Autumn is the perfect time of year to explore the vineyards of Lavaux. Sun-drenched terraces are groaning beneath the weight of fat golden grapes waiting for harvest.
The south-facing slopes of Lake Geneva, between Lausanne and Montreux, are dotted with small medieval villages. At this time of year, with the wine harvest in full swing, the narrow village streets are buzzing with activity. You can easily spot the wine merchants and winegrower houses, by the intricate wrought iron signs hanging outside.
Wine is sunlight, held together by water
A Stairway to Heaven
Stretching for 30 km between Lausanne and Montreux, the undulating south-facing slopes on the north shore of Lake Geneva are home to some of the steepest vineyards in the world.
It may be hard to believe, but there are said to be over 10,000 terraces in Lavaux, on 40 levels, all held in place by 400 km of white stone walls. Little wonder then that Lavaux has been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1973.
The toast of the Roman Empire
The story has it that the vineyards were first established here by the Romans. Wine was considered essential to daily life in Rome and was drunk by both men and women, from slaves to the aristocracy.
With over 180 million litres being produced in ancient Italy each year there’s no doubt that the Romans were experts in viticulture. As the Romans expanded across Europe, they took their vines with them, establishing vineyards around their settlements and trading routes.
Home is where the wine is
Where the Romans left off, however, with the fall of the Empire, the religious orders of the day took over. In Lavaux, Cistercian and Benedictine monks began to cultivate the slopes extensively. Many of the terraces still found today on these sun-baked slopes date back to the 11th century.
What makes Lavaux so special?
The mild climate of the Swiss Riviera aided by the reflected sun from the surface of Lake Geneva/Lac Léman combined with the heat of the medieval stone walls provide ideal conditions to produce both white and red wines. In fact, this relatively small area accounts for nearly a quarter of all Swiss wine.
Wine is bottled poetry
Everyday traffic is banned from the small winding roads that run through the Lavaux vineyards so it’s the perfect place to stroll from village to village, 14 in all. You can admire the spectacular views of the lake and the mountains that dominate the south and eastern shores, or take a picnic and enjoy the vibrant sunsets, with a glass of wine of course…
From Grape to Wine
Cultivation of the vines that cling to these steep slopes is challenging. Harvesting grapes on such vertiginous terrain requires plenty of imagination. Some vineyards bring the grapes from the slopes using miniature cog railways which snake their way gently down the hillsides. Others use boxes suspended on cables like miniature rudimentary ski-lifts.
The boxes of white Chasselas or dark ruby coloured Pinot Noir and Gamay grapes are taken from the vineyards on small trucks to the nearby wineries. They’re poured by chute into the shadowy depths of deep cellars or emptied into converted garages to be pressed ready for fermentation, and later bottled and stored.
Life is too short to drink bad wine
What to drink?
Lavaux is home to 460 producers of fine wines. Most Swiss wine is consumed in Switzerland itself. You might not be familiar with even some of the more famous names.
The most famous of the vineyards in Lavaux is the vast domain of Dézaley in the commune of Puidoux. Spread over 54 hectares (133 acres) Dézaley also has the steepest slopes, some with gradients of 90%.
The star of Dézaley is the Dézaley Grand Cru AOC, a fresh, fruity white wine produced from the Chasselas grape. Close your eyes and imagine the smell of almonds and fresh toast, with a hint of tea and honey and you’ve got it!
The other Grand Cru of Lavaux is Calamin which comes from the slopes above the pretty lakeside village of Cully. Like Dézaley, Calamin wines are made with the Chasselas grape which, according to the experts on wine-searcher.com, makes the perfect accompaniment to cheese fondue, a dream made in heaven. Who are we to argue?
Wine Tastings
At the Lavaux Vinorama near the lakeside village of Rivaz there are over 300 local wines to sample, ranging from light white wines to robust, elegant reds all from the surrounding Lavaux vineyards. Here you can combine a comprehensive wine tasting along with a guided tour of the vineyards. You can also visit the cellars of some of the local wine producers.
Many wine producers open their cellars to visitors and offer tastings of not only the wine they produce but other local specialties too. Some also offer guided walks through the vineyards where you can learn about how the grapes are grown and harvested.
There’s still time in October to catch one of the many fascinating guided tours, see here for details
Buying Swiss Wine
Never seen Swiss wine for sale in your local supermarket? That’s because only 1% of the wine produced in Switzerland is exported.
Much of the wine, particularly from the larger vineyards, is sold by auction at the beginning of December but there are wine tastings everywhere. In all the villages, the wooden doors of small wine merchants lie open welcoming the merely curious as well as potential customers who fill up their cars by the box load.
Getting there
The Lavaux vineyards are easy to get to by train, car or ferry.
You can get to the Lavaux vineyards by train from Lausanne or Montreux costing around CHF 4 – 7. The trains stop in several of the quaint Lavaux villages such as Pully, Lutry, Villette, Cully, Epesses, Rivaz, and St Saphorin.
You can also get to Lavaux on the CGN ferries. On the lake’s north shore, the ferries stop at Lausanne, Lutry, Cully, Rivaz, and Vevey. If you are using the ferries in the summer months and you prefer not to walk, you can link up with the Lavaux Express and Lavaux Panoramic scenic “trains” which take visitors on guided tours around the Lavaux vineyards.
If you travel by car, remember that many of the roads among the vines are closed to all but viticultural traffic. There is some limited parking available on the outskirts of the villages. Pay attention to time limits as parking restrictions are well-policed!
What else
Even if wine is not your thing, Lavaux is well worth the visit. There are over 50 different hiking trails that meander across the vineyards from village to village.
My top tip is to start early in the day, wear a hat, and don’t forget your sunscreen. The heat radiating from the stone walls and the sun reflected off the lake can be really intense. In the height of summer, it’s often too hot to walk far. We caught the local bus back to our starting point. It’s a great excuse to cool down with a sparkling glass of chilled white wine.
Happiness is a well-stocked wine cabinet, and a closet full of shoes
