Allow a full day at a relaxed pace including coffee, lunch and photo stops.

Trains run frequently back to Montreux (around every 30 minutes), so you can shorten the walk at several points along the route.

Difficulty: Easy-moderate (distance rather than hills)
Accessibility: Flat, suitable for all fitness levels, buggy friendly
Distance: 18 km
Time: 5-6 hours depending on stops
Start: Montreux quays
Finish: Lutry station
Best for: Scenic walking, cafés, photography, architecture and relaxed exploring
Refreshment stops: Montreux · Clarens · Vevey · Lutry
Top tips: Comfortable walking shoes, sun hat and sunscreen — even outside midsummer it can feel surprisingly warm beside the lake. Take a bottle of water with you for the Lavaux section.

Falling for the Swiss Riviera

I’m in love with the Riviera. Not the slightly brash, ostentatious one where film stars jostle and pout on the red carpet.

No, I’m in love with its altogether more sophisticated cousin… the Swiss Riviera.

So, where’s the magic?

It’s right here.

It’s in the mountains that rise straight from the lake, crowns skimming the clouds. It’s in the crystal clear mountain water, the eerie siren calls of the paddle-steamers and the faded glory of the honey coloured villas.

With the glittering waters of Lac Léman and the French Alps beyond, backed by the Rochers- de-Naye, this is scenery on an epic scale.

But there’s more than just a great view.

The Swiss Riviera Walk

There’s something special in the air here.

Something that has drawn people to this particular spot for centuries — writers like Rousseau, Byron, Scott Fitzgerald and Hemingway; artists like Turner and Courbet; and, of course musicians like Freddy Mercury and David Bowie.

Let’s set aside the usual Montreux highlights for a day and discover what makes this place so special.

So come with me on this beautiful Swiss Riviera walk.

Where to from here?

Let’s walk west from Montreux towards Lutry, where the Riviera gradually gives way to vineyards tumbling down to the water’s edge.

We’ll leave the busiest spots behind and explore palm-lined promenades, elegant lakeside towns and some of the quieter corners of the Swiss Riviera.

Along the way I can promise you coffee and cake, plenty of pauses to drink in the views and  — perhaps best of all — an apéro at the end of the day.

Why don’t we start early and beat the crowds?

Quais de Montreux

We’ll begin at the famous Freddie Mercury statue in front of Montreux market hall.

Freddie lived and worked in Montreux for many years, relishing the peace he found here. Fans still leave flowers and little tributes at the foot of his statue.

But today we’re walking on.

Palm trees probably aren’t the first thing you’d associate with Switzerland, but they line the promenade here.  Thanks to its own micro-climate, the Swiss Riviera has a sunny Mediterranean feel that seems completely at odds with the Alps towering behind it.

Heading west we pass rose gardens and the grand Belle Époque hotels of Montreux. Their yellow awnings give a light, bright twist to their imperial grandeur.

I love this section of the Swiss Riviera walk , it feels like a mini open-air sculpture garden.

See how many bronze sculptures of composers and animals you can spot hidden among the flower beds.

And the cherry on top here? The little yachts and boats that moor just off-shore.

If you only take one photo on this walk, take it here.

Coffee stop: Clarens 

Strolling on we come to Clarens. It feels much quieter here.  The soft colours of the Belle Epoque villas and their slightly overgrown gardens give it a more laid back feel.

Clarens has long attracted  artists and writers. Painters like Turner and Courbet came here, while writers including Rousseau and Byron found inspiration on these shores.

Byron visited Clarens in 1816 and is said to have travelled with a well-thumbed copy of Rousseau’s La Nouvelle Heloise, curious to see the landscape that had inspired the novel.

In a way, he was among Europe’s very first tourists.

I love the fact that, even 200 years later, you can still clearly recognise the places they wrote about.

It’s like sharing a secret.

Anyway, enough culture for now, let’s talk tea! There’s a little tea-room, the Tea-room Leduc, on Rue du Grammont just off the promenade that is well worth the detour.

The smell of fresh coffee greets you as soon as you open the door. Pull up a chair and let’s treat ourselves to a pastry before heading on.

Open: Tuesday to Friday 7:00 – 14:00 — Saturday 7:00 – 12:00
Closed Monday

Villa ‘Le Lac’, Corseaux 

Mention Le Corbusier to almost any architect and their eyes light up. One of the pioneers of modern architecture, his influence can be seen all over the world.

His tiny house, Villa ‘Le Lac’, designed for his parents in 1923, sits directly beside the promenade. From the outside it’s surprisingly modest —  a long low white building with ribbon like windows and almost no decoration at all.

Inside though, it’s painted with vibrant colours that soften the clean lines, but furnished in a way that I’d describe as… spartan.  But then again, I do like a bit of sparkle.

This little house turned out to be more influential than it first appears and became an early expression of many of Le Corbusier’s later ideas.

Is it worth a visit?  Mmm… perhaps, if architecture or interior design is your thing — or if you want to impress the next architect you meet.

If you fancy a look inside, visits currently run on Saturdays and Sundays 14:00 – 17:00

La Tour-de-Peilz

From here onwards, the Swiss Riviera walk becomes quieter.

We pass the 13^th century Savoy castle sitting directly on the waterfront, its towers reflected in the lake.

The castle was once home to the William Beckford, author of the Gothic novel ‘Vathek’.

Back in the day Beckford was described as ‘the richest man in Britain’. He was also wildly eccentric and no stranger to scandal.

To escape the press and his critics, he relocated to Switzerland where he continued to host lavish balls and parties.

Today the castle is the Swiss Museum of Games, which somehow feels appropriate.

This is also where the Riviera begins to change. There are fewer visitors, more locals and maybe a glimpse of everyday Switzerland.

The scenery, though, is every bit as beautiful and the breeze from the lake just as refreshing.

Vevey and the giant fork 

If all this walking is making you feel hungry, you’re in exactly the right place. Rising out of the water like a giant exclamation mark is an 8-metre (26 feet) stainless-steel fork.

It was installed as part of a temporary exhibition, but the locals loved it so much that it’s stayed.

The fork is one of the Riviera’s most photographed landmarks. On misty days, with snow-dusted mountains behind it, you can see why.

Vevey is also home to Nestlé and the Alimentarium, Nestlé’s food museum.

It would be fair to say that Switzerland has a thing about good food. And chocolate is no exception. I was surprised to discover that milk chocolate was invented by Daniel Peter and Nestlé here in Vevey.

Place du Marché

Beyond the fork, one of the most striking things about Vevey is Place du Marché —one of Switzerland’s largest arcaded squares, opening directly onto the lake.

On Tuesdays and Saturdays, the market fills with local cheese and charcuterie stalls.

On Saturday mornings you can buy wine by the glass from local producers and sip as you shop.

Every 20 – 25 years the Marché in Vevey hosts the extraordinary the Fête des Vignerons — a huge celebration with music, wine and hundreds of performers.

The best bit is buying a small glass (wine is often served in very small glasses in Switzerland) and filling it as many times as you like from the various stands, which I think rather defeats the point of the small glass.

Vevey has always drawn people in.

Charlie Chaplin lived for 25 years just outside Vevey at Corsier-sur-Vevey. His former home, Manoir de Ban, is now a Hollywood style ‘studio experience’ showcasing his life’s work and recreating the atmosphere of the silent movie days.

Before modern transport, women from Haute Savoie rowed across Lac Léman to buy and sell goods in Vevey before rowing home again the same day. Much more exhausting than our Swiss Riviera walk.

Lunch in Vevey

Please tell me it’s lunchtime! Time to rest our feet and soak up a little local life.

I’ve got two good lunch options in Vevey for you, both just a few minutes from the lake.

The Café – Restaurant du Port on Rue d’Italie specialises in lake fish — particularly perch and fera — and has a large sunny terrace. It’s unpretentious and reasonably priced.

Open: Daily June – August
Sept – May: Closed Mondays (15:00)

Or there’s Gueuleton Vevey on Rue du Léman — a popular spot serving fish from the lake,  sharing platters, Vaudois charcuterie and local Chasselas by the glass.  (My tip is to check the prices before booking)

Sounds delicious… although I suspect I’ll skip the sharing bit.

Into the Lavaux vineyards

Leaving Vevey behind, the character of the walk changes almost without you noticing. The cafés and busy promenades fade into the sweeping terraces of one of Switzerland’s most famous landscapes.

The Lavaux vineyards are among the steepest vineyards in the world. Luckily we don’t have to climb them today on our Swiss Riviera walk.

There are said to be over 10,000 terraces with a phenomenal 400 km of dry stone walls.

One of my favourite facts about Lavaux is that it’s known as the ‘land of the three suns’. The vineyards are warmed not only by the sun overhead but also by its reflection from Lake Geneva and by the heat stored in the dry stone terrace walls.

It’s a unique combination that helps produce exceptional wines here, particularly the light refreshing Chasselas that you’ll find everywhere.

If you have the time, wander up into one of the little wine villages. Behind the heavy wooden doors you’ll often see the wine presses and depending on the season, local winemakers hard at work.

I’ll be honest, by this stage my feet are beginning to remind me I’ve been walking for several hours. On a warm day this stretch can feel surprisingly long, but keep going, we’re almost there.

The first glimpse of Lutry’s little harbour is a welcome sight and the promise of a cold drink is all the motivation we need.

 Lutry

And here we are — at the end of our walk, with it’s little ports, waterside cafés and stunning views.

And, unofficially at least, the end of the Swiss Riviera.

The palms and Belle Epoque villas give way to the sweeping vineyards of Lavaux and to Lausanne further along.

Those are adventures for another day — but if you’d like a taste of what’s around the corner, then take a look at ‘Lausanne — a City of Athletes’ or if sampling the local wine is more your thing, then see ‘Lavaux — A Stairway to Heaven’.

In the meantime, let’s take a moment to look back along the full sweep of the Riviera.

We did it!

Eighteen kilometres of the Swiss Riviera walk, along one of Europe’s most beautiful lakefronts. And now all that remains is the reward.

Apéro: Les Copains d’Abord

Les Copains d’Abord is known as the best bar on the Lutry quai, it serves craft beer, local wine and tapas right beside the water.

There’s nothing quite like that feeling that you’ve earned your glass of wine or your Aperol after a day’s walking.

This is our chance to wind down, look through our photos and reflect on life on the Swiss Riviera.  And the best part?  The train back to Montreux is only 5 minutes away.

Photo Credit: Vevey Market Hall: Photo by Jmh2o, via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
Photo credit: Tour de Peilz: Patrick Nouhailler’s

The post Explore the Swiss Riviera: A Walk from Montreux to Lutry appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

places • events • seasonal moments

On my radar
I’ve got my eye on a small exhibition in Lausanne, at the Musée cantonal des Beaux-Arts or MCBA, Plateforme 10.

Called French Painting 1800 – 1945: Anatomy of a Collection, it features the works of Corot, Courbet, Degas, Cézanne, Matisse and Bonnard, all from the museum’s own collection.

This really appeals to my love of French art so I’ll be sure to catch it when I’m there.

• Dates: until August 16, 2026
• Location: MCBA, Place de la Gare 16 (Plateforme 10 Arts District)
• Hours: Tuesday to Sunday 10 :00 AM – 6 PM

On the menu
One of my favourite signs of summer around the lake — fera back in the shops and appearing on restaurant menus again.

If you’re ordering, it’s worth reading carefully: not every ‘fera du lac’ has actually come from Lac Léman. 

You’ll find little fishing boats like this moored in small ports around the lake.

Although there are fewer and fewer of them, the traditional way of fishing still survives here, with nets marked by floating buoys and catches changing with the seasons.

If you’d like to try lake fish yourself, I’d recommend browsing at Du Léman à l’Océan in Evian. Alongside seafood and prepared dishes, they usually have local lake fish in season. They also prepare platters of seafood to take down to the beach.

Around the lake
Evian is preparing for the G7 summit (15-17 June) and there’s already a different atmosphere around the region — extra security, border measures and more activity than usual on both sides of the lake.

If you’re visiting this month, it’s worth checking local arrangements before setting off.

On the water
The Bol d’Or du Léman has just taken place — hundreds of yachts racing the length of the lake.

Fanny Schertzer / Wikimedia Commons

Apparently these beauties are Decision 35s, high performance 35 foot catamarans developed specially for inland waters like Lake Geneva. 

This year saw their offspring, the TF35 ‘flying catamaran’ take to the water. Their hydrofoils allow them to rise clear above the surface of the water and skim across the lake. 

How exhilerating!

If you missed it this year, put it on your list for next June.

Fresh from the Balcony

I’ve given one of my most-read posts a summer refresh — Here Comes the Sun, my guide to beaches around Lake Geneva.

The post June 2026 appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

Sort on time? Here’s the quick version. Every July Evian becomes home to one of the biggest events in women’s golf. The atmosphere is surprisingly relaxed, the setting above Lake Geneva is spectacular and with a bit of planning it’s far more accessible than you might think. 

‘Silence!’ bellows a formidable woman from the edge of the course. A ripple of anticipation runs through the crowd, peering over each other’s shoulders to get a better look.

A young woman steps on to the tee carrying a golf club almost as tall as herself. She settles herself with absolute precision in front of the ball. There’s an audible inhale from the spectators.

She raises the club. It glints like a rapier in the sunlight. You don’t see it strike the ball, but you certainly hear it… cracking like a pistol shot.

The ball soars into the sky seeming to touch the clouds, and lands… ten feet from the hole.

There’s a gasp of astonishment from the crowd, who then shuffle on in unison to the next vantage point.

A major Championship on Lake Geneva

But these young women aren’t just playing for adulation. They’re playing for a massive $9.1 million prize pot.

This is the Amundi Evian Championship, home to the famous Pink Sunday celebration.  It’s one of the five major championships on the LPGA Tour, and one of the most prestigious events in women’s golf.

Held each July in Evian-les-Bains, the tournament attracts the world’s best female golfers to one of the most beautiful championship settings in Europe.

And it’s right here… in Evian, set between Lake Geneva and the mountains.

This isn’t Scottish links golf

Golf has come a long way since it was invented, arguably, in Scotland.

The only thing that’s high velocity on a Scottish links course is the wind, and the occasional sheep. But there is something charming about courses where you can still find honesty boxes for your green fee.

Where you spend most of the day waist high in gorse bushes looking for your ball. And where the horizontal rain fades to a memory in the warmth of an old clubhouse… where you replay and embellish every shot over a soup and sandwich.

It’s a world away from the glamour and sophistication of the women’s LPGA competition on the manicured fairways of Evian Resort Golf Club.

This 4-day event takes place every July and it’s more than just about the golf. It’s a four-day festival

Inside the Championship village 

Evian is all about the style. From the moment you arrive, you realise this isn’t just an elite golf competition; it’s a massive summer garden party.

As a prize winning ‘ville fleurie’, Evian’s famous for its floral displays.  At the golf course the Evian groundsmen fill the flower beds with an abundance of blooms, enveloping the club house in a riot of colour. Mostly pink of course. Why pink? You’ll find out later.

Sponsors and shopping 

Before you even reach the fairways, you navigate a galaxy of luxury sponsor’s tents.

You can buy an official Amundi Evian sunhat (essential for most days) and expensive sunglasses.

And what about that heavy-duty golf umbrella designed to resist the wind when you finally return home to Scotland, or wherever.

You can slip past the Rolex pavilion or perhaps find yourself tempted in by a tanned sales assistant with teeth as dazzlingly white as the canvas of the marquees.

Getting around the course 

Small golf buggies whizz along the pathways that wind around the fairways.   Some are ferrying spectators towards the grandstand bordering the 18th hole.

Others are heading for the champagne tents, and some are simply just soaking up the spectacular views of the mountains and Lake Geneva.

Next to the clubhouse the towering leader boards display the competitor’s names, a wonderfully international mix of young athletes. All vying to be the absolute best in the world.

Nearby, the gleaming trophies stand proudly on their plinths, waiting for that iconic podium moment on the final day.

Pink Sunday

And what a final day it is. There’s really nothing else like it.

Imagine a massive bubble of chewing gum exploding over the course, covering the crowd, the players, the technical staff, and the press. Pink is everywhere.

Because this is Pink Sunday.

It has long been a tradition for everyone to wear pink on the final day of the competition.

Pink and white are the globally recognised colours of the Evian water company (and by extension, the Evian Resort which owns the golf club and hosts the tournament).

Not only is this an incredibly clever piece of corporate marketing, but it also injects a fun, festival feel into the entire day.

The pink theme even follows the eventual winner onto the podium. As she raises the trophy triumphantly overhead she’s showered in pink eco-friendly confetti.

And for some reason, a giant bottle of Evian water always manages to be part of the scene.

When Zinedine Zidane came to Evian

But he’s a footballer, isn’t he?  Yes, but there’s also a more community-focused side to Pink Sunday.

The tournament partners with the European Leucodystrophy Association (ELA), a charity dedicated to supporting families fighting leukodystrophy.

Each year, during the tournament, there’s a charity football match between ‘Evian staff and guests’ and a ‘Players and Caddies’ team.

The LPGA players and their caddies trade their golf shoes for football boots in this legendary charity football match.

They line up against a team of Evian resort staff and celebrity guests — which over the years has included French football royalty like Zinedine Zidane.

Zidane just happens to be a high-profile honorary member of ELA.

When golf gives back 

The corporate stakes are high: the tournament sponsors donate €500 to the charity for every goal scored, which one year resulted in around 36 goals.

Now, given that Evian’s parent company is a multi-billion-euro empire… and the tournament boasts a staggering $ 9.1 million prize pot… a few hundred euros per goal is hardly going to break the corporate bank.

But corporate public relations aside, the match itself injects some genuine, light-hearted fun into an otherwise high-stress week.

So, when you see that sea of pink flooding the greens on Sunday, you’re looking at an event that at the very least — knows how to throw an excellent party, with a nod to a worthy cause.

Can ordinary golfers play in Evian?

If, like me, you’ re not quite up to competition standard yet, ahem, or your purse won’t stretch to the eye-watering green fees of the Evian Golf Club, then don’t despair.

There’s always the wonderful Evian Golf Academy. One of my favourite corners of Evian.

Whether you just want to practise your chipping, work on your swing or play the short course, the Academy offers you the chance to do all of that, in beautiful surroundings — and I’ll be sharing a short guide very soon.

Planning your visit to the Amundi Evian Championship

•  Quick Practical Tips

If you’re planning to head down to the fairways to catch the action live, here’s everything you need to know to survive and enjoy tournament week.

• Tickets & Entry: Tickets must be bought in advance via the official Amundi Evian Championship website. You can buy single-day passes or full four-day tournament badges. Children under 18 usually get in free when accompanied by an adult, making it a great family day out.
• The Pink Sunday Dress Code: Consider yourself officially warned! If you’re attending the final round on Sunday, pack something pink. Whether it’s a bright linen shirt, a pastel cap, a pair of loud trousers, or pink accessories,  you’ll want to fit into the sea of pink.
• Getting to Evian les Bains: if you’re coming from across the lake, the easiest route is the N1 passenger ferry from Lausanne to Evian, which takes about 35 minutes. If traveling by train, Evian’s station has direct links from Geneva and Annemasse.
• Getting to the Course: Parking can be tricky if you drive directly to the golf club during tournament week. Instead use the free tournament shuttle buses that run constantly from the Evian train station and designated public park-and-ride (parking relais) lots around town.
• For more specific information and updates check out the Amundi Evian Championship Official Practical Info page

Whether you go for the world-class sporting drama, the friendly village atmosphere, or just to marvel at a sea of pink against the blue backdrop of Lac Léman, it’s an unforgettable summer day out in the Haute-Savoie.

The post A Spectator’s Guide to the Amundi Evian Golf Championship appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

Set against a backdrop of the French Alps, Évian gazes confidently across Lake Geneva towards Switzerland.

This is a town built on water.

Lake Geneva laps at its feet while the mountains behind provide its source of life…yes …more water.

For centuries people have visited Évian hoping the mineral waters might restore their health, energy and youth. ‘Live Young’ was the motto of the water company for many years.

In fact, Évian water underpins the whole town. It bubbles from fountains, fills the Lido, funds the luxury hotels and waters the flower beds.

But there’s far more to Évian-les-Bains than bottled water. Spend a day wandering its lakeside promenades, visiting the Belle Époque buildings, the cafés and markets and you quickly understand why it’s become one of the most elegant and atmospheric towns on Lake Geneva.

Does it rejuvenate you?

Well, maybe the jury’s out on that one, but I’m pretty sure that a day out or a short stay in Évian will put a spring in your step.

Ferries criss-cross Lake Geneva throughout the day, connecting Évian with towns and cities around the lake including Lausanne and Geneva.

Each day they glide into the jetty and unload eager tourists from Switzerland.

Évian may be expensive by French standards but compared to Switzerland it can feel almost reasonable — which probably also explains the steady stream of Swiss registered cars in the supermarket car parks.

And the joy of Évian is that most of its highlights can easily be explored on foot, in a single leisurely day.

Where Évian meets the lake

Let’s start with the promenades, stretching along the waterfront from the Lido, past the marina and on towards the pebble beaches and cafés of the Petite Rive

This is where your rejuvenation begins … breathing the fresh ozone-filled air of the lake as you stroll along the promenades.  Perfect for relaxing, unwinding and a little people-watching.

Try keeping pace with yachts with their billowing sails or sit and watch swans glide effortlessly past.

On a sunny day, sit beneath the palm trees at one of the little turquoise kiosks, and sip strong French coffee or a chilled glass of rosé.

The best way to see the town is on foot, particularly if, like me, you love discovering narrow backstreets and hidden corners.

But if you prefer a more leisurely approach, there’s always the little tourist train.

Exploring Évian on Le Petit Train

Catch the little tourist train on the quayside opposite the Casino. It offers a 45-minute guided tour of the town which includes the imposing buildings that give Évian its special character.

A Perfect Day in Évian-les-Bains

The Source Cachat and Évian’s famous waters

This is what all the fuss is about. This is the source of Évian’s liquid gold.

The Cachat spring has flowed continuously since 1905. It’s watched over by a graceful statue representing the purity, health and abundance associated with its healing water.

You can fill your bottles with Évian water here for free and there’s often a queue of locals doing just that.

Less well known, and… let’s whisper this… in my humble opinion, better … is the Source Cordelier, just a little further along the road.  Why not try both and see which you prefer.

A Pause at the Buvette Cachat

Now step inside the remarkable Buvette Cachat and admire the sparkling stained-glass windows and intricate wooden ceiling.  It’s an Art Nouveau masterpiece.

In the early 1900’s this was the place to socialise while drinking the mineral waters. There was a reading room, a music hall with orchestras playing and waiting rooms for ferry passengers.

After a seven-year restoration project, the building has finally reopened to the public.

Cafés, Shops and Belle Époque Streets

Hopefully a sip of water from the source has perked you up enough to head along the rue Nationale, the main shopping street in Évian.

Unlike most towns, Évian has retained its small independent shops and avoided the large multinational chains, (apart from a little Monoprix tucked by the tourist office)

The main shopping street is a mix of elegant clothing, bookshops, cafés and patisseries, tempting you in from the street.

Prices in some shops reflect the affluent Swiss clientele, but there are still bargains to be found.

My favourite café is Couleur Café, with its delicious homemade cakes. For lunch try the Pédalo, a Breton pancake restaurant serving sparkling Breton ciders alongside inventive sweet or savoury crêpes.

From the rue Nationale head downhill towards the funicular that will take you up above the town to admire the views.

Évian’s little metro

Opened in 1907, the funicular has often been called Évian’s little metro. Every 20 minutes it trundles its way from the lower station, just behind the Palais Lumière, up to the heights of Évian.

From the top station there are panoramic views of Lake Geneva towards Switzerland.

The wooden seats and stately pace transport you to another era.

It was originally built to carry spa visitors from the town up to the luxurious hotels and villas of the Mateirons district.  Hotels like the Royal and the Hermitage still overlook the lake today.

Nearby, the remarkable Grange au Lac concert hall attracts internationally renowned orchestras and performers.

The train is also completely free.

Art and elegance at the Palais Lumière

Opposite the lower funicular station, you’ll find the book shop entrance to the Palais Lumière.

This is one of the most striking buildings on the waterfront, its huge glass dome reflecting the light from the lake.

Once devoted to thermal treatments, it is now one of Évian’s main cultural centres.

Each year the Palais Lumière hosts large travelling exhibitions devoted to iconic artists, writers and public figures.  Recent exhibitions have been devoted to Picasso, Delvaux, and Man Ray.

This summer’s exhibition focuses on the legendary actress Sarah Bernhardt.

Although the exhibitions are paying, you can still wander through the bookshop and into the lobby. To admire the mosaics and the four seasons as you go.

French Flags and Belle Époque Grandeur

Just next door is the Mairie, instantly recognisable by the French flags fluttering from its façade.

Built in classical French Belle Époque style it’s flamboyant and fun.

Don’t miss the enormous classical sculptures flanking the entrance doors at the side of the building.

If you’ve been swept away by the romance of Lake Geneva and Évian, you can get married here. Inside the Mairie is a stunning glittering gold salon. It’s open to the public on certain days and worth a visit.

At least your wedding photos won’t be boring.

The Casino and Évian’s Belle Époque glamour

The Évian Casino has long been one of the town’s great Belle Époque landmarks.

At the time of writing, the casino’s undergoing restoration following a devastating fire earlier this year.

When fully reopened it’ll once again offer gaming tables, restaurants and bars. Before the fire, the newest restaurant, The Terrace du Baron, had begun building an excellent reputation for fine dining.

Hopefully, it won’t be long before it returns.

Don’t forget the sundowner

Before you leave, head down towards the marina and settle into one of the terraced cafés with a coffee or a glass of wine while watching mildly stressed people trying to moor their boats.

The sunsets from Évian are legendary, so perhaps…. you could just stay an extra day and enjoy even more of what Évian has to offer.

If you’re staying longer

• If a single day in Évian isn’t enough — and honestly, it probably won’t be — here are a few more places worth exploring.
• The Thermes d’Évian – luxurious spa treatments and thermal wellness experiences
• The Lido –floating platforms, mountain views and one of the best summer swimming spots on the lake
• The Petite Rive – relaxed waterfront cafés, pebble beaches and a slower pace of life
• Villa Châtelet – an elegant historic villa with beautiful grounds
• The Théâtre – check local listings for concerts, performances and cultural events
• The Golf Academy – one of the most scenic golfing settings anywhere around Lake Geneva
• The Royal Hotel & Hermitage – Évian’s grand Belle Époque palace hotels, overlooking the lake in extravagant style
• Chill out time – good for watching the sunsets

Sunset hour by the lake – absolutely non-negotiable

How to Get to Évian

Evian is surprisingly easy to reach from both France and Switzerland.

Regular ferries cross Lake Geneva between Évian with Lausanne throughout the day.

From Geneva Airport you can drive in around an hour and twenty minutes.

Trains run from Geneva and Bellegarde via Annemasse and Thonon-les-Bains.

In summer, lake steamers and ferries make arriving by water particularly memorable.

If you’re staying in nearby resorts such as Thollon les Memises, Bernex or Lugrin, Évian also makes an ideal day trip.

The post Évian-les-Bains: The Most Elegant Town on Lake Geneva? appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

I’d been sent there by my skincare obsessed daughter.  “French skincare, honestly mum, where have you been?”

— obviously implying that I resemble a hand-woven basket most days.

France hasn’t entirely shaken me off

Now I’m back in Scotland, after a few years living in Thollon in the Haute Savoie. But I realise that France hasn’t entirely shaken me off, in fact, it appears to have followed me home.

That effortlessly chic, well-groomed look with the radiantly healthy glow might be everywhere in St Tropez.

Here in Glasgow though…. chic is what you buy in the supermarket when you can’t afford the whole chicken. As for grooming …well, let’s not go there.

Assistants look at me as if thinking I’d be better in the bricolage department.

But who cares?

Some of those habits acquired living above Lake Geneva are apparently hard to leave behind.

On the language front, nothing much has changed. I still have moments when I’m completely baffled, but a nod and a smile work in both countries.

Don’t get me wrong. I love being back in Scotland for all the usual reasons — the hills the lochs, those soft misty mornings and muted colours.

That’s the Scotland of the tourist brochures and it’s stunning.

For me, however, it’s the slightly sharp corners in the street art, the humour, the forgotten stories and the architecture.

Very different countries… but equally loveable.

But that doesn’t mean that there isn’t still a strong link between Scotland and France. The connection runs deep — right back to the days of the Auld Alliance — and somehow it still exists.

Luckily for me too.

A little ‘je ne sais quoi’ in Glasgow

On those days when I need a little ‘je ne sais quoi’, I know that I can touch base with France, even in the heart of Glasgow.

Yes, even here there are pavement cafes where you can sit in those little French bistro chairs sipping your early morning espresso with a warm croissant.

Slip into the French Patisserie and you can be transported to a Parisian bakery, where cakes sit like jewels on clean white trays.

Where the baguettes jostle for position in neatly ranged wicker baskets and the smell of freshly baked bread fills the air.

That exists here, in Glasgow, too.

But it’s those little, almost subconscious, things that make me realise France is still very much a part of my life.

It’s noticing when you go shopping, you’re the only one carrying a basket.

“Bag for Life” madam?

“Er …  no thank you, I have this incredible straw basket with soft leather handles. Hand-woven in Yvoire by a rugged French artisan wearing a fetching beret”.

Well, the beret bit is true anyway. The basket … probably imported from China.

The fact that I end up carrying most of the shopping under my arm, because nothing actually fits in the basket, is entirely beside the point.

It’s French.

Fresh flowers are another thing.  Not supermarket carnations wrapped in crackling cellophane but huge showy peonies, heavenly scented gardenias and old fashioned French roses.

I suspect it’s a perfume thing.

A little cream with that?

And that French skincare has followed me home too. The iconic A313 …. which sounds less like a beauty product and more like a motorway — now arrives by post from The French Pharmacy in London.

And then there’s Embryolisse, my latest miracle cream. The tube bears an unfortunate resemblance to my toothpaste, which has led to understandable confusion on more than one occasion.

I’ve even caught myself squeezing a Camembert in the cheese shop. Much to the horror of the shopkeeper who said something Glaswegian that didn’t sound entirely encouraging. I refer you back to the nod and smile strategy.

Tiny rituals

Perhaps that’s really what I miss most about France — not the big dramatic things, but the tiny rituals that make ordinary days feel just slightly more beautiful.

And if you’re ever in Scotland, in Glasgow in particular, I’m the person in the striped t-shirt with the M&S baguette crumbs under my arm.

• And I don’t care

The post Baguette Crumbs Everywhere: France Followed Me Home appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

Maybe you’re curious to see villas and gardens hidden from the road, or little secluded beaches that the locals keep to themselves. Perhaps you want to explore small ports that once sheltered fishing boats from storms.

On a hot summer’s day, when the lake is like a mirror, the only breeze to be found is out on the water. Sooner or later, most people want to get afloat.

We could, of course, build a raft from the driftwood that washes down from the mountains. But quite honestly, there are much more stylish ways to get afloat.

Quick Guide: Best Ways to Get on Lake Geneva

–  Best for views & atmosphere: CGN paddle steamers
–  Best for history & charm: The Savoie
– Best for independence: Small power boats
– Best for budget & ease: Ferries
– Best for families: Pedalos and paddleboards

CGN Paddle Steamers

The Swiss registered CGN Belle Epoque fleet operates eight paddle-steamers from around 1900 on Lake Geneva, and they’re stunning.

Their sleek white hulls glide effortlessly along the lake, linking the main waterside towns on both the French and Swiss shores.  Their giant paddles churn the water like a witch’s cauldron.

As the paddle-steamer approaches the jetty there’s a long blast on the horn. Clouds of white steam billow from the funnels and the Swiss flag flutters proudly from its stern.

Children jostle on the jetty, hoping to be first along the wobbly gangplank and grab the best deckchairs on the upper decks. Day-trippers head to the Belle Epoque restaurant, with its plush carpet, varnished wood and polished brass. The panoramic windows frame the mountains that seem to rise straight from the lake.

CGN offers everything  from ‘Wine Tasting on the Deck’ to the ‘History and Culture of the French Riviera’. There are breakfast cruises,  sunset cruises and just plain ‘put your feet up and relax’ cruises.

Not a bad way to spend a day.

The Savoie (Historic Sailing Boat)

If a paddle steamer is a little too hi-tech for you, there’s always the Savoie.  A replica of a 19^th century wooden trading vessel, permanently moored in Evian.

The Savoie sails most weekends from May until October.  Whether she unfurls her magnificent double sails depends heavily on the ‘meteo’.

Even without sails it’s a wonderful way to be out on the water.  You can sit on the deck, listen to the creaking of the wooden hull as it lists gently, and hear echoes of the lake’s trading past.

Power Boats on Lake Geneva

Small power boats fill the marinas of the lake.  It’s still possible to pick up a bargain on the ‘Bon Coin’ but finding a mooring is like gold dust.

We were lucky enough to find a small day boat that came with a mooring. With an RYA Powerboat Level 2 certificate and ICC (International Certificate of Competence) we could get out on the water whenever the sun shone.

I’m still not entirely sure where the ‘Competence’ bit came in.

We quickly discovered how difficult it is to manoeuvre a boat in a packed marine. Steer left and it goes right, steer right and it goes left. Basically, it just has a mind of its own —which makes the whole parking situation something of a spectator sport.

“Just let it drift” … was the less-than-calm instruction. “No, don’t pull that rope…just don’t touch anything…just…oh for goodness’ sake” (or words to that effect).

As the boat wedges itself — not lengthways but sideways — between two perfectly moored boats. Much to the amusement of the onlookers.

Exit one slightly frazzled crew member.

Rental Power Boats (No Licence Needed)

If you don’t want the commitment, you can still rent a small, speed-limited powerboat without a license from a kiosk on the front in Evian. They seat 4 comfortably and you can cruise slowly along the promenades, admiring the views.

However, if you’re simply after the experience of being on the water at Lake Geneva then I’d honestly recommend the Savoie or CGN paddle steamer.

Ferries Across Lake Geneva

There’s always the ever popular commuter ferries that ply their way back and forth from Evian to Lausanne, and link towns all around the lake.  They can be pricey, and it’s best to avoid peak commuting times if you want to get a seat.

If you’re planning a daytrip to Lausanne or the vineyards of the Vaud then your ferry ticket can even include the metro that takes you from the quayside up into the city. Lausanne, as you’ll quickly discover, is very hilly.

Sailing and Yachts

Sailing schools dot the lake.  The one in Evian sits next to the marina and offers sailing lessons for children as young as four.  A colourful line of small catamarans and Lasers stretches along the jetty, all available to rent.

As for the larger yachts, I’m afraid I can’t help much there — but the yacht club might be a good place to start.

Paddleboards and Pedalos

For something a little more laid back, why not try paddle boarding?  While the Lake can feel a little intimidating in places, there are plenty of small beaches where you can rent paddle boards by the hour and enjoy a dip.

One of the best spots is Excenevex, a long sandy beach that shelves gently into the water. Stay close to the shore and you’ll never be in deeper than your waist — and the water’s noticeably warmer too.

Pedalos can be rented from most of the main beaches around the lake.

Which option should you choose?

If it’s your first visit – CGN
If you like independence – rent a boat
If you’re short on time – ferry
If it’s a hot day – paddleboards and pedalos
If you want something quieter – Savoie

However you choose to get out there — drifting lazily on a paddleboard, gripping the wheel of a slightly wayward day boat, or gliding across the lake on a Belle Epoque steamer — the magic is the same.

The shoreline looks different from the water. The mountains feel closer, the villages quieter. And before you know it, you’re not just looking at the lake anymore — you’re part of it, in a good way.

Practical tips for getting on the water

Best time of day:

Every day is different on the lake, and it also depends on the time of year. Assuming you’re visiting in summer, and from our own experience, avoiding the heat of early afternoons is a good plan.

You have little protection from the sun and, if you factor in the reflection from the water, you can quickly get sunburnt.  A breeze can also make it seem deceptively cool. Many people head out for an hour or so around 4pm and there can be less people in and out of the ports in the mornings.

Weather warning:

One thing you quickly realise is that the wind does exactly as it pleases. You start to read the clouds, watch for ripples in the distance, and feel the wind on your face.

There’s a system of orange flashing lights at strategic points all around the shoreline. Slow flashes mean you have time to get back to your home port before the storm hits. Rapid flashes mean head for the nearest port as quickly as you can.

From the balcony in Thollon, we could see the flashing lights and have time to bring in the dinner plates.

The best weather website for the lake at Evian is ‘Meteo Marine’. Looking at the forecast is vital before venturing out on the lake.

Booking Ahead (CGN):

All ferry information is available on the CGN website

Peak season notes:

Like any holiday destination it’s always best to book in advance to be guaranteed your place, especially for weekends or public holidays.

Rough price guide:

The main short cruises on the Savoie in Evian are currently:

Adults: around €13-18
Children: (6-12): around €8-10
Under 6’s: free

They also run longer themed cruises like sunset/music evenings: roughly €35-60 and full ‘Grand Lac’ day cruises with meal included: around €80

CGN prices vary depending on distance, route and whether you choose a simple crossing or one of the longer Belle Epoque cruises.

As a rough guide, expect to pay around €45-50 for a return crossing from Evian to Lausanne.  Longer lunch or sightseeing cruises can range from around €90-120 per person.

It’s always worth checking the CGN website in advance for current timetables and seasonal offers.

The post How to Get Out on Lake Geneva: Paddle Steamers, Boats and Ferries appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

And fair enough. They’re beautiful.

High above the lake, tucked into the mountains, there’s a small Alpine village that doesn’t need to make a fuss — it’s just one of the best places around.

Thollon-les-Mémises.

If you’ve ever stood by the lakeside and found yourself looking up at the mountains, wondering what’s up there …this is it — and if you’re discovering Thollon for the first time, think of this as a gentle introduction.

Still wondering whether it’s worth the detour — or what there actually is to do — the answer is more than you might think.

The view over Lake Geneva

There are views…and then there are views.

From Thollon, the whole of Lake Geneva opens out below you – wide, silvery, and constantly changing.  You can see right across to Switzerland — not just on a clear day, but every day — with Lausanne sitting quietly on the opposite shore and the boats tracing slow, deliberate paths across the water.

It’s one of those places where you find yourself stopping mid-sentence just to look.

And then stopping again five minutes later.

And again.

It’s a ski resort – and it depends when you go

Yes, Thollon is a ski resort.

But what it feels like depends entirely on when you’re there.

Come during the school holidays – Christmas, New Year, February – and it’s full-on. Car parks overflowing. Queues for the lifts. Children everywhere. That slightly frantic energy that builds up as everyone tries to make the most of their week in the mountains.

It can feel busy. Properly busy.

Then January arrives… and everything changes.

Suddenly it’s quieter. You recognise faces. There’s space again – on the slopes, in the cafés, even in the car park.

March sits somewhere in between. A bit more relaxed, but still with a sense of the season ticking along.

And then, right at the end, those last sunny weekends bring everyone back out again. One final burst -ending with a giant village party- before it all winds down again.

Same place. Completely different experiences.

If you’re after peace and quiet, avoid the school holidays. If you don’t mind a bit of chaos, you’ll fit right in.

It’s quite hard to beat.

Summer in Thollon has a life of its own

If winter belongs to the slopes, summer belongs to the lake.

And when the weather turns – properly warm, blue skies, that clear Alpine light – people head down. Not up.

The beaches along Lake Geneva fill quickly. Towels spread out early, children in and out of the water. It’s a different energy altogether.

Up in Thollon the lifts open again at the beginning of May, but this time for walkers. The mountain changes character completely — green replacing white, wildflowers appearing almost overnight along the paths

You can walk for hours here.

Sometimes properly, boots on, slightly out of breath.

Spend the morning up in the hills and be down by the water in the afternoon. It’s not about choosing between the mountains and the lake.

You get both.

The in-between seasons are when you really see it

This is the bit most people miss.

The weeks between winter and summer, when the snow retreats slowly up the mountain and the village seems to pause, take a breath, and reset.

Shops close for a while. The gondola stops. The carparks empty.

And suddenly you hear everything.

Water running everywhere as the snow melts. Birds you didn’t notice before. It’s quieter yes – but not in a sad way. More like the village is stretching after a long season and getting ready to begin again.

If you want to understand a place, come when nothing much is happening.

It’s just above Evian – but feels a world away

One of the nicest surprises about Thollon is how close it is to everything… and yet how separate it feels.

Evian is just down the road – lakeside cafés, boats coming and going, that slightly polished Riviera feel.

But a short drive up the mountain and you’re somewhere completely different.

Cooler air. Slower pace. Fewer people. Bigger views.

You can dip in and out of both worlds in a single day – morning coffee by the lake, afternoon up in the mountains, evening watching the light fade and the sunsets over the water.

It’s a very easy place to settle into.

So…is Thollon Worth Visiting?

If you’re looking for somewhere in the French Alps that combines mountain air, lake views and a slightly more understated kind of charm – then yes.

Very much so.

It doesn’t try too hard. It doesn’t need to. But it stays with you.

And once you’ve been, you tend to find yourself looking up at those mountains from the lakeside and thinking…

I know what’s up there.

The post 5 Things You Didn’t Know About Thollon-les-Mémises (above Lake Geneva) appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

I can’t offer you a lap of the circuit… but I can offer something almost as entertaining.

A wander through the city – when barriers are going up, the crowds haven’t quite arrived, and the whole place feels like it’s gearing up for something a little dramatic.

Start at the Places des Armes

Begin in Place des Armes, a short walk down from the Palais.

It’s lively in the mornings – proper local life rather than polished Monaco. Market stalls, bright fruit, the small of warm socca and pissaladière drifting through the square.

Cafés spill out under the arches, the shaded tables already taken by people who clearly know what they’re doing.

If you want one of those tables, book ahead. Or accept your fate and sit in the sun like the rest of us..

A few Monaco observations

• Men in tight suits….no socks ‘de rigueur’
• Sunglasses that probably cost more than your holiday
• An unexpected obsession with mashed potato

Yes, really.

Monaco may be the land of yachts and supercars, but its also the kingdom of the mashed potato. It’s everywhere. On every menu. And, slightly annoyingly, it’s excellent.

Grand Prix build-up

Even in April, Monaco is already preparing for its most important event of the year – the Grand Prix.

Grandstands rise in neat blue rows. Metal barriers line the streets. The whole town begins to feel like a stage set.

And the strange thing is – even without a race car – you can still feel the excitement.

Drive the circuit in an ordinary car (a humble Fiat 500 will do just fine) and suddenly you’re noticing the bends, the climbs, the impossibly tight corners. You start to imagine the noise, the speed, the crowds leaning over the barriers.

It’s a car lover’s paradise – the kind of place that makes you want to ditch the glitz and head straight for the Route des Grandes Alpes.

Outside the casino, every day feels like a private motor show.

Cars glide in, gleaming, engines purring. Doors click shut, and for a moment you’re not quite sure who’s on display – the cars or their owners.

Lunch, here, is a performance.

Cafés, casinos and slight disappointments

Opposite the square, the Café de Paris is perfect for people watching. The rich, the famous, and the wannabes.

Over a cappuccino. Add a glass of fresh orange juice. Sit back and enjoy the theatre. You could easily convince yourself you’re in a film.

Then, of course, there is the famous casino.

You can peek inside – and you probably should – but manage your expectations.
‘The Man Who Broke the Bank at Monte Carlo’ turns out to be ….a rather oversized cartoon figure surrounded by giant Monopoly money.

Not quite the glamour I’d imagined.

A touch of old Monaco

Monaco does have history beneath the gloss.

Grace Kelly lived here. Married Prince Rainier. Became part of the story.

The royal palace, perched above the town, is open to visitors. It doesn’t reveal much of royal life, but inside – frescoes, marble, quiet opulent rooms – there’s a surprising sense of calm. An oasis away from the noise below.

Yachts (of course)

You can’t come to Monaco and ignore the yachts.

These aren’t boats. They’re floating worlds. Fully crewed, multi-million pound, five-star residences. Monaco doesn’t really do understatement.

They line the harbour in front of the Yacht Club – white, gleaming, slightly unreal. Strolling past them you can’t help wondering who owns them…and what their lives look like.

A changing coastline

To the east, Monaco is still growing.

A new stretch of reclaimed land is being transformed into a sandy beach with sun loungers, backed by restaurants and bars. It’s a long way from the relatively natural unspoilt beaches of Lake Geneva but it’s clean, bright, and unmistakably designed to please.

It’s already popular, and certain to be more so in the summer months.

Getting around

Monaco is surprisingly easy to navigate:

Hop-on-hop-off bus: about €26 for the day
Local buses: cheap and frequent
Walking: often the best option (if you don’t mind hills)

If you’re staying in Menton for example – the coastal train takes about 15 minutes, and the views are worth the journey alone.

A walk worth doing

If you have the time (and the energy), walk along the coastal path into Monaco.

It takes around two hours and passes some stunning spots – including the Eileen Gray house and villas once stayed in by Winston Churchill while he painted the beauty of the Riviera.

There’s a café at Beaulieu about halfway. You’ll need it.

Bring water, good shoes, and sun protection. This is not a stroll to underestimate.

And finally…

Yes, Monaco can feel excessive. There’s constant building work. Too many people. Too much money on display. And yet…

It still has glamour… it still has atmosphere… and it still has sunshine.

Would James Bond like it?  I don’t think he’d be shaken.

But he’d definitely be stirred.

The post A Spin Around Monaco before the Grand Prix appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

You hear it before you really see it.  From the balcony above the lake you can hear a soft sigh, as if the whole place is gently exhaling.

The first sign is the water.  Snowmelt is everywhere – running along the edges of the road, dripping from rooftops, trickling across pathways. Snow, which only weeks ago covered everything, begins its quiet retreat up the mountain.

After the clear, bright ‘bluebird’ days of the ski season, the sky softens too. The flat greys of early Spring give way to blue again. Everything feels lighter – even if there’s still a chill in the air that catches you off guard.

And then, just as the days begin to hint at summer…everything pauses for a moment.

After Easter, when the last skiers have gone, the village seems to take a breath.The gondola closes briefly for maintenance before reopening at weekends in May.

Car parks empty. Even the bus to Evian stops its daily grind up and down the hill. Cafes and restaurants shut their doors for a while – terraces stacked neatly and waiting.

There’s an odd stillness.

It’s just…. quiet.

As things slow down you start to notice the little details – birdsong replaces the background hum of visitors.

Up on the Hucel, where the radio tower overlooks Lake Geneva, red kites circle lazily in the warming air before drifting out across the water.

The meadows and the pathways burst into flower – the fields carpeted with golden dandelions.

And the cats return.

Each field surrounding the village has its own silent guardian, sitting proudly at the centre of its little domain. It’s one of the little things that I love about Thollon.

A few second-home owners drift through, carefully avoiding school holidays. But, for the most part, the village feels as though it’s been left to itself.

And then, very quietly, life begins again,

Down by the lake in Evian, there’s a gentle stir of activity.

Not busy. Just purposeful.

Boats are opened up after winter – engines checked, chrome polished, bags carried back and forth along the pontoon. The same quiet rituals, every year. Fridges are stocked with a few essentials… and, of course, a bottle of wine.

This is France after all.

Along the waterfront, the promenades begin to bloom again.  In Evian, workmen  are out replanting the borders bringing colour back to the town.

And then there are the smaller details.

Birds nesting quietly in the backs of boats, undisturbed until the chicks have hatched. The lido being cleaned and prepared for the new season.

The old wooden trading vessel, the Savoie, one of the last of its kind on Lake Geneva, is made ready once again.  Her great double sails catching the fresh spring winds like echoes from another time.

Nothing dramatic. No grand reopening.  Just small signs, one after the other.

Spring in Thollon isn’t a showy season.

It doesn’t arrive with crowds or colour or noise, it comes quietly – in the sound of water, in that pause after Easter, in the gentle return of life along the lake.

And if you’re lucky enough to be there in that in-between moment, you begin to see it for what it really is –

Not the start of something,

But the quiet turning of the year.

The post Spring in Thollon: The Quiet Season Above Lake Geneva appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

Snaking its way through rocky gorges and across ice-blue rivers, winding over snow-covered peaks, and meandering gently through lush, flower-strewn meadows.

The Route crosses 17 mountain passes, visits some of the most beautiful stone-built villages in France, and finally descends towards the shimmering Mediterranean at Menton.

What audacity it has taken to conceive it, what temerity to undertake it, and what genius to complete it!

French President, Albert Lebrun, 1938

The idea of a Route des Grandes Alpes was conceived in 1903 by the Touring Club de France, a social club devoted to promoting tourism and travel. Interrupted by the First World War, the road wasn’t fully opened until 1937.

The journey unfolds in four glorious stages, beginning on the shores of Lake Geneva before climbing through the high Alps and eventually descending towards the warmth of Menton and the Cote d’Azur.

From Lake Geneva to the Alps

Beginning in Thonon, the  Route des Grandes Alpes climbs alongside the rushing waters of the River Dranse, heading up towards the Valley d’Abondance. In the flower strewn Alpine meadows the Abondance cows, source of the valley’s famous rich, nutty cheese, lift their heads to watch us pass.

Continuing, we pass the Gorges du Diable, the Devil’s Gorge. The sculpted rockface and the icy river running 50 metres below are the result of thousands of years of glacial erosion.

We pass the well-known ski resorts of Morzine and Les Gets. The skiers left weeks ago but soon the hikers will arrive to reawaken these sleepy mountain resorts.

On we roll to Taninges. Sitting in the roadside yard of the local brocante in Taninges are dozens of vintage chairlifts and ski gondolas. All looking for a new home.  What better souvenir of the Alps!

Beyond Taninges the road climbs through the rolling meadows of Le Reposoir, where a Carmelite Monastery nestles against a backdrop of jagged snow-capped mountains. Quaint wooden chalets, the constant clanking of cowbells and the pure crisp mountain air add to the sense of freedom and exhilaration.

Into the High Alps

On the terrace of the café at the Col des Aravis, a nimble woman in her mid-70s slips into a seat next to me. Fully clad in racing lycra she’s just completed the 2000 metre cycle to the top.

I wheeze my way through lunch and a delicious Myrtle Tart, and amble back to the car, blaming my lack of fitness on the lack of lycra… obviously.

In the little town of Flumet, you can have lunch on one of the terraces hanging precariously above the torrent. All accompanied by the sound of water as it surges down the gorge.

From Flumet the road begins its serious climb towards Val d’Isere,  continuing ever higher to the Col de L’Iseran. It certainly tests the resilience of our ancient little car. At 2770 metres this is the highest point of the journey.

The panoramic views of the snow-capped mountains are spectacular.  This windswept pass is only open in the summer months, and even then, it’s always bitterly cold.  Pack an extra jumper or two so you can step out onto the top of the world and let the wind blow the cobwebs away.

Often featured in the Tour de France, this stretch of road is painted with colourful slogans, designed to be visible by drones or helicopters during the race.

Clumps of vintage car enthusiasts grind their way up these passes on their way to the Cote d’Azur, adding a touch of old Riviera glamour to the journey.

The Wild Heart of the Route

Beyond the high pass the road enters the vast emptiness of the Haute Maurienne. The ebb and flow of ice over the millennia has defined the valleys and mountain ranges here, and the villages too. The rocky tails of retreating glaciers sit like exclamation marks in the history of these valleys.

A real highlight here is Bonneval-sur-Arc, one of France’s most beautiful villages. Its stone houses, slate roofs and narrow alleyways seem almost untouched by time. In the harsh winters of the 1960’s the village was completely cut off for weeks and baguettes were airlifted in by helicopter.

In the Footsteps of Hannibal and Napoleon

From here the road snakes on through Bessans and Lanslevilard and begins its steep climb to the Col du Mont Cenis, 2084 m. This pass has been a major trading route connecting the Savoie and Italy since the Middle Ages.

Legend has it that this is where Hannibal and his elephants crossed the Alps on his way from Africa to Italy. There’s a monument to this staggering achievement by the roadside. It was Napoleon however, who built the road that crosses the pass in 1806 to move his troops more effectively.

This is a popular stretch of road for cyclists and motorbikes alike.

Across the High Passes

The 70 km downhill stretch to the foot of the Col de Telegraph passes through some of the Route’s most breath taking scenery. Here you can soak in the magnificence of the snow-capped mountains, marvel at the wild irises that grow at the side of the road and watch buzzards circling lazily overhead.

Nearby Valloire, with its beautiful stone houses, made us determined to return in winter.

Ahead lies one of the great legends of Alpine roads: the Col du Galibier. At 2,642 metres,  this windswept pass forms one of the most gruelling stretches of the Tour de France. Standing beside the monument to Henri Desgrange it’s impossible not to be overawed by man’s achievements

The Long Descent to the Riviera

The Col de Galibier marks the boundary between the Savoie and the Department of the Hautes Alpes.  To the audible relief of our little car, we begin the long descent towards the Mediterranean.

Next is the Col de Lautaret, home to an alpine garden with over 2000 mountain plants from around the world.

The Route des Grands Alps never ceases to surprise! Crossing the summit of the Col we pass a man and woman continuing the pilgrim tradition of crossing the Alps on foot with a fully laden donkey.

At Col de Izoard the scenery changes.

The brooding snow-capped mountains give way to honey-coloured rocky outcrops that sit like rows of broken teeth. The pines give way to more stately larch and cedar. The air is softer and the rock glows in the golden sunlight. The winding hairpin bends are dotted with groups of adrenaline fuelled cyclists that fly past us at the speed of light.

The South of France

It’s from this point onwards you really begin to feel you’re in the South of France.

Below us lies Barcelonette, a strategic trading and administrative centre since Roman times.  It’s elegant Belle Epoque villas give it a more sophisticated air than its neighbours. Clustered around the market square are small bars and restaurants that serve excellent ‘plats du jour’ with a southern twist.

What else, we wondered, does this incredible road still have to show us?

Next on the route is the Col de Cayolle, part of the Alpes Maritime. Most of this road has been challenging with its precipitous drops, its steep winding climbs and its eagle nest views. The Col de Cayolle is something else. Petrifying would be the word.

The single track road runs for 29 km alongside the river Var. There are ominous signs warning of rockfalls and the road ahead is scattered with small rocks as we edge our way along.

Then suddenly, looming in the distance, a nightmare appears: a large motorhome. There’s no room to pass and nowhere to turn  around. The only solution is a slow reverse around the hairpin bends. What fun! I’m so glad we decided to turn down that glass of wine at lunchtime.

But, it’s spectacular and one of the most unforgettable stretches of the whole route.

With our little car breathing another sigh of relief, we drive on through the striking red rocks of The Gorges de Dalius. At every stage of the journey the geology has changed: from the ancient sedimentary rock of the Alps, to retreating glaciers, to the rolling black lava north of Entraunes. A geography teacher’s dream.

The final stages of the Route take us through tunnels carved into the rock. We cruise over the Col St Martin and on towards the impressive hairpin bends of the Col de Turini.

The road continues twisting and winding its way down between the soaring peaks. Ancient olive groves cascade down the hillsides overlooked by hilltop towns and villages. Soon we reach the picturesque medieval town of Sospel, famed for its cathedral and the old toll bridge that straddles the river.

There’s a real sense of leaving the mountain behind. The cols become gentler and less challenging. Bright yellow flowers of laburnum trees line the banks and overshadow the road.

Then, through the trees and in the far distance, you catch your first glimpse of the shimmering Mediterranean.

Magnificent Menton

And suddenly, there is Menton, with its azure skies, swaying palm trees, ochre facades and the painted houses of the old town. It’s a riot of Riviera colour after the cool silence of the high Alps.

Now it’s time to reward ourselves with a glass of wine on the promenade at sunset. The Mediterranean gently lapping at our feet. Bliss.

If You’re Planning the Drive

Best Time to travel

We travelled in mid-June, just after the highest passes had been cleared of snow. The contrast between the cool Alpine air and the warm Mediterranean light made it a perfect time to experience the full route.

Watch the Weather 

Mountain weather changes quickly, and even in summer some sections can close unexpectedly, so always check conditions before setting off.

Allow Time to Linger 

Although we completed it in two days, allowing four or five gives you time to linger in villages, take detours, and full enjoy the drama of the journey.

If you do just one road trip in your life,

make it this one.

Interactive Map of the Route des Grandes Alpes

The post Take the High Road: A sensational Alpine route to the South of France appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.