Maybe you’re curious to see villas and gardens hidden from the road, or little secluded beaches that the locals keep to themselves. Perhaps you want to explore small ports that once sheltered fishing boats from storms.

On a hot summer’s day, when the lake is like a mirror, the only breeze to be found is out on the water. Sooner or later, most people want to get afloat.

We could, of course, build a raft from the driftwood that washes down from the mountains. But quite honestly, there are much more stylish ways to get afloat.

Quick Guide: Best Ways to Get on Lake Geneva

–  Best for views & atmosphere: CGN paddle steamers
–  Best for history & charm: The Savoie
– Best for independence: Small power boats
– Best for budget & ease: Ferries
– Best for families: Pedalos and paddleboards

CGN Paddle Steamers

The Swiss registered CGN Belle Epoque fleet operates eight paddle-steamers from around 1900 on Lake Geneva, and they’re stunning.

Their sleek white hulls glide effortlessly along the lake, linking the main waterside towns on both the French and Swiss shores.  Their giant paddles churn the water like a witch’s cauldron.

As the paddle-steamer approaches the jetty there’s a long blast on the horn. Clouds of white steam billow from the funnels and the Swiss flag flutters proudly from its stern.

Children jostle on the jetty, hoping to be first along the wobbly gangplank and grab the best deckchairs on the upper decks. Day-trippers head to the Belle Epoque restaurant, with its plush carpet, varnished wood and polished brass. The panoramic windows frame the mountains that seem to rise straight from the lake.

CGN offers everything  from ‘Wine Tasting on the Deck’ to the ‘History and Culture of the French Riviera’. There are breakfast cruises,  sunset cruises and just plain ‘put your feet up and relax’ cruises.

Not a bad way to spend a day.

The Savoie (Historic Sailing Boat)

If a paddle steamer is a little too hi-tech for you, there’s always the Savoie.  A replica of a 19^th century wooden trading vessel, permanently moored in Evian.

The Savoie sails most weekends from May until October.  Whether she unfurls her magnificent double sails depends heavily on the ‘meteo’.

Even without sails it’s a wonderful way to be out on the water.  You can sit on the deck, listen to the creaking of the wooden hull as it lists gently, and hear echoes of the lake’s trading past.

Power Boats on Lake Geneva

Small power boats fill the marinas of the lake.  It’s still possible to pick up a bargain on the ‘Bon Coin’ but finding a mooring is like gold dust.

We were lucky enough to find a small day boat that came with a mooring. With an RYA Powerboat Level 2 certificate and ICC (International Certificate of Competence) we could get out on the water whenever the sun shone.

I’m still not entirely sure where the ‘Competence’ bit came in.

We quickly discovered how difficult it is to manoeuvre a boat in a packed marine. Steer left and it goes right, steer right and it goes left. Basically, it just has a mind of its own —which makes the whole parking situation something of a spectator sport.

“Just let it drift” … was the less-than-calm instruction. “No, don’t pull that rope…just don’t touch anything…just…oh for goodness’ sake” (or words to that effect).

As the boat wedges itself — not lengthways but sideways — between two perfectly moored boats. Much to the amusement of the onlookers.

Exit one slightly frazzled crew member.

Rental Power Boats (No Licence Needed)

If you don’t want the commitment, you can still rent a small, speed-limited powerboat without a license from a kiosk on the front in Evian. They seat 4 comfortably and you can cruise slowly along the promenades, admiring the views.

However, if you’re simply after the experience of being on the water at Lake Geneva then I’d honestly recommend the Savoie or CGN paddle steamer.

Ferries Across Lake Geneva

There’s always the ever popular commuter ferries that ply their way back and forth from Evian to Lausanne, and link towns all around the lake.  They can be pricey, and it’s best to avoid peak commuting times if you want to get a seat.

If you’re planning a daytrip to Lausanne or the vineyards of the Vaud then your ferry ticket can even include the metro that takes you from the quayside up into the city. Lausanne, as you’ll quickly discover, is very hilly.

Sailing and Yachts

Sailing schools dot the lake.  The one in Evian sits next to the marina and offers sailing lessons for children as young as four.  A colourful line of small catamarans and Lasers stretches along the jetty, all available to rent.

As for the larger yachts, I’m afraid I can’t help much there — but the yacht club might be a good place to start.

Paddleboards and Pedalos

For something a little more laid back, why not try paddle boarding?  While the Lake can feel a little intimidating in places, there are plenty of small beaches where you can rent paddle boards by the hour and enjoy a dip.

One of the best spots is Excenevex, a long sandy beach that shelves gently into the water. Stay close to the shore and you’ll never be in deeper than your waist — and the water’s noticeably warmer too.

Pedalos can be rented from most of the main beaches around the lake.

Which option should you choose?

If it’s your first visit – CGN
If you like independence – rent a boat
If you’re short on time – ferry
If it’s a hot day – paddleboards and pedalos
If you want something quieter – Savoie

However you choose to get out there — drifting lazily on a paddleboard, gripping the wheel of a slightly wayward day boat, or gliding across the lake on a Belle Epoque steamer — the magic is the same.

The shoreline looks different from the water. The mountains feel closer, the villages quieter. And before you know it, you’re not just looking at the lake anymore — you’re part of it, in a good way.

Practical tips for getting on the water

Best time of day:

Every day is different on the lake, and it also depends on the time of year. Assuming you’re visiting in summer, and from our own experience, avoiding the heat of early afternoons is a good plan.

You have little protection from the sun and, if you factor in the reflection from the water, you can quickly get sunburnt.  A breeze can also make it seem deceptively cool. Many people head out for an hour or so around 4pm and there can be less people in and out of the ports in the mornings.

Weather warning:

One thing you quickly realise is that the wind does exactly as it pleases. You start to read the clouds, watch for ripples in the distance, and feel the wind on your face.

There’s a system of orange flashing lights at strategic points all around the shoreline. Slow flashes mean you have time to get back to your home port before the storm hits. Rapid flashes mean head for the nearest port as quickly as you can.

From the balcony in Thollon, we could see the flashing lights and have time to bring in the dinner plates.

The best weather website for the lake at Evian is ‘Meteo Marine’. Looking at the forecast is vital before venturing out on the lake.

Booking Ahead (CGN):

All ferry information is available on the CGN website

Peak season notes:

Like any holiday destination it’s always best to book in advance to be guaranteed your place, especially for weekends or public holidays.

Rough price guide:

The main short cruises on the Savoie in Evian are currently:

Adults: around €13-18
Children: (6-12): around €8-10
Under 6’s: free

They also run longer themed cruises like sunset/music evenings: roughly €35-60 and full ‘Grand Lac’ day cruises with meal included: around €80

CGN prices vary depending on distance, route and whether you choose a simple crossing or one of the longer Belle Epoque cruises.

As a rough guide, expect to pay around €45-50 for a return crossing from Evian to Lausanne.  Longer lunch or sightseeing cruises can range from around €90-120 per person.

It’s always worth checking the CGN website in advance for current timetables and seasonal offers.

The post How to Get Out on Lake Geneva: Paddle Steamers, Boats and Ferries appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

And fair enough. They’re beautiful.

High above the lake, tucked into the mountains, there’s a small Alpine village that doesn’t need to make a fuss — it’s just one of the best places around.

Thollon-les-Mémises.

If you’ve ever stood by the lakeside and found yourself looking up at the mountains, wondering what’s up there …this is it — and if you’re discovering Thollon for the first time, consider this a gentle introduction.

Still wondering whether it’s worth the detour — or what there actually is to do — the answer is more than you might think.

The view over Lake Geneva

There are views…and then there are views.

From Thollon, the whole of Lake Geneva opens out below you – wide, silvery, and constantly changing.  You can see right across to Switzerland — not just on a clear day, but every day — with Lausanne sitting quietly on the opposite shore and the boats tracing slow, deliberate paths across the water.

It’s one of those places where you find yourself stopping mid-sentence just to look.

And then stopping again five minutes later.

And again.

It’s a ski resort – and it depends when you go

Yes, Thollon is a ski resort.

But what it feels like depends entirely on when you’re there.

Come during the school holidays – Christmas, New Year, February – and it’s full-on. Car parks overflowing. Queues for the lifts. Children everywhere. That slightly frantic energy that builds up as everyone tries to make the most of their week in the mountains.

It can feel busy. Properly busy.

Then January arrives… and everything changes.

Suddenly it’s quieter. You recognise faces. There’s space again – on the slopes, in the cafés, even in the car park.

March sits somewhere in between. A bit more relaxed, but still with a sense of the season ticking along.

And then, right at the end, those last sunny weekends bring everyone back out again. One final burst -ending with a giant village party- before it all winds down again.

Same place. Completely different experiences.

If you’re after peace and quiet, avoid the school holidays. If you don’t mind a bit of chaos, you’ll fit right in.

It’s quite hard to beat.

Summer in Thollon has a life of its own

If winter belongs to the slopes, summer belongs to the lake.

And when the weather turns – properly warm, blue skies, that clear Alpine light – people head down. Not up.

The beaches along Lake Geneva fill quickly. Towels spread out early, children in and out of the water. It’s a different energy altogether.

Up in Thollon the lifts open again at the beginning of May, but this time for walkers. The mountain changes character completely — green replacing white, wildflowers appearing almost overnight along the paths

You can walk for hours here.

Sometimes properly, boots on, slightly out of breath.

Spend the morning up in the hills and be down by the water in the afternoon. It’s not about choosing between the mountains and the lake.

You get both.

The in-between seasons are when you really see it

This is the bit most people miss.

The weeks between winter and summer, when the snow retreats slowly up the mountain and the village seems to pause, take a breath, and reset.

Shops close for a while. The gondola stops. The carparks empty.

And suddenly you hear everything.

Water running everywhere as the snow melts. Birds you didn’t notice before. It’s quieter yes – but not in a sad way. More like the village is stretching after a long season and getting ready to begin again.

If you want to understand a place, come when nothing much is happening.

It’s just above Evian – but feels a world away

One of the nicest surprises about Thollon is how close it is to everything… and yet how separate it feels.

Evian is just down the road – lakeside cafés, boats coming and going, that slightly polished Riviera feel.

But a short drive up the mountain and you’re somewhere completely different.

Cooler air. Slower pace. Fewer people. Bigger views.

You can dip in and out of both worlds in a single day – morning coffee by the lake, afternoon up in the mountains, evening watching the light fade and the sunsets over the water.

It’s a very easy place to settle into.

So…is Thollon Worth Visiting?

If you’re looking for somewhere in the French Alps that combines mountain air, lake views and a slightly more understated kind of charm – then yes.

Very much so.

It doesn’t try too hard. It doesn’t need to. But it stays with you.

And once you’ve been, you tend to find yourself looking up at those mountains from the lakeside and thinking…

I know what’s up there.

The post 5 Things You Didn’t Know About Thollon-les-Mémises (above Lake Geneva) appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

I can’t offer you a lap of the circuit… but I can offer something almost as entertaining.

A wander through the city – when barriers are going up, the crowds haven’t quite arrived, and the whole place feels like it’s gearing up for something a little dramatic.

Start at the Places des Armes

Begin in Place des Armes, a short walk down from the Palais.

It’s lively in the mornings – proper local life rather than polished Monaco. Market stalls, bright fruit, the small of warm socca and pissaladière drifting through the square.

Cafés spill out under the arches, the shaded tables already taken by people who clearly know what they’re doing.

If you want one of those tables, book ahead. Or accept your fate and sit in the sun like the rest of us..

A few Monaco observations

• Men in tight suits….no socks ‘de rigueur’
• Sunglasses that probably cost more than your holiday
• An unexpected obsession with mashed potato

Yes, really.

Monaco may be the land of yachts and supercars, but its also the kingdom of the mashed potato. It’s everywhere. On every menu. And, slightly annoyingly, it’s excellent.

Grand Prix build-up

Even in April, Monaco is already preparing for its most important event of the year – the Grand Prix.

Grandstands rise in neat blue rows. Metal barriers line the streets. The whole town begins to feel like a stage set.

And the strange thing is – even without a race car – you can still feel the excitement.

Drive the circuit in an ordinary car (a humble Fiat 500 will do just fine) and suddenly you’re noticing the bends, the climbs, the impossibly tight corners. You start to imagine the noise, the speed, the crowds leaning over the barriers.

It’s a car lover’s paradise – the kind of place that makes you want to ditch the glitz and head straight for the Route des Grandes Alpes.

Outside the casino, every day feels like a private motor show.

Cars glide in, gleaming, engines purring. Doors click shut, and for a moment you’re not quite sure who’s on display – the cars or their owners.

Lunch, here, is a performance.

Cafés, casinos and slight disappointments

Opposite the square, the Café de Paris is perfect for people watching. The rich, the famous, and the wannabes.

Over a cappuccino. Add a glass of fresh orange juice. Sit back and enjoy the theatre. You could easily convince yourself you’re in a film.

Then, of course, there is the famous casino.

You can peek inside – and you probably should – but manage your expectations.
‘The Man Who Broke the Bank at Monte Carlo’ turns out to be ….a rather oversized cartoon figure surrounded by giant Monopoly money.

Not quite the glamour I’d imagined.

A touch of old Monaco

Monaco does have history beneath the gloss.

Grace Kelly lived here. Married Prince Rainier. Became part of the story.

The royal palace, perched above the town, is open to visitors. It doesn’t reveal much of royal life, but inside – frescoes, marble, quiet opulent rooms – there’s a surprising sense of calm. An oasis away from the noise below.

Yachts (of course)

You can’t come to Monaco and ignore the yachts.

These aren’t boats. They’re floating worlds. Fully crewed, multi-million pound, five-star residences. Monaco doesn’t really do understatement.

They line the harbour in front of the Yacht Club – white, gleaming, slightly unreal. Strolling past them you can’t help wondering who owns them…and what their lives look like.

A changing coastline

To the east, Monaco is still growing.

A new stretch of reclaimed land is being transformed into a sandy beach with sun loungers, backed by restaurants and bars. It’s a long way from the relatively natural unspoilt beaches of Lake Geneva but it’s clean, bright, and unmistakably designed to please.

It’s already popular, and certain to be more so in the summer months.

Getting around

Monaco is surprisingly easy to navigate:

Hop-on-hop-off bus: about €26 for the day
Local buses: cheap and frequent
Walking: often the best option (if you don’t mind hills)

If you’re staying in Menton for example – the coastal train takes about 15 minutes, and the views are worth the journey alone.

A walk worth doing

If you have the time (and the energy), walk along the coastal path into Monaco.

It takes around two hours and passes some stunning spots – including the Eileen Gray house and villas once stayed in by Winston Churchill while he painted the beauty of the Riviera.

There’s a café at Beaulieu about halfway. You’ll need it.

Bring water, good shoes, and sun protection. This is not a stroll to underestimate.

And finally…

Yes, Monaco can feel excessive. There’s constant building work. Too many people. Too much money on display. And yet…

It still has glamour… it still has atmosphere… and it still has sunshine.

Would James Bond like it?  I don’t think he’d be shaken.

But he’d definitely be stirred.

The post A Spin Around Monaco before the Grand Prix appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

You hear it before you really see it.  From the balcony above the lake you can hear a soft sigh, as if the whole place is gently exhaling.

The first sign is the water.  Snowmelt is everywhere – running along the edges of the road, dripping from rooftops, trickling across pathways. Snow, which only weeks ago covered everything, begins its quiet retreat up the mountain.

After the clear, bright ‘bluebird’ days of the ski season, the sky softens too. The flat greys of early Spring give way to blue again. Everything feels lighter – even if there’s still a chill in the air that catches you off guard.

And then, just as the days begin to hint at summer…everything pauses for a moment.

After Easter, when the last skiers have gone, the village seems to take a breath.The gondola closes briefly for maintenance before reopening at weekends in May.

Car parks empty. Even the bus to Evian stops its daily grind up and down the hill. Cafes and restaurants shut their doors for a while – terraces stacked neatly and waiting.

There’s an odd stillness.

It’s just…. quiet.

As things slow down you start to notice the little details – birdsong replaces the background hum of visitors.

Up on the Hucel, where the radio tower overlooks Lake Geneva, red kites circle lazily in the warming air before drifting out across the water.

The meadows and the pathways burst into flower – the fields carpeted with golden dandelions.

And the cats return.

Each field surrounding the village has its own silent guardian, sitting proudly at the centre of its little domain. It’s one of the little things that I love about Thollon.

A few second-home owners drift through, carefully avoiding school holidays. But, for the most part, the village feels as though it’s been left to itself.

And then, very quietly, life begins again,

Down by the lake in Evian, there’s a gentle stir of activity.

Not busy. Just purposeful.

Boats are opened up after winter – engines checked, chrome polished, bags carried back and forth along the pontoon. The same quiet rituals, every year. Fridges are stocked with a few essentials… and, of course, a bottle of wine.

This is France after all.

Along the waterfront, the promenades begin to bloom again.  In Evian, workmen  are out replanting the borders bringing colour back to the town.

And then there are the smaller details.

Birds nesting quietly in the backs of boats, undisturbed until the chicks have hatched. The lido being cleaned and prepared for the new season.

The old wooden trading vessel, the Savoie, one of the last of its kind on Lake Geneva, is made ready once again.  Her great double sails catching the fresh spring winds like echoes from another time.

Nothing dramatic. No grand reopening.  Just small signs, one after the other.

Spring in Thollon isn’t a showy season.

It doesn’t arrive with crowds or colour or noise, it comes quietly – in the sound of water, in that pause after Easter, in the gentle return of life along the lake.

And if you’re lucky enough to be there in that in-between moment, you begin to see it for what it really is –

Not the start of something,

But the quiet turning of the year.

The post Spring in Thollon: The Quiet Season Above Lake Geneva appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

Snaking its way through rocky gorges and across ice-blue rivers, winding over snow-covered peaks, and meandering gently through lush, flower-strewn meadows.

The Route crosses 17 mountain passes, visits some of the most beautiful stone-built villages in France, and finally descends towards the shimmering Mediterranean at Menton.

What audacity it has taken to conceive it, what temerity to undertake it, and what genius to complete it!

French President, Albert Lebrun, 1938

The idea of a Route des Grandes Alpes was conceived in 1903 by the Touring Club de France, a social club devoted to promoting tourism and travel. Interrupted by the First World War, the road wasn’t fully opened until 1937.

The journey unfolds in four glorious stages, beginning on the shores of Lake Geneva before climbing through the high Alps and eventually descending towards the warmth of Menton and the Cote d’Azur.

From Lake Geneva to the Alps

Beginning in Thonon, the  Route des Grandes Alpes climbs alongside the rushing waters of the River Dranse, heading up towards the Valley d’Abondance. In the flower strewn Alpine meadows the Abondance cows, source of the valley’s famous rich, nutty cheese, lift their heads to watch us pass.

Continuing, we pass the Gorges du Diable, the Devil’s Gorge. The sculpted rockface and the icy river running 50 metres below are the result of thousands of years of glacial erosion.

We pass the well-known ski resorts of Morzine and Les Gets. The skiers left weeks ago but soon the hikers will arrive to reawaken these sleepy mountain resorts.

On we roll to Taninges. Sitting in the roadside yard of the local brocante in Taninges are dozens of vintage chairlifts and ski gondolas. All looking for a new home.  What better souvenir of the Alps!

Beyond Taninges the road climbs through the rolling meadows of Le Reposoir, where a Carmelite Monastery nestles against a backdrop of jagged snow-capped mountains. Quaint wooden chalets, the constant clanking of cowbells and the pure crisp mountain air add to the sense of freedom and exhilaration.

Into the High Alps

On the terrace of the café at the Col des Aravis, a nimble woman in her mid-70s slips into a seat next to me. Fully clad in racing lycra she’s just completed the 2000 metre cycle to the top.

I wheeze my way through lunch and a delicious Myrtle Tart, and amble back to the car, blaming my lack of fitness on the lack of lycra… obviously.

In the little town of Flumet, you can have lunch on one of the terraces hanging precariously above the torrent. All accompanied by the sound of water as it surges down the gorge.

From Flumet the road begins its serious climb towards Val d’Isere,  continuing ever higher to the Col de L’Iseran. It certainly tests the resilience of our ancient little car. At 2770 metres this is the highest point of the journey.

The panoramic views of the snow-capped mountains are spectacular.  This windswept pass is only open in the summer months, and even then, it’s always bitterly cold.  Pack an extra jumper or two so you can step out onto the top of the world and let the wind blow the cobwebs away.

Often featured in the Tour de France, this stretch of road is painted with colourful slogans, designed to be visible by drones or helicopters during the race.

Clumps of vintage car enthusiasts grind their way up these passes on their way to the Cote d’Azur, adding a touch of old Riviera glamour to the journey.

The Wild Heart of the Route

Beyond the high pass the road enters the vast emptiness of the Haute Maurienne. The ebb and flow of ice over the millennia has defined the valleys and mountain ranges here, and the villages too. The rocky tails of retreating glaciers sit like exclamation marks in the history of these valleys.

A real highlight here is Bonneval-sur-Arc, one of France’s most beautiful villages. Its stone houses, slate roofs and narrow alleyways seem almost untouched by time. In the harsh winters of the 1960’s the village was completely cut off for weeks and baguettes were airlifted in by helicopter.

In the Footsteps of Hannibal and Napoleon

From here the road snakes on through Bessans and Lanslevilard and begins its steep climb to the Col du Mont Cenis, 2084 m. This pass has been a major trading route connecting the Savoie and Italy since the Middle Ages.

Legend has it that this is where Hannibal and his elephants crossed the Alps on his way from Africa to Italy. There’s a monument to this staggering achievement by the roadside. It was Napoleon however, who built the road that crosses the pass in 1806 to move his troops more effectively.

This is a popular stretch of road for cyclists and motorbikes alike.

Across the High Passes

The 70 km downhill stretch to the foot of the Col de Telegraph passes through some of the Route’s most breath taking scenery. Here you can soak in the magnificence of the snow-capped mountains, marvel at the wild irises that grow at the side of the road and watch buzzards circling lazily overhead.

Nearby Valloire, with its beautiful stone houses, made us determined to return in winter.

Ahead lies one of the great legends of Alpine roads: the Col du Galibier. At 2,642 metres,  this windswept pass forms one of the most gruelling stretches of the Tour de France. Standing beside the monument to Henri Desgrange it’s impossible not to be overawed by man’s achievements

The Long Descent to the Riviera

The Col de Galibier marks the boundary between the Savoie and the Department of the Hautes Alpes.  To the audible relief of our little car, we begin the long descent towards the Mediterranean.

Next is the Col de Lautaret, home to an alpine garden with over 2000 mountain plants from around the world.

The Route des Grands Alps never ceases to surprise! Crossing the summit of the Col we pass a man and woman continuing the pilgrim tradition of crossing the Alps on foot with a fully laden donkey.

At Col de Izoard the scenery changes.

The brooding snow-capped mountains give way to honey-coloured rocky outcrops that sit like rows of broken teeth. The pines give way to more stately larch and cedar. The air is softer and the rock glows in the golden sunlight. The winding hairpin bends are dotted with groups of adrenaline fuelled cyclists that fly past us at the speed of light.

The South of France

It’s from this point onwards you really begin to feel you’re in the South of France.

Below us lies Barcelonette, a strategic trading and administrative centre since Roman times.  It’s elegant Belle Epoque villas give it a more sophisticated air than its neighbours. Clustered around the market square are small bars and restaurants that serve excellent ‘plats du jour’ with a southern twist.

What else, we wondered, does this incredible road still have to show us?

Next on the route is the Col de Cayolle, part of the Alpes Maritime. Most of this road has been challenging with its precipitous drops, its steep winding climbs and its eagle nest views. The Col de Cayolle is something else. Petrifying would be the word.

The single track road runs for 29 km alongside the river Var. There are ominous signs warning of rockfalls and the road ahead is scattered with small rocks as we edge our way along.

Then suddenly, looming in the distance, a nightmare appears: a large motorhome. There’s no room to pass and nowhere to turn  around. The only solution is a slow reverse around the hairpin bends. What fun! I’m so glad we decided to turn down that glass of wine at lunchtime.

But, it’s spectacular and one of the most unforgettable stretches of the whole route.

With our little car breathing another sigh of relief, we drive on through the striking red rocks of The Gorges de Dalius. At every stage of the journey the geology has changed: from the ancient sedimentary rock of the Alps, to retreating glaciers, to the rolling black lava north of Entraunes. A geography teacher’s dream.

The final stages of the Route take us through tunnels carved into the rock. We cruise over the Col St Martin and on towards the impressive hairpin bends of the Col de Turini.

The road continues twisting and winding its way down between the soaring peaks. Ancient olive groves cascade down the hillsides overlooked by hilltop towns and villages. Soon we reach the picturesque medieval town of Sospel, famed for its cathedral and the old toll bridge that straddles the river.

There’s a real sense of leaving the mountain behind. The cols become gentler and less challenging. Bright yellow flowers of laburnum trees line the banks and overshadow the road.

Then, through the trees and in the far distance, you catch your first glimpse of the shimmering Mediterranean.

Magnificent Menton

And suddenly, there is Menton, with its azure skies, swaying palm trees, ochre facades and the painted houses of the old town. It’s a riot of Riviera colour after the cool silence of the high Alps.

Now it’s time to reward ourselves with a glass of wine on the promenade at sunset. The Mediterranean gently lapping at our feet. Bliss.

If You’re Planning the Drive

Best Time to travel

We travelled in mid-June, just after the highest passes had been cleared of snow. The contrast between the cool Alpine air and the warm Mediterranean light made it a perfect time to experience the full route.

Watch the Weather 

Mountain weather changes quickly, and even in summer some sections can close unexpectedly, so always check conditions before setting off.

Allow Time to Linger 

Although we completed it in two days, allowing four or five gives you time to linger in villages, take detours, and full enjoy the drama of the journey.

If you do just one road trip in your life,

make it this one.

Interactive Map of the Route des Grandes Alpes

The post Take the High Road: A sensational Alpine route to the South of France appeared first on Tales from the Balcony.

Maybe here in the beautiful Haute Savoie.

Yes, the circus is coming to town and the Alps are buzzing with excitement

The 2026 Tour de France runs from 4-26 July and starts with a dramatic Grand Départ in Barcelona, before sweeping back to France and finishing in Paris.

The official route is 3,333 km over 21 stages.

It includes legendary Alpine giants such as Alpe d’Huez and the Col du Galibier, the highest point (“roof”) of the Tour at 2,642 m.  It’s without a doubt one of the world’s toughest endurance races.

With 23 teams this year and eight cyclists in each team, 184 riders in total, the atmosphere on the mountain roads and lakeside stretches will be even more electric.

Each year millions of people line the route of the Tour de France to experience the exhilaration and sheer razzmatazz of this extraordinary event.

Not only are there the 184 cyclists, but there are also over 4 500 support and technical staff accompanying the race.

The Tour returns to my corner of Lake Geneva

This year the Tour de France travels from Barcelona through the Pyrenees, the Alps and finally to Paris – but what caught my eye was Stage 16, when the riders race along the lakeside road between Évian and Thonon, a road familiar to anyone who knows this corner of France.

Stage 16 Evian – Thonon is scheduled for Tuesday, 21 July 2026

The day before, Monday 20th July, is the Tour’s rest day in the Haute Savoie. By the time Tuesday arrives the whole area will be buzzing. There’ll be team buses and support cars galore, roads might already have restrictions and camper vans will be parked up everywhere.

The cafes and bars in each town and village in the Haute Savoie will be full of lively discussions about who’ll wear the yellow jersey this year.

By Tuesday, 21 July, after the rest day, the lakeside road between Évian and Thonon will hum with anticipation as the riders set off one by one against the clock.

Plan to arrive on Monday evening if you want the best roadside spots!

Other beautiful route highlights

This year’s route is wonderfully mountainous and has been described as a crescendo route, building drama towards the Alps and Paris. Worth watching are:

•  the Pyrenees in week one
• Gavarnie-Gedre summit finish
• Plateau de Solaison (first time)
• Alpe d’Huez twice
• final Paris finish

The Razzmatazz

Preceding each stage of the race is the ‘not to be missed’ Caravane.  You’ll hear the Caravane arriving long before you see it. With it’s fanfare of popular summer hits, played at full blast, it’s a 20 km long procession of over 160 sponsors’ floats and cars.

The official Tour describes it as the “Tour and it’s partners” putting on a two-hour show before the riders.

To add to the Carnival atmosphere the sponsors throw around 16 million freebies, from keyrings and caps to sauce sachets, into the waiting crowds. The time it takes to pass the crowds is in stark contrast to the blur of the peloton a couple of hours later.

It’s all one giant party.

People sit for hours in stripey deckchairs beside the road, children wait excitedly with bags to fill with goodies. Helicopters swirl overhead filming the procession of giant product and sponsors vehicles.

In the distance you can hear the roar of the crowd as the riders appear and ….whooosh….they’ve gone in the blink of an eye.

Who’s Who

Even if you’re not a cycling devotee, it helps to know who the stars of the show are. It can be difficult to work out who’s in the overall lead and who’s  won each individual stage of the race.

Tour de France Prize 2026

The Tour ends triumphantly in Paris on July 26th 2026, after 21 days of gruelling cycling. On the final leg, the cyclists head up the crowd-filled Champs Elysées to the Arc de Triomphe where the overall winner is crowned champion.

A total of €2.3 million in prize money is divided among all cyclists in the various categories. For all the glamour, the yellow jersey winner receives €500,000 euros – usually shared among teammates, mechanics and support staff, which feels quite fitting as it’s without doubt a team effort.

Each stage winner takes home €11,000, the green jersey winner €25,000, polka dot €25,000 and the white jersey €20,000.

Of course, the real winners are the vast crowds that turn out to watch the theatre of it all – the caravan, the helicopters, the flags and the sudden flash of colour as 184 riders sweep past.

Where can I see the Tour?

Yes you could sit at home and watch it all on TV from the comfort of your sofa. But where’s the fun in that? Or you could plan ahead a little.

Check the official website of the Tour de France 2026 and the local tourist office websites.  They’ll tell you the exact route of each of the 21 stages, the starting and finishing times, and also the times of the local road closures.

Top Tips for Watching the Tour de France

• To get the best out of your day you’ll need to do a little homework.
• Check the official Tour de France website in late May for detailed maps of the route.
• You can also find all information you need in the detailed ‘2026 Tour de France Official Programme and Race Guide’  which is available to pre-order.
• While spectators tend to line almost the whole route, you’ll see more of the cyclists on uphill mountainous stretches. They tend to cycle more slowly and you’ll see more of them as they come toward you.
• Arrive early.  The Gendarmes close the roads early, often a couple of hours before the Caravane arrives, so it can be difficult to get to where you want to be.  You can find the times of road closures on the local tourist office websites.
• Take a fold-up stool or light portable chair with you, you could be standing for several hours otherwise.
• Remember to take a packed lunch and plenty of snacks and drinks.  French restaurants are fairly strict and only tend to open from 12 noon – 2 pm. You may not want to lose your viewing spot to look for food.
• Pack a sun hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, camera, binoculars, and maybe a light raincoat or poncho. The weather in the mountains can be a bit unpredictable.
• Check the weather forecast before you leave home

Oh, and don’t whatever you do, forget to take your goody bag. You never know when 26 sauce sachets and a novelty hat will come in handy.

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A guide to life from above Lake Geneva, local walks, seasonal traditions, villages, mountain adventures
and the stories that make my favourite corners of France unforgettable.

It’s been a little while.

Not because I’ve run out of places to write about – just the opposite. Life’s just shifted direction slightly. I’m still drawn to the same places. Lake Geneva, The Alps and beyond – and probably always will be.

I’m writing from Scotland now. Different light, different landscape… but I haven’t gone anywhere, really.

Why Scotland?  After living in Thollon les Mémises above Lake Geneva for several years, where Tales from the Balcony first began, I moved back to Scotland for family reasons.

I may have decamped, but this idyllic corner of France still feels like home, and I’d love to continue sharing its stories with you.

I’ll tell you more about favourite places, daily life and the changing moods of the lake and the mountains. I’ll also take you beyond the borders to exciting new places that are easily accessible from Thollon, such as Lausanne, the South of France or Italy.

Think of it like opening a treasure box, you never quite know what you might find.

So, whether you’re a first-time visitor, a seasoned traveller or a second homeowner, come travelling with me around one of the most beautiful parts of the world.

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Everyone’s heard of Geneva. Famous for its iconic fountain, home of the Red Cross and countless other international organisations, Geneva is one of the world’s most cosmopolitan, and expensive cities.

But, there are two sides to every story.

While the city of Geneva dabbles its toes in the waters at the western end of the lake the opposite end of the lake reaches out towards the soaring peaks of the French and Swiss Alps.

One of the largest inland lakes in Western Europe, Lake Geneva (or Lac Léman in French)  stretches for 73 km and covers an area of 580 km².

Peppering the northern shores are numerous small picturesque Swiss towns. Rolling hills and lush vineyards sweep gently down to the water’s edge.

On the southern side of the lake lies the French department of the Haute Savoie. Its magnificent snow-capped mountains offer breathtaking views and endless adventure.

A Natural Border

Lake Geneva forms a natural border between France and Switzerland. The borderline runs along the middle of this croissant-shaped lake for most of its length.

The Swiss side of the lake can be eye-wateringly expensive.

The Haute Savoie, however, on the southern French side, is considerably cheaper, but no less beautiful. Its lakeside and alpine villages offer a variety of inexpensive accommodation in both winter and summer.

Discover the shores of Lake Geneva

Here in the Haute Savoie, you can still enjoy the stunning scenery, the fabulous food, and the art de vivre of lakeside living, but at a fraction of the prices in Switzerland.

Stretching from the vibrant city of Geneva all the way to Mont Blanc, you can explore the medieval cobbled streets of Yvoire.

Why not take the waters at the chic spa town of Évian-les-Bains?

Play on the family-friendly ski slopes of Thollon les Mémises or tackle the more challenging runs in the Portes du Soleil from Châtel or Abondance.

Take a trip on the lake to wonder at the tumbling rock face in Meillerie.

Splash out and visit Switzerland, sampling the wines of Lavaux. Walk in the footsteps of Byron at Chateau Chillon.

Into the wild blue yonder

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A Tale from my Thollon Balcony

Home is where the heart is in Thollon

In the daytime, we drank coffee with friends on the balcony. We watched the buzzards as they cruised the thermals way above our heads. We counted the small white boats that crisscrossed the lake for business and pleasure.

A winter wonderland in Thollon

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I’d love to tell you how I plunged into the lake in a squeaky rubber suit and snorkelled my way to the bottom on a voyage of discovery.

But despite my love of sailing, I have a strong aversion to deep, dark, ice-cold water.

And besides….you never quite know what might be down there.

Luckily, others are less hesitant. So if, like me, you’re curious about what lies beneath the surface of Lake Geneva,  let’s find out.

How big are we talking?

But before we go any further, it helps to understand just how vast this lake really is.

Stretching over 73 km in length and 14 km across at its widest point, Lake Geneva holds an almost unimaginable volume of water – around 89 trillion litres.

And then there’s the depth.

At its deepest point, the lake plunges to around 310 metres.  To put that into perspective, imagine stacking around 70 double-decker London buses on top of each other.

A sinking boat would take roughly two and a half minutes to reach the bottom….dropping at around 7km/hr.

That’s deep.

Fed by the Rhône in the east, it’s said that a single drop of water can take up to 11 years to travel from one end of the lake to the other at Geneva.

Please don’t ask me who took the time to measure that.

This is no ordinary lake – and we’ve only just scratched the surface. From the balcony in Thollon, the lake looks calm enough…

The perils of the deep

The lake itself was formed over 150,000 years ago, as the Rhone Glacier retreated – and over the centuries, it’s seen more than its share of tragedy.

Sudden winds, poor visibility, and heavily laden vessels have all played their part. Even on calm days, the lake can be deceptive.

Over time, accidents, misjudgements, and bad weather have left their mark – quietly accumulating on the lakebed below.

And some of those stories still lie deep beneath the surface, waiting to be discovered.

The water, like a witch’s oils,

Burnt green, and blue and white

Samuel Taylor Coleridge – The Rime of the Ancient Mariner

With the development of underwater exploration, it’s now possible to catch a glimpse of some of the more recent objects resting on the lakebed.

So, what’s at the bottom?

Ammunition

For a start, there’s something less romantic than sunken yachts on the lakebed.

Around 1,500 tonnes of live ammunition were dumped here by the Swiss between the 1940s and 1960s. Much of it lies in a relatively small area – roughly 10 square kilometres – at depths of around 50 metres, towards the shallower Geneva end of the lake.

In recent years, divers have identified shells and bombs of various kinds resting quietly on the lakebed.

And that’s only part of the story.

The SS Rhône

One of the saddest wrecks has to be the steamship, the SS Rhône.

On 28 November 1883, the Rhône was travelling from Evian to Lausanne. On the opposite side of the lake, a smaller vessel – the Cygne – had set off from Vevey towards Thonon via Evian.

The weather was so wild that the Captain of the Cygne almost didn’t sail. Some passengers chose not to board.

In the end, he set off anyway, heading directly to Thonon. But halfway across the lake, the weather eased, and he altered course towards Evian as originally planned.

According to records,  in the heavy winds the Cygne veered off course – and struck the larger Rhône which was following its usual route across the lake.

The result was devastating.

Fourteen lives were lost.

Today, the wreck of the SS Rhône lies at a depth of around 300 metres between Evian and Lausanne – hidden far below the surface of an otherwise peaceful lake.

The SS Hirondelle

The Rhône is not the only story the lake holds.

Heavily laden with 350 passengers, many returning from market day in Vevey to Clarens or Montreux, the Hirondelle sank in a shallower part of the lake near Peilz.

Sailing close to the shoreline, the Hirondelle encountered a small boat approaching from the opposite direction.

Hesitating, the helmsman attempted to steer the steamer between the bank and the smaller vessel – but instead struck the rocks lining the shore.

Passengers scrambled ashore or onto the other boat and, remarkably, no lives were lost.

In the rush to abandon the stricken vessel, little was left behind.   Furniture, carpets, tables, and mirrors were stripped from the boat – along with a barrel of wine, a large ham, and even the captain’s binoculars.

A lucky day for some.

Of the four steamships that lie at the bottom of the lake, the SS Hirondelle is the most accessible to experienced divers.

Another vessel lies much deeper. The hull of the redundant SS Aigle II/Simplon was  deliberately scuttled  in 1935 and now rests in the deepest, darkest part of the lake.

Steam yachts

The SY Nemo, (with ‘SY’ standing for Steam Yacht) sank in 1875, having arrived on Lake Geneva from England only a year before.

Several wealthy individuals living along the shoreline of Lake Geneva – or Lac Léman – owned private steam yachts. A dashing combination of sail and steam, they were fitted out with velvet seats, polished brass, mirrors, and burnished wood: the height of luxury at the time.

Here’s a challenge for you.

At one point, the Swiss underwater exploration site www.sub-rec.ch. was offering a reward of 500 euros for help tracing the UK shipbuilder of the SY Nemo.

Whether or not it’s still unclaimed, it remains a rather tempting mystery.

Railway carriages

And then, improbably – railway carriages, lost overboard during a storm in 1859. Their rusting bones can still be found on the lakebed towards Le Bouveret.

Airplanes

You might expect to find wartime aircraft here – but surprisingly, there’s little evidence of planes from the Second World War.

What has been found, however, are remains of a De Havilland Vampire from 1951 along with several civilian  aircraft.

There’s even a photo of a 1920s-30s bi-plane – wrecked, but not sunk – at Ouchy.

Other smaller boats

In addition to the larger steamers, there are countless smaller boats too – casualties of storms, accidents, and forgotten summers. You can find underwater photographs of several small  boats on the www.sub-rec.ch site.

You can also find more details on the official site of the Register of the underwater wrecks of Switzerland

Our own wreck

There’s a dinghy, similar to a Wayfarer, permanently submerged under our small boat in the local marina. Even the prospect of claiming salvage rights hasn’t tempted me down there yet.

On a clear day, however, you can scare the living daylights out of your children with stories of the Black Pearl,  from Pirates of the Caribbean, rising from the deep.

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