don’t let that spoil your visit to this beautiful city.

Take a water taxi

Next to the fountain, on the Quai Gustave-Ador, you’ll find the little yellow water taxis that criss-cross the lake constantly.

From the Quai, you can cross to the opposite side of the lake, at Paquis, for only 2 CHF. This is one of the best bargains in Geneva.  The trip lasts a few minutes but saves you the long walk along the promenades. Particularly useful in the long hot summers here.

Fun Fact

From your seat on the boat, it’s easy to see just how low-lying most of this city is. In 563 AD a huge landslip at the opposite end of the lake triggered a tsunami that destroyed much of the waterfront of Geneva.

Top Tip

The water taxis stop at five different points along the lakeside.

To be close to the shops take the water taxi from Paquis to the Molard jetty. The water taxi from Molard will also take you to the furthest stop from the city, at Geneve Plage. The plage or beach is super popular with sunbathers in the summer.

From the Plage, you can take the De Chateaubriand taxi which will take you to the park at the Perle du Lac.

Enjoy a break on the water’s edge

Why not spend some time over a coffee or an afternoon cocktail here?  Well, you are on holiday after all!

On the northern side of the lake, opposite the fountain, you’ll find the long promenades that are home to the exclusive hotels of Geneva.

The Hotel President Wilson is rumoured to house the world’s most expensive hotel suite, a mere $80,000 per night.  Find out what you can expect for that eye-watering sum here.

In the summer the area close to the water taxi terminal, Molard, is lined with small colourful pop-up bars. Head out along the jetty with the white beacon, to the Baie de Paquis for lunch.

Fun Fact

In the summer months, concerts are held by the Bains de Paquis at 6 am. Yes, that’s right, 6 in the morning! Great if you’re an early riser.

Take your swimming costume with you as the Bain de Paquis is where the locals go to swim, sunbathe and eat at the cheap self-service outdoor restaurant.

Top Tip

The pop-up bars often don’t accept payment by card so make sure you have some cash on you or you could end up doing the washing up.

A taste of history

If you prefer your coffee in more sophisticated surroundings, head up the steps from the lakeside, sidestep the doorman, and slip into the elegant Beau Rivage hotel.

The Beau Rivage

This is where the Austrian Empress Elizabeth or Sisi regularly stayed in Geneva. Sisi was assassinated here by Luigi Luchini an Italian anarchist, as she boarded the Belle Epoque steamer ‘Genève’ for a cruise.

Weird fact

Her assassin stabbed her with a fine stiletto blade which pierced her heart. Strangely she didn’t die instantly but carried on walking onto the steamship. No one realised what had happened until she fainted.  They loosened her corset and she died instantly. It was only then that they discovered she’d been stabbed.

The Empress was renowned for her tiny 14-inch waist. The theory is that her corset was so tightly laced that pressure on her heart had kept it beating.

The hotel has a small display of some of her personal possessions in the palm-filled lobby.

Andreas Faessler via Wikimedia Commons

Visit the Old Town

The old town of Geneva is a warren of steeply rising cobbled streets.

It’s easy to spend an afternoon poking around the quirky little shops, or watching the world go by from sunny pavement cafes and restaurants.

Top Tip

If you pick the Menu du Jour or Plat du Jour (Menu or dish of the day) you can eat quite cheaply in Geneva. The cosmopolitan nature of the city is reflected in the variety of food on offer here.

A good place to eat is on the ground floor of the department store Globus. They have everything from Indian and Thai curries, Japanese sushi and fresh Buddha bowls, to champagne and caviar.

In the old town, you can find the Cathedrale de Saint Pierre that dominates the town and the Maison Tavel.

The Protestant Cathedral of Geneva

The Cathedral became a Protestant place of worship in 1536. Very much in the Calvinist tradition, its interior is strikingly austere. In the southwest wing is the small Chapel of the Maccabees, a riot of colour in contrast to the main building.

Look out for Calvin’s wooden chair in the north transept. If you’ve got a head for heights, you can pay CHF 4 and climb the 157 steps for a panoramic view of the city and the lake.

Beneath the Cathedral lies the real gem.

An archaeological site tracing the growth of the Cathedral and Geneva since the 3^rd century. The official Swiss archaeological website calls it ‘one of the most significant sites north of the Alps’.

The fruit of 30 years of excavation the site is a maze of beautifully lit pathways that draw you into the convoluted history of this iconic building.

Fun Fact

The monks who lived here in the Medieval period benefited from central heating in their small cells. Very cosy.

Top Tip

The entrance to the site is behind the iron railings on the right of the cathedral façade before you go up the main steps. The entrance costs 8 CHF.

Maison Tavel

The Maison Tavel is the oldest private house in Geneva.

It contains a large and amazing 3D digital map that shows how the lake and Geneva have changed over the centuries.

The house also contains beautifully reconstructed 18^th and 19th-century interiors with original wallpapers.

Interesting fact

There’s also a collection of iconic pieces of Geneva’s history.

Perhaps the most chilling of these is the well-worn guillotine blade. Introduced by the French in 1799 it was used a tragic 46 times. Geneva finally abolished the death penalty in 1871.

Top Tip

Don’t be put off by its slightly Disneyesque exterior.

Enough!

I think we need some air.

If you prefer to spend your day relaxing, head along the promenade of the Quai Wilson named after President Woodrow Wilson.

Mon Repos and the Perle du Lac

Following the quayside will take you to Secheron and the park called Mon Repos. The park was once home to many exclusive private residences and the once-famous ‘Hotel d’Angleterre. The park now houses the Museum of the History of Science.

Fun Fact

The hotel owes its fame to Lord Byron who stayed there briefly in 1816, scandalising the locals.  When he decamped to the Villa Diodati on the other side of the lake the entrepreneurial hotel owner rented telescopes to the curious.

The hotel is long gone, and only the stables still exist.

Interior of The History of Science Museum

The parks of Geneva continue to delight.

If you had any energy left you can continue strolling to the tranquil park of the Perle du Lac.

A little further on you’ll find the park Ariana and the Ariana Museum with its collection of over 27,000 ceramics.

Top Tip

The permanent collections in Geneva museums are free to visit. Temporary exhibitions are free on the first Sunday of every month.

…..but even I’m feeling exhausted now.

There’s so much more that I could tell you about Geneva, but I’m hoping that this is enough to give you a taste of what there is to do in here.

Whether you’re here for a day or for a longer stay… Geneva is never boring!

The post A Grand Day Out in Geneva appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

It’s famous for its Gothic cathedral, its stunning art galleries, and its Olympic Museum.  It’s also a mecca for chocolate lovers and for anyone who loves a good fondue.

Rising from the northern shore of Lake Geneva, this is a city of hills, stairs, and steep inclines. If you’re not particularly fit before you get here, you certainly will be when you leave.  You could of course use the metro system, the escalators or the lifts that pepper the town.

There’s simply no excuse not to visit Lausanne, it’s a gem of a city.

What to see when you get there

Let’s start at the top and walk our way down through the city, you see so much more on foot.

The Sauvabelin Tower

The Sauvabelin Tower is the perfect start to your visit to Lausanne. It has panoramic views of the city and the lake from the viewing platform.  Sitting on top of a hill, (no surprise there), it dominates the Sauvabelin forest to the north of the city.

It’s super popular with families with its children’s playground, small lake and collection of curly haired pigs and mountain goats.

The top attraction in the park is the 35 metre (115 foot) wooden tower with its epic views of the city, Lake Geneva, and the Alps.

You can easily reach the park by public transport. Take the metro to station Bessières and then catch bus 16 to Lac Sauvabelin

Descending from the tower, take the path towards the car park and main bus stops and follow the signs for the Fondation de l’Hermitage.

Fondation de l’Hermitage

The Fondation de l’Hermitage is an art museum housed in an elegant 19th century villa. The gardens overlook the city and cathedral.

With regular world class exhibitions this is a small but fascinating museum.  It’s also home to Switzerland’s finest exhibition of early Chinese ceramics.

The current exhibition (February 2023) is devoted to Belgian artist Leon Spilliaert. A self-taught artist, Spilliaert was a pioneer of the symbolist and expressionist style at the beginning of the 20th century.

There’s an excellent restaurant, L’Esquisse, set in the grounds of the villa. Don’t forget to pre-book the restaurant as it’s really popular.

From L’Hermitage let’s head on further down to the famous Lausanne Cathedral.

Lausanne Cathedral

Dating from the 12th century, Lausanne Cathedral is reputed to be one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in Europe.

I always find the interiors of Swiss churches a bit austere, but the stained-glass windows here are sensational. The light filtering through the jewel-like roundels of the large Rose Window, brings the cathedral alive.

On a bright day the sunlight illuminates even the darkest nooks and crannies.

If you’ve got the energy you can climb the cathedral bell tower. From the top you can admire impressive views of Lake Geneva, the Jura and the mountains of the Haute Savoie.

For those with sharp eyes you’ll see a large urn as you enter the cathedral. Stratford Canning, British Ambassador to Switzerland erected the monument. It’s one of the few in the cathedral and is dedicated to his young wife who died in childbirth.

On that cheery note, let’s leave the Cathedral and continue on down towards the centre of the town. We have two choices.

Palais de Rumine 

One choice is to cross the road and take the wooden staircase opposite. This will bring you down to the Escaliers du Marché, dating back to the early seventeen hundreds. These lead on down to the Justice Fountain in the Palud square, the heart of Lausanne.

Here you can find plenty of shops, cafes, and restaurants. The department stores of Manor and the Co-Op both have excellent self-service cafeterias on their top floors. You can eat lunch on the small outdoor terraces overlooking the city.

The second option is to exit the cathedral and turn half right. Walk through the Place Madelaine with its outdoor café and take the wide staircase to Place Riponne.

This large open square is dominated by the Palais de Rumine which houses an archaeological and a fine arts museum in addition to Lausanne library.

Phew! I think it’s time for a breather. How are the legs doing? I think I mentioned it was hilly.

Lausanne is a curious mix of old and new. While it exudes a sense of history, stability and sensible ‘Swissness’, it also has a mischievous, modern, forward-looking side to it.

To discover a different side to the city head down from the shopping area towards the iconic 1930’s Tour de Bel-Air. Cross the main viaduct and descend the stairs (yes more) to the Flon district.

The Flon

The Flon is named after the river that now runs beneath the city. Here you’ll find a vibrant café culture, interspersed with trendy shops and art galleries.

This is the place to go for an after-work drink or for a meal, to see a movie or spend an evening people watching from a café terrace.

Lausanne has a large student population and the Flon is popular with young people. This gives it an energy and vibrancy all its own. Quieter during the day, it’s an ideal spot for a quick lunch.

But we’re not stopping here. After the Flon follow the signs towards the main train station, the Gare de Lausanne. This takes us down to Plateforme 10. (If  exiting from the main station doors, it’s across the road on the far left.)

Plateforme 10

Yes Wait, There’s More…

Plateforme 10 is Lausanne’s newest contribution to the art scene.  This district is devoted to the arts and is still a work in progress. There are 3 major museums here, art shops and cafes.

Musée Cantonale de Beaux Arts

It’s home to the Musée Cantonale de Beaux Arts (MCBA) with over 10,000 works of art.

A small selection of 300 paintings is currently on display in the MCBA.  Meander through the galleries and follow the development and fashions in artistic styles right up until the present day.

The Photo Elysée

The Photo Elysée is one of the world’s leading photography museums. You can find over 100,000 photographs in its collection, ranging from fine art to documentary. Not surprisingly it houses the work of some of history’s most famous photographers.

It also runs a variety of workshops devoted to every aspect of photography. So, if you want to know how to take the perfect selfie, this is the place.

The award-winning building is worth a visit in itself. The clean white angular lines of its façade are repeated throughout creating a relaxing, light and airy space. There’s a small café, the Cafe Lumen, on the ground floor which you can use without paying the entrance fee.

Mudac

And it gets better. The Museum of Design and Contemporary Art (Mudac) is the third museum you can find at Plateforme 10.  Formally called the Museum of Decorative Arts.  Mudac is home to the largest glass collection in Europe it also has collections of ceramics, prints, jewellery and contemporary design.

There’s so much to see here that you could spend an entire day just exploring these collections alone.

If you’ve had enough art to last you a lifetime let’s exit Platforme 10 and head on down the hill.

Depending on how the knees are holding up, you can walk down to Ouchy or take the metro. The walk takes you through a car-free zone and takes around 15 minutes.

Lausanne Olympic Museum

Motivating, heartening, moving, and above all awe-inspiring! This is how I’d describe the beautiful, modern Olympic museum.

I’ve never been a massive fan of the Olympics, despite once working for a member of the IOC… but I am now!

This beautiful modern museum is situated on the promenade at Ouchy, just a five-minute walk from the metro. The manicured gardens are dotted with bronze statues of Olympians from Ancient Greece to the present day.

The Olympic flame burns bright in an area dedicated to the Olympic ideals, ‘Citius, Altius, Fortius’ meaning ’Faster, Higher, Stronger’.

Is it all just sweaty socks?

Inside, the museum is a riot of colour… reds, yellows, oranges… all adding to the excitement of the Olympic spectacle.

The ingeniously designed space takes you through the history of the games. Leading you from Ancient Greece, through the sitting room of the founder of the modern games, Pierre de Coubertin, to the present day.

Immersive videos give you a sense of the tension, excitement, despair and the joy of the athletes as they compete for that elusive gold medal.

The display of equipment and clothing of some of the top achievers shows how sport has developed over the years.

Among the highlights for me were, weirdly, Jesse Owen’s running shoes.  Similarly, the outfits worn by Torvill and Dean in their iconic ice dance, Boléro.

There’s a glittering array of medals, and a selection of worldwide Olympic memorabilia.

As if that’s not enough, you can throw in just about every Olympic Torch. I particularly like the quirky costumes from the opening ceremonies, which wouldn’t look out of place at an ABBA concert.

To build a better world’

The aim of the Olympic Movement is ‘to promote sport, culture, and education with a view to building a better world’.

Idealistic, yes certainly. Realistic? Well that’s a discussion that could go on forever. On the positive side the Olympics has promoted sport for all. How many people had heard of curling before the Winter Olympics?  It’s also raised the profile of disabled athletes through the Paralympic games.

Yes, it’s big business, but I defy you to come out and not feel uplifted and inspired.

Et voilà…that’s our walking trip of Lausanne over for today

And so, there we have it! A fascinating, if not exhausting, trip to Lausanne

Most of the tourist attractions are within walking distance of the centre.  It might make sense to take the metro or use the bus so you can save your energy to enjoy the sites.

The metro runs overground and is clean and cheap. If you’re staying in a hotel you may find it offers you a free metro ticket to use for the duration.

How to get there

Getting there’s easy, there are excellent transport links.  The extensive railway network provides frequent connections to Geneva and Geneva airport.

The A9/E62 Motorway passes less than 4 km from the city centre and links with other major cities in Switzerland and beyond.

CGN Ferries

If you’re travelling from Geneva or from the French side of the lake in Evian les Bains, you can arrive in Lausanne in style. Climb aboard one of the many CGN ferries.

There are regular daily sailings to the port of Ouchy which sits just below Lausanne.  The cost of the metro that links Ouchy to Lausanne town can be included in your ferry ticket.

Recommendations

(based on personal experience, I don’t have any financial gain or reward of any kind from my recommendations)

There’s a lot to see and do in Lausanne, I’ve only scratched the surface here. If you’re a wine lover then you should definitely visit the world-renowned vineyards of Lavaux.

If you fancy staying overnight or for a few days in Lausanne, hotels can be expensive. I’ve stayed at the following mid-range hotels and found them clean, comfortable and convenient:

The Hotel des Voyageurs Boutique is situated in the pedestrianised heart of Lausanne. It’s super convenient for the historical centre and for the main commercial streets.  It also does a great breakfast.

The Hotel du Port at Ouchy is a five minute walk from the metro station at Ouchy and only a couple of minutes from the ferry terminal. It’s also just a few minutes from here to the Olympic Museum.

A favourite café in Lausanne is the Cochinelle. Always full of people with laptops writing their next novels.

Lausanne is full of great restaurants, most offering a ‘menu du jour’ during the week. I regularly go to Tartares & Co in the Flon. A buzzing space where you pick fresh ingredients from an extensive menu depending on what you enjoy most and create your own meal ‘sur mesure’.

I hope this blog post has given you a few ideas of things to see, without using the car, on a trip to Lausanne. Whether it’s just a day trip or a longer city break you’ll find plenty to discover in this city of art, culture and….athletes.

Interactive Map

If you’ve discovered any hidden gems in Lausanne then why not share them over on the Facebook page ‘Tales from a Thollon Balcony’.  Give the page a ‘like’ while you’re there. Or leave a comment on this page. I’ll look forward to reading them too.

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Discover three of the most magical gardens in this corner of France. All within easy reach of Evian Les Bains and Lake Geneva.

Casting the spell

Magic! A word that’s been in our vocabularies since the dawn of time. Magic is intriguing and mystical, an indefinable thing that turns the ordinary into the extraordinary.

Who wouldn’t like a little extra magic in their lives?

The magic of a garden

In this modern world, there’s something truly magical about a garden. Yes, gardens are great for BBQs. Great for the kids to play in, and to hang out the washing on a good day. But they’re also so much more than that.

They can be places of peace and tranquillity, delicate beauty, and relaxation. A place to recharge your batteries.

Just what turns a garden from a functional outdoor space with the odd herbaceous border and a patio plant into a place of wonder, enchantment, and delight?

What makes a magical garden?

A patchwork of colour, a portion of mystery, a pinch of timelessness but above all a sprinkle of creative genius.

The best gardens create a sense of connection. A connection not only to nature but to history itself. Like a tapestry, a garden weaves a story around its position, its layout, and the plants that are nurtured there.

Here are three of my favourites in this little corner of France

The Secret Gardens of Vaulx

The Secret Garden is unique. It transports you to a world of fantasy, jewel-like colours, soft breezes, and fairy tale architecture.  Created over 40 years by one man, Alain Moumen, his wife Nicole, and their children. This is an extraordinary place.

Into a different world

This garden sits on the crest of a hill in the rolling countryside between Annecy and Aix Les Bains. There’s nothing at first sight to distinguish the farm buildings that are home to the garden from hundreds of others.

A homemade sign for the ticket office leads you along a short pathway and suddenly you step into another world, a world reminiscent of the Arabian Nights.

A sprinkle of genius

Nothing here is what it seems.  Small courtyard gardens are full of cascades of flowering plants. Each is edged with cloistered walks, palisades, cool sitting areas and shaded by soft billowing drapes.

The exotic wooden structures, all created by Alain and Nicole, are sculpted and carved with exquisite Moorish designs. The small rooms that lead off the courtyard gardens are full of honey-coloured country furniture, hand-painted with alpine flowers and fruit.

A garden for artists

This is not a garden for tourists, this is a garden that invites you to share the life of this family, if only briefly, and you can’t help but be enchanted by its intimacy and its sheer genius.

The family is still working on their magnum opus. If you’re lucky Alain will cook you his delicious beignets, accompanied by sweet refreshing mint tea.  Pull up a chair by the fountain, beneath the heavy scent of roses and orange blossom, and relax.

The Garden of the 5 Senses at Yvoire

The garden of the 5 senses sits in the heart of the little medieval town of Yvoire, a popular tourist destination on the edge of Lake Geneva. Once part of the grounds of the castle in Yvoire, this small walled garden hosts a series of intriguing spaces devoted to the senses.

A luxuriant maze leads you from one small well-tended area to the next. Here you can touch, smell or even taste some of these often unusual plants.

The garden is a sun-filled haven of peace and quiet. It’s the perfect place to sit and listen to the birdsong and the buzzing of the bees.

The healing properties of plants

The garden has a collection of medicinal plants reputed to heal a variety of complaints. Plants have been used for medicinal purposes since man first walked the earth.

A couple of medicinal plants you might have heard of are the foxglove or Digitalis. Well known for its effect on the heart.  Also, the active ingredient in aspirin, Salicin, which comes from the bark of the willow tree. Medieval monasteries and castles often had medicinal gardens and much has been written about the healing properties of plants.

But what about the ‘big magic’?

The upper colonnaded part of this garden has an intriguing collection of ‘Magic Plants’. Here you’ll find some of the plants that have featured large in rituals for centuries. With their often hallucinogenic or mind-altering properties, they’ve played a central role in many mystical practices.

some magical plants you can find in this garden

Alchemilla Mollis is an unassuming little plant that grows in gardens across northern Europe. Moisture collects on the leaves of Alchemilla Mollis where it rolls down to a central point to form a single droplet that shimmers like a diamond.

In the 15th and 16th centuries, alchemists believed that this radiant droplet held not only the elixir of life but could even transform base metal into gold.

This garden also has a Mandrake, Mandragora Officinarum, perhaps one of the strangest of all plants. Used in religious and magical practices for hundreds of years, it’s part of the deadly nightshade family. Its potent root is believed to resemble a man.

When pulled from the ground the root is reputed to emit a high-pitched scream that will kill or drive the hapless gardener mad. To remove a Mandrake from the ground you should attach a black dog to the plant by a long piece of rope. Then you startle the dog who will pull out the root as it runs away.

La Rambierta – a magical alpine garden

Our third garden is an Alpine Garden. It lies on the south-eastern ridge of the Rochers de Naye above Montreux. It’s a complete contrast to the previous gardens, but it’s equally as magical.

The garden sits in the cleft of the mountain, between two blocks of tooth-like rock, at 1980 metres above sea level. The garden itself is a feat of endurance and dedication on the part of the volunteers that tend it.

There’s magic in the air

A Spectacular View

Almost stealing the show, however, is the sensational view from the top. When the weather’s good you can see as far as the Bernese Oberland, Gruyere, the Alpes du Valais, and Mont Blanc.

This beautiful alpine garden winding its way down the mountainside was created in 1896 by Genevan botanist Henri Corrévon. It’s named after Eugène Rambert (1830-1886), professor of French literature, amateur naturalist, and member of the Swiss Alpine Club,

Alpine plants from around the world

The garden has over a thousand different varieties of alpine plants, most of which are native to Switzerland or are from the Alps in general. Some come from other European mountain ranges (Pyrenees, Carpathian, Caucasus). Some from other continents (Asia, North America), and some rare species from the southern hemisphere.

The “Himalayan” rockery hosts a collection of plants from, guess where… the Himalayas and can be found on a part of the north-facing slope.

The first flowers, the primrose yellow of the Primula Auricula, open as soon as the snow melts in May or June. July however, is the best time to visit as many of the flowers are in full bloom.

Among other plants, you can expect to find here are the vivid blue Gentiana and Saxifraga oppositifolia. covers the tumbling rocks in delicate pink flowers.

This garden is well worth the visit, even if only for the MOB cog railway train that runs from Montreux railway station, stopping at Glion, Caux, and Hautes Caux.  The train offers spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. You can walk the 400 meters from the top station to the small wooden hut that marks the entrance of the garden.

There is even a tavern, the Buvette de Jaman, halfway up the mountain where the train stops, in case you need a little fortification before heading on up to the top.

All gardens are magical places. If you feel like being a little less ordinary today, why not be inspired by these magnificent natural works of art.

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