Some roads are just a way to get from A to B
The Route des Grandes Alpes is different: here, the road itself is the destination.
Snaking its way through rocky gorges and across ice-blue rivers, winding over snow-covered peaks, and meandering gently through lush, flower-strewn meadows.
The Route crosses 17 mountain passes, visits some of the most beautiful stone-built villages in France, and finally descends towards the shimmering Mediterranean at Menton.
What audacity it has taken to conceive it, what temerity to undertake it, and what genius to complete it!
French President, Albert Lebrun, 1938
The idea of a Route des Grandes Alpes was conceived in 1903 by the Touring Club de France, a social club devoted to promoting tourism and travel. Interrupted by the First World War, the road wasn’t fully opened until 1937.
The journey unfolds in four glorious stages, beginning on the shores of Lake Geneva before climbing through the high Alps and eventually descending towards the warmth of Menton and the Cote d’Azur.
From Lake Geneva to the Alps
Beginning in Thonon, the Route des Grandes Alpes climbs alongside the rushing waters of the River Dranse, heading up towards the Valley d’Abondance. In the flower strewn Alpine meadows the Abondance cows, source of the valley’s famous rich, nutty cheese, lift their heads to watch us pass.
Continuing, we pass the Gorges du Diable, the Devil’s Gorge. The sculpted rockface and the icy river running 50 metres below are the result of thousands of years of glacial erosion.
We pass the well-known ski resorts of Morzine and Les Gets. The skiers left weeks ago but soon the hikers will arrive to reawaken these sleepy mountain resorts.
On we roll to Taninges. Sitting in the roadside yard of the local brocante in Taninges are dozens of vintage chairlifts and ski gondolas. All looking for a new home. What better souvenir of the Alps!
Beyond Taninges the road climbs through the rolling meadows of Le Reposoir, where a Carmelite Monastery nestles against a backdrop of jagged snow-capped mountains. Quaint wooden chalets, the constant clanking of cowbells and the pure crisp mountain air add to the sense of freedom and exhilaration.
Into the High Alps
On the terrace of the café at the Col des Aravis, a nimble woman in her mid-70s slips into a seat next to me. Fully clad in racing lycra she’s just completed the 2000 metre cycle to the top.
I wheeze my way through lunch and a delicious Myrtle Tart, and amble back to the car, blaming my lack of fitness on the lack of lycra… obviously.
In the little town of Flumet, you can have lunch on one of the terraces hanging precariously above the torrent. All accompanied by the sound of water as it surges down the gorge.
From Flumet the road begins its serious climb towards Val d’Isere, continuing ever higher to the Col de L’Iseran. It certainly tests the resilience of our ancient little car. At 2770 metres this is the highest point of the journey.
The panoramic views of the snow-capped mountains are spectacular. This windswept pass is only open in the summer months, and even then, it’s always bitterly cold. Pack an extra jumper or two so you can step out onto the top of the world and let the wind blow the cobwebs away.
Often featured in the Tour de France, this stretch of road is painted with colourful slogans, designed to be visible by drones or helicopters during the race.
Clumps of vintage car enthusiasts grind their way up these passes on their way to the Cote d’Azur, adding a touch of old Riviera glamour to the journey.
The Wild Heart of the Route
Beyond the high pass the road enters the vast emptiness of the Haute Maurienne. The ebb and flow of ice over the millennia has defined the valleys and mountain ranges here, and the villages too. The rocky tails of retreating glaciers sit like exclamation marks in the history of these valleys.
A real highlight here is Bonneval-sur-Arc, one of France’s most beautiful villages. Its stone houses, slate roofs and narrow alleyways seem almost untouched by time. In the harsh winters of the 1960’s the village was completely cut off for weeks and baguettes were airlifted in by helicopter.
In the Footsteps of Hannibal and Napoleon
From here the road snakes on through Bessans and Lanslevilard and begins its steep climb to the Col du Mont Cenis, 2084 m. This pass has been a major trading route connecting the Savoie and Italy since the Middle Ages.
Legend has it that this is where Hannibal and his elephants crossed the Alps on his way from Africa to Italy. There’s a monument to this staggering achievement by the roadside. It was Napoleon however, who built the road that crosses the pass in 1806 to move his troops more effectively.
This is a popular stretch of road for cyclists and motorbikes alike.
Across the High Passes
The 70 km downhill stretch to the foot of the Col de Telegraph passes through some of the Route’s most breath taking scenery. Here you can soak in the magnificence of the snow-capped mountains, marvel at the wild irises that grow at the side of the road and watch buzzards circling lazily overhead.
Nearby Valloire, with its beautiful stone houses, made us determined to return in winter.
Ahead lies one of the great legends of Alpine roads: the Col du Galibier. At 2,642 metres, this windswept pass forms one of the most gruelling stretches of the Tour de France. Standing beside the monument to Henri Desgrange it’s impossible not to be overawed by man’s achievements
The Long Descent to the Riviera
The Col de Galibier marks the boundary between the Savoie and the Department of the Hautes Alpes. To the audible relief of our little car, we begin the long descent towards the Mediterranean.
Next is the Col de Lautaret, home to an alpine garden with over 2000 mountain plants from around the world.
The Route des Grands Alps never ceases to surprise! Crossing the summit of the Col we pass a man and woman continuing the pilgrim tradition of crossing the Alps on foot with a fully laden donkey.
At Col de Izoard the scenery changes.
The brooding snow-capped mountains give way to honey-coloured rocky outcrops that sit like rows of broken teeth. The pines give way to more stately larch and cedar. The air is softer and the rock glows in the golden sunlight. The winding hairpin bends are dotted with groups of adrenaline fuelled cyclists that fly past us at the speed of light.
The South of France
It’s from this point onwards you really begin to feel you’re in the South of France.
Below us lies Barcelonette, a strategic trading and administrative centre since Roman times. It’s elegant Belle Epoque villas give it a more sophisticated air than its neighbours. Clustered around the market square are small bars and restaurants that serve excellent ‘plats du jour’ with a southern twist.
What else, we wondered, does this incredible road still have to show us?
Next on the route is the Col de Cayolle, part of the Alpes Maritime. Most of this road has been challenging with its precipitous drops, its steep winding climbs and its eagle nest views. The Col de Cayolle is something else. Petrifying would be the word.
The single track road runs for 29 km alongside the river Var. There are ominous signs warning of rockfalls and the road ahead is scattered with small rocks as we edge our way along.
Then suddenly, looming in the distance, a nightmare appears: a large motorhome. There’s no room to pass and nowhere to turn around. The only solution is a slow reverse around the hairpin bends. What fun! I’m so glad we decided to turn down that glass of wine at lunchtime.
But, it’s spectacular and one of the most unforgettable stretches of the whole route.
With our little car breathing another sigh of relief, we drive on through the striking red rocks of The Gorges de Dalius. At every stage of the journey the geology has changed: from the ancient sedimentary rock of the Alps, to retreating glaciers, to the rolling black lava north of Entraunes. A geography teacher’s dream.
The final stages of the Route take us through tunnels carved into the rock. We cruise over the Col St Martin and on towards the impressive hairpin bends of the Col de Turini.
The road continues twisting and winding its way down between the soaring peaks. Ancient olive groves cascade down the hillsides overlooked by hilltop towns and villages. Soon we reach the picturesque medieval town of Sospel, famed for its cathedral and the old toll bridge that straddles the river.
There’s a real sense of leaving the mountain behind. The cols become gentler and less challenging. Bright yellow flowers of laburnum trees line the banks and overshadow the road.
Then, through the trees and in the far distance, you catch your first glimpse of the shimmering Mediterranean.
Magnificent Menton
And suddenly, there is Menton, with its azure skies, swaying palm trees, ochre facades and the painted houses of the old town. It’s a riot of Riviera colour after the cool silence of the high Alps.
Now it’s time to reward ourselves with a glass of wine on the promenade at sunset. The Mediterranean gently lapping at our feet. Bliss.
If You’re Planning the Drive
Best Time to travel
We travelled in mid-June, just after the highest passes had been cleared of snow. The contrast between the cool Alpine air and the warm Mediterranean light made it a perfect time to experience the full route.
Watch the Weather
Mountain weather changes quickly, and even in summer some sections can close unexpectedly, so always check conditions before setting off.
Allow Time to Linger
Although we completed it in two days, allowing four or five gives you time to linger in villages, take detours, and full enjoy the drama of the journey.
If you do just one road trip in your life,
make it this one.
Great blog Lyndsay, lovely trip!
Thank you 💙